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2014 Victory Hammer 8 Ball
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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 2014 Hammer 8 Ball a few months back. The bike was cheap but also seems it had been outside for a bit in it's life. It already had aftermarket LED fork signals along with the rear LED. The rear LED had a few LEDs that were not lighting up and the front left signals would stay on solid. There was also a buzzing from the flasher module.
I did some research and someone recommended a flasher module from a Cross Country since they came with LED so I ordered it as a replacement. I also went ahead and ordered new fork signals and a new rear.

Once I got everything in and hooked it all up, I feel there is a different problem or maybe there was a short at some point and fried the ECU. The good news is, the flasher module had the ones that were working, flashing properly. Even when disconnecting the front signals. The current issue I have is all signals work fine except the front left. This is when the key is on but the bike is not running. Same with hazards.
When the bike is running, the right signals turn on for a second then go off but the signal indicator light stays on solid. This is the same behavior with the hazards for the right but the left rear flashes properly.
Now I don't believe my bike has the issue with the reversed polarity in the front right as power only goes through the blue/red wire, not the black.

The left rear signal works fine when the bike is running but nothing comes from the front. I tested the voltage and it doesn't seem anything is going to the wiring in the front left. Now I'm assuming based on the large number of other forum posts that the issue may be the ACM. On my model the ACM is built into the ECU, at least from what my service manual says.
I also tried swapping the fuel pump and signal/horn relay just to make sure there wasn't something weird there but had the same issue.

Needless to say, I figured I would post this issue in here as I have not been able to find an issue just like it. I found a seller on Ebay that somehow has a box full of ECU's for my bike at $100/ea. so went ahead and ordered it. Looking forward to any help or ideas on this as the last thing I want to do is connect the new ECU and run into similar issues.
 

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2014 Victory Hammer 8 Ball
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Discussion Starter #2
Well, new ECU. Same problem when not running. However, pretty sure this great deal of an ECU is faulty since the check engine light is immediately on and it doesn't appear to have any spark. Anyway, back to the old ECU.
I took the front signals off and both rears work when the bike is running. Since it is still summer and the weather is nice, going to continue riding it. Have to remove the tank to send off for repairs on some dents in it when I bought it. So when that is happening, I'll go through the wiring and get this thing figured out. I'll post an update once I come to a conclusion as to the cause.

Also having some fun with some cooling fins having a good amount of corrosion and taking the wet sanding technique to them. Slow going but definitely getting the shine back.
 

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It's disturbing that I am having the same issue with a replacement LED turn signal (left front not working while all the rest are). I assumed it was either a defective LED unit or I somehow broke a wire going into the LED fixture while installing it.
I ordered another set of turn signals (same type) and when I got them I put an Ohm meter on the new set and both read "Open Line"! Can LED's be checked with an Ohm meter? I'm minimally electrically competent so I don't know.
My next step, when the weather clears, is to check to see if there is power at the connector coming from the headlight for the turn signal. If not, I'm in the same boat as you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It's disturbing that I am having the same issue with a replacement LED turn signal (left front not working while all the rest are). I assumed it was either a defective LED unit or I somehow broke a wire going into the LED fixture while installing it.
I ordered another set of turn signals (same type) and when I got them I put an Ohm meter on the new set and both read "Open Line"! Can LED's be checked with an Ohm meter? I'm minimally electrically competent so I don't know.
My next step, when the weather clears, is to check to see if there is power at the connector coming from the headlight for the turn signal. If not, I'm in the same boat as you.
I confirmed that the LED works on the front right, of course when the bike isn't running. I don't believe I checked the other LED when the bike is running but would expect the same result. I'm a little concerned that it wasn't connected correctly from the person who originally installed them so not sure if there is something wrong with it prior to me already. Look forward to what you find out on yours.

Not sure if you can check the LED itself but as long as you are getting the expected signal and voltage output from the bike, it's safe to assume the LED would be the problem if it isn't working. You can run those LED's off a 9 volt battery to test as well if you want to verify it's the signal and not something else.
 

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I would imagine that an LED could be checked for continuity using the resistance (ohm) setting on a multimeter but you will have to connect it in the right "direction". Since it is a diode, it will only allow current to flow in one direction. If you hook it up one way, it will show as infinite resistance/open circuit. If you connect it the opposite way, it should show a low resistance.
 

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Thanks for the tip about using a nine volt battery! The first LED I installed that didn’t work lights up with the nine volt battery connected.
Good news is I can send the second set back for a refund.
Bad news is I have another issue to figure out.
To be continued...
 

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I confirmed that the LED works on the front right, of course when the bike isn't running. I don't believe I checked the other LED when the bike is running but would expect the same result. I'm a little concerned that it wasn't connected correctly from the person who originally installed them so not sure if there is something wrong with it prior to me already. Look forward to what you find out on yours.

Not sure if you can check the LED itself but as long as you are getting the expected signal and voltage output from the bike, it's safe to assume the LED would be the problem if it isn't working. You can run those LED's off a 9 volt battery to test as well if you want to verify it's the signal and not something else.
Did you ever find out what the problem was with your led turn signal?
Mine was as simple as reversing the black and blue wire connections. Now it works fine.
 
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