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Discussion Starter #1
The shift linkage is very sloppy on my 2010 CR. Not only side to side but up and down. It's the up and down slop that bothers me.

The bushings that are offered are for 2011 and newer models with the round bushings. (the 2010 has hex bushings).

I checked a new bike in the show room and it was nice and tight.

What have other owners of the 2010 cross roads done to solve this problem?

Thanks,

Richie
 

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witchdoctor has them. Think he has a how to video too
 

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the WD bushings help alot, but there is still some slop in the shifter side.
 

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This 2010 XR owner has not done the bushing thing, but here is what he has done to improve shifting....
I lowered the lever so that when I slip my boot under it, it takes up the slack. Then I preload the shifter for smoother and quieter shifts. I find the slop a non issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This 2010 XR owner has not done the bushing thing, but here is what he has done to improve shifting....
I lowered the lever so that when I slip my boot under it, it takes up the slack. Then I preload the shifter for smoother and quieter shifts. I find the slop a non issue.
Thanks, That is exactly what I am doing now.

I am hoping to remove the slack from the linkage.
 

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Like Witchdoctor said. Need a new shift pedal from 2011 or newer, then put the Witchdoctor brass bushings in. I had to do that on my 2010 XC.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Like Witchdoctor said. Need a new shift pedal from 2011 or newer, then put the Witchdoctor brass bushings in. I had to do that on my 2010 XC.
Thank you for the information.

Did you get the replacement shift pedal from Witchdoctor or OEM?

Rich
 

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Thank you for the information.

Did you get the replacement shift pedal from Witchdoctor or OEM?

Rich
Dealer, but maybe Witchdoctor has them
 

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This 2010 XR owner has not done the bushing thing, but here is what he has done to improve shifting....
I lowered the lever so that when I slip my boot under it, it takes up the slack. Then I preload the shifter for smoother and quieter shifts. I find the slop a non issue.
I have the same problem with my 2010 XC, it too has the hex shaft internal that wears @RICZ said to drill and roll pin it,
I drilled mine, tapped a thead into it and threaded a small allen bolt in with red loctite, yet IT STILL COMES LOOSE and Im back to a very sloppy shifter.
Theres a 2013 lever on ebay here but I reckon Id also need the pivot pin that it moves on as well at the slotted part it mounts to that slides into the footboard plate.
Anyone here replaced the lot with later parts?...what did you do and what exactly did you use?...Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have the same problem with my 2010 XC, it too has the hex shaft internal that wears @RICZ said to drill and roll pin it,
I drilled mine, tapped a thead into it and threaded a small allen bolt in with red loctite, yet IT STILL COMES LOOSE and Im back to a very sloppy shifter.
Theres a 2013 lever on ebay here but I reckon Id also need the pivot pin that it moves on as well at the slotted part it mounts to that slides into the footboard plate.
Anyone here replaced the lot with later parts?...what did you do and what exactly did you use?...Thanks.
As you know, the 2010 cross bikes have the hex shift shaft. All newer bikes have the round shaft. I don't think you can put a replacement shiftier with a round hole on a hex shaft.

I purchased a new chromed, shift peddle for my 2010 crossroads several years ago. Looks beautiful but it is made of aluminum as was the original peddle. The shift shaft is made of steel and will deform the softer aluminum hex hole in any aluminum peddle in time. My replacement peddle is now as loosie goosie as was the old one that I replaced. I too would like to find a remedy for this problem.
 

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The reason I used a 1/8" tension or roll pin to go through the lever and the shaft it's on, is I knew it could eventually loosen. When that happens, I drill and insert the next size up pin and it's tight again.
 

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ah ok so you drilled right through the steel shaft as well...
I only drilled and tapped the aluminium lever and fitted an allen bolt.
Probably pointless drilling right through if its gonna loosen too cos eventually gonna run out of meat on it.
Id like to replace the whole shebang with a later one.
 

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Did that 1/8" tension pin thing a long time ago and its still tight. It don't pound the shifter like some do, I like to be smooth. Learned that when flying.
 

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ok then, an option is to drill it right through...
Surely though its possible to fit a later shift mechanism .
 

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You'd think so. You might need most or all of the floor board assembly, though. Oh yeah, I drilled clear though and the pin is full length.
 

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I dunno mate, I cant see them changing the whole floorboard just to get rid of a problem shifter.
Im hoping the rectangular bit that slots into the floorboard is interchangable.
If it is then everything above and including it is readily available from bike wreckers (if thats what you call em there)
and I can do a permanent fix.
Anyone with a 2010 XC with a few miles on it will welcome a decent shifter surely.
Im keeping my bikes.
 

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The newer style shifter mount will fit into your existing floorboard without a problem. I bought a complete shifter and rod off eBay. Then ordered the mount and bolt from a dealer
 

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ok thanks, thats what I need to do too then
 
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