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2012 Hammer, first oil changes were done with Victory oil, Now looking at different oils. Have a noticeable "tick" at startup, and transmission seems noisy. Been researching the oil forum, and have not been able to make up my mind. Looking at the Rotella T6 and Mobile 1 oils. I'm seeing the Rotella T6 is available locally as a 5w40. Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, 20w50 is also available. I'm located in central Arkansas, i usually ride in temps from 40 degrees to 100 degrees.

Will the 5w40 oil hold up to the temps?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Amsoil and Golden Spectro have Victory specific oil formulas now. What ever that means....... Difference is Amsoil is a full synthetic and Spectro a semi syn oil. Our site sponser can hook you up as far as Amsoi lis concerned. I use Mobil 1 in my VTX. Good oil for that bike and some here use it in their Vic's with no complaints. If you are looking at changing oil often and want to save $$$ the Rotella is the way to go. 15/40 semi seems to be the preferred blend.

I'm currently using AMSOIL 10/40 with no issues what so ever. Quiet motor and trans. Shifting is good and most of all good oil temps always. I will say that my "Tune" is part of the reason. OK... mostly the reason but if you are going to spend the money on a 106 that I did then don't skimp on the oil. The new 20/40 AMSOIL is formulated for Victory/Indian MC's that have catalytic converters. That's what I would use next.
 

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I have put as many as 7,000 miles on Rotella T-6 with no ill effects. Sent a sample of the 7K oil in to be tested and report came back saying there's 2K left in that oil. There is currently a rebate on T-6, check it out. That just might be your best bang for the buck.
 

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dmckeehan

if you only have 6000 miles on the bike wait till you get 15 thousand before doing any synthetic oil. Your motor is not broken in yet
 

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dmckeehan

if you only have 6000 miles on the bike wait till you get 15 thousand before doing any synthetic oil. Your motor is not broken in yet
That was the wisdom in the olden days, not so now..
Engines are all seated in before you get them...
 

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Just did a oil change with Castrol ActEvo 4T 20-40 semi-synthetic oil. Got it from my local vic dealer for just over $7.00 a quart. MSRP was $8.95, so I snagged 5qts. for right at $40.00.
 

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That was the wisdom in the olden days, not so now..
Engines are all seated in before you get them...
Quoted for truth. Our cylinders are Nikasil plated and require almost no break in to seat the rings. There isn't much to "break in" anymore. Machining and manufacturing tolerances are so advanced that the ideas of the old days no longer apply. 15,000 miles to break in an engine? Seriously? Maybe 500 miles, and I use that number just to through out a nice round number that might be accepted by the masses. Most hi performance cars now days come from the factory filled with synthetic oil.
 

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real synthetic oils

its harder than ever to tell if an oil is a real synthetic group IV + or V oil. most oils labeled "synthetic" are top quality group III mineral oil, thats why a break in period is not necessary. Redline on the other hand is a man made synthetic using group V ester base oil, the best for extreme conditions. lots of choices for sure but using an oil that suits the temperatures you drive in is important. IMO a 20- whatever is not good for colder weather, circulating slowly if it even starts causes undue wear, petroleum oils including group III dino's legally labeled "synthetic" flow slower than real synthetics. the group III "synthetic's" like Amsoil flows a little better because "most" of the wax in the crude oil is removed.
 

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Are you saying Amsoil is group III? I thought it's supposed to be IV.

One thing about a blend of syn is there is no standard of what % the blend is. Thus the term is effectively mere advertising puffery.
 

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just my deductions

i am not a chemist by far but learned a few things about oils + their specs as well as reading between the advertising lines. years ago Amsoil heavily touted PAO base oils, not anymore though. since the 1999 law change most all oil blenders have gone to cheaper but very good group III base oils, legally "synthetic" looking at the viscosity index of the 20-40 compared to the 10-40 indicates that its not a PAO based oil. Amsoil's motorcycle 10-40 + 20-50 "may" still use "some" PAO + ester. that said it being a quality 20-40 with a 20 viscosity spread its more durable with less additives. again compare the TBN-total base numbers of the 20-40 to the 10-40, higher TBN indicates more additives usually for longer drains. 10-40 oils with more spread 30 this time need more fragile viscosity index improvers unless its a man made group IV PAO or group V ester based oil. the 20-40's excellent Noack which is basically burn off, thats why Vic oil is a 20-40 allowing cheaper base oils with decent performance. you got it right that blends-semi synthetic are bogus money makers for the oil blenders. the 20-40 is prolly great until it gets cold, then if you still ride a 10-40 is much better. slower engine cranking is an easy indicator of too thick oil for the temperature. IMO oil formulators "hide" much info to sell at higher profits, unlike Redline that uses the most costly base oil being group V ester + they tell you its in there + price reflects it, being the most expensive to make base oil. IMO blending 2 qts of redline with your regular oil can enhance it, ester oils are polar + cling to metal rather than run off. quality oils can run longer + cleaner + protect our engines, the alternative is cheap oil changed at 2500 miles as it breaks down quickly in the shared engine + tranny configuration
 

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from Lloydz
It may all sound hard but don't worry if you can't follow this to a tee, these motor configurations are forgiving. One item to keep in mind for those that live in colder climates such as I is that the oil temps will take 3-4 times longer to rise in temperature then the cylinders or heads. This is important because the warmer oil will properly lubricate and protect the needed items during the critical warm up process when most just want to hop in and go. We've all seen it, a group of bikes parked outside of a bar or restaurant for a few hours, the owners come out fire up, without delay they take off wide open down the road to show off their stuff. What they don't realize is that the only thing they show is more signs of wear when they engine guy gets a hold of the motor from a shorter then expected life. Hence:
 

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conditions vary

depending on how + where you ride a lower quality aka cheaper oil "may" be all you need. except for degraded shifting its really only a guess whats going on inside your engine. as for the comment on longer warmups in the cold, whats happening to your engine while that too thick for the ambient temperature 20-40 overpriced but cheap Vic semisynthetic petroleum oil is getting warm + thin enough to lubricate properly. the cheap rotella 15-40 a lot of riders choose would be better. everyone would prolly run the best-expensive oil if it were not expensive, but its cheap insurance for the long run + IMO worth it!!!!
 
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