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Discussion Starter #1
I've spent the last eight years on a Yamaha StratoLiner and I have to admit, I loved that thing. But after sitting on that bike for the better part of a decade I decided I was ready to go back to something that had more than just a window on it. The wife and I took a test ride on a 2013 Cross Country in Lake Havasu City Arizona a few weeks ago and that was it, a new addition to the family.

The unit I got already had the Stage 1 and Tri-Ovals on it so I don't have a clue as to what one without is like but this one is a keeper, although whoever thought up that idiotic stock windshield never went over 35 mph on one. That problem was fixed with a ClockWerks flip up windshield which made a big difference.

I'm currently getting ready to do the 500 mile service on this thing tonite and I've been looking underneath for a jack point to get the rear wheel off the ground for doing a belt adjustment. Given that this is a wet sump engine with an oil pan I definitely DON'T want to use the oil pan to lift the bike. But I do see what appears to be a load bearing flange on the cross-over for the exhaust system, is it okay to lift the rear of the bike using that flange?
 

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Welcome to the forum, and I'm surprised no one's weighed in on this yet. As it turns out, I have nothing better to do that pretend to be knowledgeable.

Check your manual, Joe, and you'll see it advises lifting from the crankcase. You won't hurt it, trust me. I've had my XR (only difference between our bikes is yours has a fork-mounted fairing) on floor jacks and a motorcycle lift many times for belt adjustments, steering head bearing inspections, tire inspections, etc. Ma Vic says lift from the crank case, I lift from the crankcase, all will be well.

Downside, the crankcase is actually valleyed slightly. If you put it on an MC lift, it will lean just a hair to one side. Mine still always feels very secure, but some of the other guys here have rigged up shims or pads to make theirs sit level.
 

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I made a block that provides 1" of support and attaches via a rubber band to the round cross bar at the bottom of the passenger peg support. See photos.

I slide the lift under from the right side of the bike and have the handle end rotated back at about a 20 degree angle. I place the right (forward) arm's end against, but not under, the side stand mount. The left (rear) arm is just under my adapter and the exhaust crossover support. The bike sits so well balanced and solid that I have no need to tie it down. I have even removed and replaced both wheels simultaneously for a 2 tire change.thumb up
 

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Welcome to the Forums. I Also traded in the Stratoliner for the CC.
I loved the strat but when it came to doing Long trips and anything on the highway the strat fell short without 6th gear and cruise. Now I have it. Hope you enjoy the ride.
 

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Welcome to the Forum agree the Stock XC Windshield is useless .. Otherwise is a pretty fine ride .. The TriOvals sound pretty decent for a factory stage one .. Enjoy the XC ..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did look in the manual for the jack point but couldn't come up with it. Kinda like looking for the tie down point for trailering in the manual. I did already decide that when we motor back to Wyoming that I'd use the bottom tree for my tie down point in the front, I haven't determined the rear point yet. If it were just a simple trailer I'd not even worry about the rear but we're in a 40' toy hauler and if I don't anchor the rear of the bike it WILL wander around. Speaking of wandering around....

I did go out to the Victory shop yesterday and talked to the service manager also about the jack point. He told me that using that exhaust cross over bracket would bite me in the rear and to use either the suspension mount or the oil pan. Apparently that oil pan is tougher than I gave it credit for.

I did the oil change and belt adjustment last nite after work at a friends house. I've got to say that changing oil on this thing is a breeze!! The Strat had THREE drain points and all of them were horizontal on the bottom of the engine to protect them making getting at a couple of them a pain. This thing isn't even a one beer job.

I pulled the saddlebags to check the belt and the first thing that I noticed was that the rear wheel was not installed and aligned correctly, it was off on the alignment marks by at least 2mm forward on the left side. The shop that did the setup on this thing isn't making any points with me. One of the reasons that I decided to do my own 500 mile inspection was that when I picked the bike up after purchase the tires were low and the suspension had no air in it. Apparently they just wiped it off with a damp rag and said "It's ready to go."

As a little background...I'm 55 and started riding when I was 15, this is bike number 35 and I've owned everything from Beemers to Jap bikes to the mysteriously worshiped Harley Davidson. The Victory probably isn't the best nor fastest bike I've ever owned but I definitely think that I've been converted to a Victory fan. Polaris has done a very good job on engineering this thing for ease of maintenance and that's something that no Harley engineer ever considered on his most intelligent day.
 

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The Strat had THREE drain points and all of them were horizontal on the bottom of the engine to protect them making getting at a couple of them a pain. This thing isn't even a one beer job.

The Victory probably isn't the best nor fastest bike I've ever owned but I definitely think that I've been converted to a Victory fan. Polaris has done a very good job on engineering this thing for ease of maintenance and that's something that no Harley engineer ever considered on his most intelligent day.
Go ahead and finish that beer. By the time you change oil again it will be flat anyway.

If your XC isn't the best riding bike you have ever been on it is the wrong model for you. Did you test ride the Cross Roads and the Vision? Maybe one of those would suit you better.
 

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Congradulations on your new bike. I just picked up my new cct and rode it home almost 250 miles one way and i love the bike. Mine for some reason has the short windshield that comes on the cc and i didn't find it to be too bad, but i was thinking of getting the flip shield for a little more wind protection. I havent hit 500 miles yet but from looking under the bike you should not have a problem lifting on the bottom of motor. Just use a short piece of 2x4 to spread the load if using a floor jack. I do it one cars all the time.
 

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Foto Joe, Congrats on the new ride. You've had way more bikes than me so I'm sure you know more than I do, but as far as "best bike", I think that depends on what you want to do on one, long haul, bar hopper, racing,etc. For what I want, my XCT is perfect and I love it,with trunk for trips with or without wife, without trunk when I'm just running around town with no trips planned for a while and riding back and forth to work. These bikes are almost to easy to work on its crazy. I've done more to this bike in one year than all my other bikes combined over the years. I will caution you about one thing, the air filter change requires you to remove gas tank, there's a plastic nipple or something under there that is overly pricey and breaks easily. There's a video by Witchdoctor about how to take the tank off without breaking that nipple, apparently people try to pull the gas line off at the nipple, but John at Witchdoctors says to take the line off behind the right side cheese wedge, you still have to be careful when you remove the tank and set it down, but your not pulling on the brittle plastic piece. But I think you will love this bike more than any you have had, I already do, but I haven't had as many as you so it might take you longer than it did me. I fell in love the first couple of rides, but after my first long trip (1900 miles), I knew this would probably be my last bike for a long time. Congrats again and enjoy.
 

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I have found nothing no to like. Working on my XR has revealed no hard to get to fasteners or anything else for that matter. Its like the engineers designed 'em like they were going to have to work on them. Even removing the rear wheel is easy. My dealer's shop has not seen my bike since the sale.
Foto Joe, to add to Bama's excellent advice; when you need to remove the tank, have the fuel level real low. That sucker is heavy when full. Wrap all that junk on the handle bars with cloths, so the tank won't be scratched as you lift it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oldman47 said:
If your XC isn't the best riding bike you have ever been on it is the wrong model for you. Did you test ride the Cross Roads and the Vision? Maybe one of those would suit you better.
The problem with making statements non-verbally like here on a forum is that there isn't any inflection or body language and things tend to get skewed, meanings misinterpreted etc., let me try to explain....

I think Bama said it much better than I, " I think that depends on what you want to do on one." Realistically there is no such thing as the "Perfect" bike. What I meant was I've ridden bikes that rode better while one-up. The Cross Country is a tad stiff and I'm still in the process of playing with the suspension. I weigh 225 so I initially put 9 psi in the rear but I've dropped it down to 5 psi. It's still a bit on the stiff side but it's livable. The stiff ride isn't a deal breaker so don't get me wrong it's just not as cushy as an Electra-Glide or a Strat (God forgive me for making a comparison with a Harley). On the other hand riding two-up with the suspension set at 35 psi instead of the 45 psi that the placard calls for the ride is great. I haven't tried the higher pressure simply because the only pump I've got is an old one from my Glide and it only goes to 35 psi.

As far as fastest I was referring to horsepower and torque, yes it's got Harley beaten to death but so does every Japanese bike in that particular class so that's not really anything to brag about. There is more than enough torque and horsepower to do the job on the Victory definitely, but coming from a Stratoliner you can feel the difference. The Strat in my opinion really had too much of both, there's no need to lift the front wheel during acceleration while two-up or break the rear tire loose while one-up.

All around the Victory is a fine piece of engineering and the company has made great strides, by the way the son of an old friend of mine is actually a test rider for Victory here in Arizona. The boy gets paid to put 400+ miles per day on whatever they hand him so I've had a few conversations with him as well about the tech aspects.

I think if I had to complain about anything I'd like to know why they chose that stupid window on the Cross Countries. I guess if you're five foot nothing it might work but for 6' 2" it's nothing more than a decoration. But as I said before, no bike is perfect.

Oh by the way, I did ride the Vision last September, a friend in Vegas has one and insisted that I take it out on the highway. The friend incidentally is an old biker that you wouldn't peg for a Vision rider. I rode it about 30 miles out on old Route 66 and I was impressed but the Vision just isn't my kind of bike. It is however what lead me to test ride the Cross Country.
 

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I found the pages in my manual concerning lifting and securing the bike during transport. I went ahead and scanned 'em to post for ya. I know you got lifting figured out now, but maybe someone else could make use of it.

My manual's from 2011. Did they remove these sections on newer models? Seems to me you're not the first person to ask recently.
 

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Similar info in my 2012/2013 Cross bikes manual E-version.

Here's the pertinent bullet point about hoisting:

The motorcycle can be elevated by placing a stable, flat platform jack or lift mechanism on a firm flat surface and lifting under the engine crankcase. The platform should be a minimum 12 inches square, and clear of any components under the motorcycle. DO NOT attempt to lift the motorcycle without properly securing it with straps.
 
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