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The Diamond
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I'm running a 280 on a 10.5 Ness Cross Wheel.

A few things to remember.
  1. Grind down the metal bulbs on the ends of the fender frame
  2. relocate the brake line to run under the swingarm
  3. If you keep the belt guard you might have to notch it.

If you are going to lower your bike and just on GP relocate the rear wiring harness. Zip tie it to the left side of the fender frame.
 

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Premium Member
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1,655 Posts
I've seen a 280 on a 8.5"...doesn't look right. There are a few places that sell 10.5" wheels for Victory bikes. Here in mine on a 10.5 before I painted my tins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when you say move the rear harness to the left side of the fender frame, you mean before the cross bar on the fender frame? then the brake light wiring is fine to be in the middle after that?
 

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The Diamond
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4,001 Posts
I moved mine from the tail light back. ALSO, be sure and check the point that the wire loom comes through under the fender under the seat. You will have to remove the tire or fender for this. Sometimes when you zip the loom it bunches at that point and the tire rubs it.

I made a mistake although I don't think it matters. I zip tied my loom to the right side fender frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i bought the Arlen Ness lowering kit put it on and a few rides later i ripped all the wiring out. after rewiring it took the kit off put the stock one back on. if i get the 280 is it safe to put the lowering kit back on and just tighten up the preload on the shock?
 

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The Diamond
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The reason you ripped out the harness is because you didn't move it.

Before putting the airride on I was lowered 1 1/2 with the 280 and never had a problem because I MOVED the wiring harness.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to move the harness.

Setting the preload anytime you lower your bike is advisable.
 
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