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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 V92C (DAZ). A few weeks ago it was running rough and at one point the engine was bogging down and miss-firing at about 2500 RPMs (60 MPH on highway). I pulled the plugs and they looked a bit gunky so I replaced them. After about a 100 miles it happened again — again on the highway at a constant rate of speed. If I pull the clutch in and rev it up to about 4,000 RPMs it will settle back down.

I'm going to pull the tank and check the Throttle Body and the idle advance cable as it has gone slack since changing the plugs. It almost acts as if it is experiencing a vapor lock, is that possible? Is there anything else I should check, clean or replace while I have the tank and air box off.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Cleaning the throttle body dose wonders, when my TC starts missing I clean the throttle body, change plugs and clean the air filter the miss goes away every time. I've noticed since I started running 87 octane my plugs stay cleaner way longer too.
 

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Check to make sure the tank's vent line is clear-I've seen them get melted or pinched and cause similar issues. Also- there are prefilters in the tanks two outlets that need to be pulled & cleaned. If it's a hiccup/momentary skip while cruising at a steady RPM you need a new TPS. You can get one at any auto part store- GM part #17123852 or AC Delco 213-912 if your a Ford guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update and questions...

I replaced the TPS last season, it should still be good. I have cleaned the throttle body, air filter and plugs. As I had stated above, the advance idle cable is snapped. I noticed that this cable does not spring back to closed when the cable gets slack. In other words if the cable snapped while idle was advanced, it stayed there. This would account for the fouled plugs and dirty TB.

My question is... what is the off position of the idle advance at the Throttle Bod? Where the IA cable attaches to the TB it would appear the "wheel" would spin far beyond the point where the butterflies close. Does the IA cable just open the butterflies or are there other valves/settings opening? If I just rotate it back to till the butterflies close is it disengaged?

I'd like to put it back together and burn out any carbon residue that might have gotten in when cleaning the TB. Run it for a bit then when the new cable comes in tear it down and put in new plugs and the cable.I DO NOT WANT TO DO ANY HARM.
 

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The idle cable only moves the butterflies, overcoming the spring tension of the throttle-in its off position they should be closed. If this cable broke the spring tension on the throttle control should close the butterflies. Does your throttle snap closed when you twist and release the grip? If it does I'd say your OK to ride-if not you have some work to do.I have all the slack adjusted out of my IA cable and use the lever as a cruise control. There's supposed to be 1/8-1/4 inch of free play at the lever according to the manual..
 

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Holy crap that's the dirtiest T.B I've ever seen. I wonder if you may have an injector plugged up or one going bad.
 

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If you haven't ran it yet after cleaning the T.B then I wouldn't worry about anything yet, it will probably run like it did in 99.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
OK after cleaning the TB I reassembled and she fired right up (with the expected pops from the cleaning) and settled in at about 1100 RPM. I did not have the tank seated just right so I put things on hold till tonight.

Tonight she started right up but idled at about 1400 RPMs. I took her out and ran her up and down the highway for a bit (30 mins or so) and the idle speed gradually continued to increase. When I got back home she was idling at about 18 or 1900 RPMs. So.... What next a trip to the shop for a digital wrench session?

I should confess that this was the first time in 3 seasons I've cleaned the TBs and I have a digital wrench tune at the beginning of each. Perhaps the map present in my ECM has the idle up to compensate for the dirty TB.

[URL=http://s459.photobucket.com/albums/qq317/Cracklin_Jeorge/Throttle Body Cleaning/?action=view&current=InitialStartup.mp4][/URL]
 

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There is a little gold idle screw on the left side under the tank just turn it to the left until your idling at around 1000 to 1050 and your set. I'm at work right now if you haven't found it in the next two hours I'll take a pic of mine when I get home and post it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There is a little gold idle screw on the left side under the tank just turn it to the left until your idling at around 1000 to 1050 and your set. I'm at work right now if you haven't found it in the next two hours I'll take a pic of mine when I get home and post it. Good luck.
Thanks Saintdruss13, I will look for that tomorrow. I had read about it in the service manual but it was in reference to the TPS adjustment procedure — turn in 1/16 increments and wait 5 seconds for the ECM to catch up and see where the RPMs are. Not having a FI Diagnostic lamp, and oil temp gauge, and a clear understanding about what I'm doing gave me cause for pause. Will adjusting the idle screw adjust both the air and fuel flow or just the air? This is the first time since I bought it that it doesn't smell like its running rich.
 

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No luck with the pic it's in a tight spot lol Look behind the cheese wedge and up you'll see a gold Phillips head screw my 04 has a silver spring on it not sure about a 99. Once you find it you should be able to fit a screwdriver between the tank and the cheese wedge.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found it. Turned it, just a little bit. Waited 5 seconds and repeated until it settled in at about 900 to 1K RM. Thanks!

A few more things to do, when my parts order arrives and I'll be ready for my fall trip!!!!
 

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950 is your target idle RPM. Lowering your idle may make the idle mixture to rich and cause some driveability issues-you'll just have to test ride it and see. After a dynamic TPS adjustment you can raise but not lower the idle. You can start with a static TPS reset and many times they'll run fine but can usually benefit from some fine tuning. PS- make sure your cables are free and your RPMs don't change when you turn the bars at idle
 

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Discussion Starter #17
950 is your target idle RPM. Lowering your idle may make the idle mixture to rich and cause some driveability issues-you'll just have to test ride it and see. After a dynamic TPS adjustment you can raise but not lower the idle. You can start with a static TPS reset and many times they'll run fine but can usually benefit from some fine tuning. PS- make sure your cables are free and your RPMs don't change when you turn the bars at idle
Thanks ByteN2it, but I'm not sure that what I did last night was either a static or a dynamic TPS adjustment. I did not use a Fuel injector Diagnostic Tool, I simply adjusted the idle screw after the engine had reached temp (assumption based on 10 min warm-up ride) while it was running. I have not taken a test ride yet and truthfully I was worried I was getting in over my head and now I feel as though I have. :confused: Should I take this in for a proper TPS adjustment?
 

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Good luck finding a tech that can fine tune a '99 Victory-you're better off learning and having the ability to tweak it yourself Here's how you set & adjust your TPS settings on an early V92C-

Static TPS Reset:
Jump the B & E pins in the diagnostic plug under your right side cover using small insulated alligator clips. If your looking at the plug with three pins on top - ABC is the top row & D E are the two bottom pins-so jumper the top center pin B, and the bottom right side pin E. So Make sure your idle adjustment lever is completely off & with the key off, place the jumper wire from pin B to pin E. Then, key ON for 30 seconds, key OFF, remove jumper. This is the starting point for further adjustments.

Dynamic TPS Adjustment:
1. Once the bike is warmed up, bring it in to your work area and turn a fan onto the front of the bike to provide cooling.

2. There is a small wiring harness on the computer with 5 male pins in the plug. On the backside of the plug (where the wires go into the plug) are the wiring letters � A.B.C.D.E.

3. Ignition switch OFF.

4. Using a wire with alligator clips on each end � connect pins B and E (big elephant) THUS SHORTING these two pins. CAUTION � do not short any other pins � insulated alligator clips are your best bet.

5. Turn the key on and start the warm bike.

6. NOTE � the odometer should be occasionally flashing, "Check engine". This means you are now in the CALIBRATE MODE. Wait one minute for the rich cold start program to work

7. Go to the left side of the bike and under the gas tank is the idle screw. Use a long #2 Phillips screw driver.

8. Reduce the RPM by going counter clockwise to about 750 RPM. NOTE � go slowly and in small increments. This counter clockwise turn is actually making it richer. Try not to let the motor stall. All we're doing is feeling for a range of settings. If the motor stalls � go clockwise just a little to re-start � wait one minute for the rich cold start program to work.

9. Now slowly and incrementally turn the idle screw clockwise, thus leaning the motor. Turn a little � count to 5 � turn a little count to 5. It takes the computer a moment to catch up with the new voltage you are setting.

10.Suddenly the motor is going to sound 'happy'. This should occur around 875 to 950 rpm very even firing pulses, smooth running, and low engine noise. STOP turning clockwise right there.

11. Now turn counterclockwise 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn.

12.Disconnect Big Elephant while the bike is running. Insure the odometer reads mileage and the "check engine" quit flashing. This means you are OUT OF THE CALIBRATE MODE.

13. Now go back to the idle screw and go clockwise to 1000 rpm

You should now have easier starts � do 35 MPH in 5th gear � smoother drivability � powerful roll-ons � less engine chatter.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wow! I do love my bike and the thought of fracking it up scares the chit out of me.

While the process you've described sounds straight forward enough — it's still a little intimidating... but I've stepped in it now. Maybe I'll go to the thrift store and see if I can find one of those old Operation games just to build my confidence. :)

Not sure when I'll try and tackle this but when I do, i'll let you know how it turned out.
 

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Good luck finding a tech that can fine tune a '99 Victory-you're better off learning and having the ability to tweak it yourself Here's how you set & adjust your TPS settings on an early V92C-

Static TPS Reset:
Jump the B & E pins in the diagnostic plug under your right side cover using small insulated alligator clips. If your looking at the plug with three pins on top - ABC is the top row & D E are the two bottom pins-so jumper the top center pin B, and the bottom right side pin E. So Make sure your idle adjustment lever is completely off & with the key off, place the jumper wire from pin B to pin E. Then, key ON for 30 seconds, key OFF, remove jumper. This is the starting point for further adjustments.

Dynamic TPS Adjustment:
1. Once the bike is warmed up, bring it in to your work area and turn a fan onto the front of the bike to provide cooling.

2. There is a small wiring harness on the computer with 5 male pins in the plug. On the backside of the plug (where the wires go into the plug) are the wiring letters � A.B.C.D.E.

3. Ignition switch OFF.

4. Using a wire with alligator clips on each end � connect pins B and E (big elephant) THUS SHORTING these two pins. CAUTION � do not short any other pins � insulated alligator clips are your best bet.

5. Turn the key on and start the warm bike.

6. NOTE � the odometer should be occasionally flashing, "Check engine". This means you are now in the CALIBRATE MODE. Wait one minute for the rich cold start program to work

7. Go to the left side of the bike and under the gas tank is the idle screw. Use a long #2 Phillips screw driver.

8. Reduce the RPM by going counter clockwise to about 750 RPM. NOTE � go slowly and in small increments. This counter clockwise turn is actually making it richer. Try not to let the motor stall. All we're doing is feeling for a range of settings. If the motor stalls � go clockwise just a little to re-start � wait one minute for the rich cold start program to work.

9. Now slowly and incrementally turn the idle screw clockwise, thus leaning the motor. Turn a little � count to 5 � turn a little count to 5. It takes the computer a moment to catch up with the new voltage you are setting.

10.Suddenly the motor is going to sound 'happy'. This should occur around 875 to 950 rpm very even firing pulses, smooth running, and low engine noise. STOP turning clockwise right there.

11. Now turn counterclockwise 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn.

12.Disconnect Big Elephant while the bike is running. Insure the odometer reads mileage and the "check engine" quit flashing. This means you are OUT OF THE CALIBRATE MODE.

13. Now go back to the idle screw and go clockwise to 1000 rpm

You should now have easier starts � do 35 MPH in 5th gear � smoother drivability � powerful roll-ons � less engine chatter.
Do you know if this still works if you have the power comander hooked up?
 
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