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Discussion Starter #1
Wait! Should have said ‘oil rebate’. Sorry! :grin

I am really impressed with the efforts that go into producing oil and how we all need to get a good understanding of the importance in choosing what is right for our bikes and when we need to change the oil. I run T6 and trying to run at least 5000 before changing.

The following from...
Motorcycle Oil: What Difference Does it Make? - Motorcycle & Powersports News
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The finished product that goes in a bike is amber or brownish in color, base oils are actually clear, like water. Their quality determines a number of key performance properties, including oxidative stability (the ability to resist chemical breakdown), heat resistance, viscosity retention (the ability to resist thinning) and pour point (fluidity at low temperatures). The goal in manufacturing base oils is a molecularly uniform, pure substance. Why? Because inconsistency and impurities limit performance. Additives in the final motor oil formulation offer specific performance features not provided by base oils, like the ability to resist corrosion that may form when bikes are in storage.

The base oils used in conventional oils are anything but uniform and pure. They are refined from crude oil pumped from within the earth, which is a poor lubricant in and of itself; it’s a thick, messy, foul-smelling raw material teeming with molecules of different weights. Sulfur, paraffin (wax), nitrogen, oxygen and nickel are just some of the molecules in crude harmful to the lubricating process. Paraffin, for example, thickens as the temperature drops, making it more difficult to start your motorcycle on a cold morning and inhibiting the oil’s ability to quickly flow to critical engine parts. It’s no coincidence the majority of engine wear occurs at start up. Impurities cause the oil to oxidize sooner — in layman’s terms, break down — requiring it to be changed. That’s just one reason conventional oils reach the end of their useful service lives sooner than synthetics.
 

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Wait! Should have said ‘oil rebate’. Sorry! :grin

I am really impressed with the efforts that go into producing oil and how we all need to get a good understanding of the importance in choosing what is right for our bikes and when we need to change the oil. I run T6 and trying to run at least 5000 before changing.

The following from...
Motorcycle Oil: What Difference Does it Make? - Motorcycle & Powersports News
______________
The finished product that goes in a bike is amber or brownish in color, base oils are actually clear, like water. Their quality determines a number of key performance properties, including oxidative stability (the ability to resist chemical breakdown), heat resistance, viscosity retention (the ability to resist thinning) and pour point (fluidity at low temperatures). The goal in manufacturing base oils is a molecularly uniform, pure substance. Why? Because inconsistency and impurities limit performance. Additives in the final motor oil formulation offer specific performance features not provided by base oils, like the ability to resist corrosion that may form when bikes are in storage.

The base oils used in conventional oils are anything but uniform and pure. They are refined from crude oil pumped from within the earth, which is a poor lubricant in and of itself; it’s a thick, messy, foul-smelling raw material teeming with molecules of different weights. Sulfur, paraffin (wax), nitrogen, oxygen and nickel are just some of the molecules in crude harmful to the lubricating process. Paraffin, for example, thickens as the temperature drops, making it more difficult to start your motorcycle on a cold morning and inhibiting the oil’s ability to quickly flow to critical engine parts. It’s no coincidence the majority of engine wear occurs at start up. Impurities cause the oil to oxidize sooner — in layman’s terms, break down — requiring it to be changed. That’s just one reason conventional oils reach the end of their useful service lives sooner than synthetics.
WISE GUY! You got me. :smile
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Walmart has Shell T6 2 gallon @ $21. It takes 6 qts in my 04 Vegas.

I live 1/2 mile from wallymart and 1 mile from O'Reillys where I get the wix filter.

Price, convenience, and the time it takes to get the products is a plus and then to get the mileage and performance from this brand is, what I feel, a no-brainer.
 

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I was hoping for another debate!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was hoping for another debate!
Use regular dino motorcycle oil for your bike and change it and filter every 3000 miles and it will last you a long time and perform well.

Use good synth oil and change every 4-5000 miles and it will last you a long time and perform well.

Which is the best option.
 

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Well as dinosaurs are an endangered species and synths are doing much better, I'll choose Penrite real synthetic for Aussie conditions.
 

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From what I've read, synth is not 100% synthetic. But it works!

I don't really see how it could be a total petroleum imitation. It is labeled that way but it's secret is in the additives and the processing.

That is all I know.
What happened to the "Duke of Oil" anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I changed oil today. 5635 miles on this one. I cannot tell a difference between the new and old T6.

I had not planned on this many miles but I have no doubt this oil did not break down. Just a good all around product that works well for these engines.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I changed oil today. 5635 miles on this one. I cannot tell a difference between the new and old T6.

I had not planned on this many miles but I have no doubt this oil did not break down. Just a good all around product that works well for these engines.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
shifts like butter at one mile as it does at 5000.
 

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Mines up to 91,100kms now
Had 14,400 kms 26 mths ago.
 

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I wonder if synthetic oil could be refined into synthetic gasoline?
Hmmmm
 

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Tractor Supply has T6 on sale for $19.99. I picked up one. Besides, it gave me a reason to wander around TS for an hour ;)
 

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gee walmart has same price and I bet with rebate

we need some one close by to take there T6 to Blackstone and get it analized
Blackstone Laboratories
416 East Pettit Avenue
Fort Wayne, IN 46806
 
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