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Discussion Starter #1
Alright fellas I'm really needing some help here. I've replaced the tps, relearned it. Replaced all the relays, cleaned throttle body, new plugs, oil, air and oil filter, just this winter.
Anyways, since I've had the bike it has randomly stalled on me and I've never been abled figure out a consistent cause of stalling, such as a certain gear or rpm
While riding it will stutter once then is fine. When it stalls it acts like it runs out of gas all the sudden, no stuttering just drops rpms to nothing and then when I stop and cycle the key and killswitch and it starts right up and idles like nothing happened...I'm stumped. Any of you smart fellers have any idea what this might be from??
Thanks guys!
 

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I had a similar problem, I found that the rubber boot under the throttle body was rotted and cracked, causing a bad vacuum leak. Your problem may not be a vacuum leak, but it's worth checking out. Also, check the rubber vacuum caps on the nipples on the right side of the throttle body. Mine stalled at idle and low rpm because of the vacuum leak. If yours is stalling at higher rpm, it's probably something else causing it
 

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Alright fellas I'm really needing some help here. I've replaced the tps, relearned it. Replaced all the relays, cleaned throttle body, new plugs, oil, air and oil filter, just this winter.
Anyways, since I've had the bike it has randomly stalled on me and I've never been abled figure out a consistent cause of stalling, such as a certain gear or rpm
While riding it will stutter once then is fine. When it stalls it acts like it runs out of gas all the sudden, no stuttering just drops rpms to nothing and then when I stop and cycle the key and killswitch and it starts right up and idles like nothing happened...I'm stumped. Any of you smart fellers have any idea what this might be from??
Thanks guys!
Have you checked fuel pressure? Hate to say it but could be the fuel pump on the way out. Checked coonections on battery I asummed, no worn cable and tight? Star washers installed? Checked connection to pump under tank? Just thoughts on what's not mentioned here.

Tim
 

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My 99's had it's share of issues over the years.I would say first off-make sure your tank vent line is not pinched or melted shut-this happens on 99s and will cause similar symptoms & in some extreme cases the tanks buckled in. 2nd would be to check your fuel tank's pre-filters-they're inside the tank spigots where the fuel lines connect on each side of the tank-easily overlooked and can get clogged. Third would be the fuel pump & inline fuel filter-there were recalls on these with some of the early bikes. You can check you fuel pressure using the schrader valve in the fuel rail under the right side gas tank- looks like a tire valve stem. Most auto parts will loan you a gauge-hook it & start the bike-you should have 49 PSI. Try these & check back in
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the quick response guys! I'll try to further explain my situation.
As far as I can tell, my tb adapter looks quite new (I bought the bike not yet a year ago). I have yet to try the starter fluid and throttle body spray trick yet.
I've narrowed it down to the stalling only happening when decelerating or coming down from high rpms.
It acts like there's no fuel but very suddenly. And it wants to keeping turning over if I feather the throttle it sputters but usually just dies completely.
My tank vent is nasty but I'm pretty sure its working properly.
I havent checked the prefilters, does a decelerating stalling issue sound like a dirty filter or more of an electrical issue?
Thanks for the help brothers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so I'm pretty sure I've ruled out a bad pump. I just checked it and it was running about 50psi. I sprayed starter fluid around the (what looks like a pretty recently installed throttle body) nothing out of the ordinary occured. I'll have to check the prefilters this weekend when I can drain the tank probably.
I read somewhere that these bikes oil cooler does too good of a job basically and tends to make the bike run too cold. Ive noticed if I let the bike warm up for quite a while before riding it rides perfect. But if I get to where I'm going, let it sit for maybe 30 minutes then start up and take off, it runs like crap, back firing and sputtering and stalling ...is this a cooler problem? Also, it mostly happens at night, or later in the day...when it's cooler out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok that could make sense. Any idea on how I'd test that?
 

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Yes, under the right side cover is the ECM connection- you need to set your multi-meter to ohms and check the resistance between pins #22 & #5 -it should read 13.78 K Ohms.
Trying to show the ECM map-here's the best I can do at this time-here's a better copy
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Awesome. Thanks man I'll give that a shot tonight. I just wemt ahead and bought all new sensors for the bike last night...hah...you can tell I'm a little irritated with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well boys I'm back and more frustrated than ever I've checked the tank vent, throttle body leaks, and replaced the nasty fuel line from tank to fuel pump and cleaned the disgusting tank pre filters..still no good...Hah I've just got back around to working on the bike and just when I thought I fixed it...the damn thing leaves me stranded on the road again. But this time I was paying g attention to the cluster, as I drove I noticed the damn thing revving up and the volts were rising above 18 at some points!! But then sometimes it would stay around 14_15. When the bike dies it throws a check engine and then says bat 11 and then descends from there bat 11 bat 10 etc.
Could this be the work of a bad regulator/rectifier or maybe faulty connections or wiring?
I'm about to dig into the wiring as soon as I can get back to the bike.
Thanks fellas

....so I just checked connections of the regulator rectifier and the connections from it to the stator is completely flooded with old oil. I'm assuming it's wicked it's way through the wiring and into the connection. Is this bad? Could this cause a bad connection and cause my issues?
 

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....so I just checked connections of the regulator rectifier and the connections from it to the stator is completely flooded with old oil. I'm assuming it's wicked it's way through the wiring and into the connection. Is this bad? Could this cause a bad connection and cause my issues?


Yes clean all connection use some carb cleaner or electric contact cleaner.
Once you get it clean try to find out where the oil is coming from
 

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The early bikes all did this-capillary action pulls the oil out of the stator area and it settles in the plug connection. Oil isn't conductive so it doesn't really hurt anything & I doubt it's the source of your problems. Pull and clean as suggested and load it up with dielectric grease-something you should do to every single connector plug and light bulb on this bike. These bikes are voltage sensitive and need a good strong battery-make sure yours is fresh & fully charged.
It took me several years to exorcise the demons from my 99-ultimately replacing the original metal case ECM with a later model plastic one & a new chip-mine would run all day when it was cool but as soon as it would heat up into the 80's she'd shut down and by the time I was done checking stuff it would fire up again. Take your time & work through it they are worth it but it's also the reason I have two bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the advice. And I agree, I love my bike so much I might have to buy a...newer one. :)
 

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If the reg/rect connector is full of oil then the oil has possibly worked its way into the reg/rect causing it to short and overcharge. If this happens the ecu should shut the engine down to protect the electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That does makes sense.
So the last time I messed with it and found the oil in the connection, I cleaned the connectors and plugged them back in. Now the fuel pump won't even engage and my gauge reads "Bat 11" or 12 instead of "alt 12".
Sigh...it's literally been one problem after another with this thing. Oh well though I'm used to old toys.
 

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charge battery. Say how old is it?

When you turn your bike on the gauge will tell you how good the battery is. It should read 12v and when you start it and it read 14v that will tell you the stator and regulator are working right.
Any thing more or less you charging system it not working right and something is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright guys, unfortunately, I'm back after a hiatus due to new job and no free time. I'm sitting here stumped once again with this bike. I thought my problems were a bad fuel pump but I've removed the shock and pulled the pump and filter out and tested it with the battery and some wires and it runs fine, slow due to just speaker wires, but constant.
But when I put the bike wires to the pump and kick the killswitch on to pump it it just does one quick squirt and that's it. Like the only power it's getting is from the relay, which does trigger with the switch. So I guess I need to track the wiring from the relay to the pump?
Also I'm still stumped on the volatage issue, could all these problems be due to a faulty reg/rectifier?
 

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Till the bike runs you can't find out about the reg.
Get the pump fix first then go from there.
 
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