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Discussion Starter #1
Fairly recently I began needing to give an initial squeeze to my brake lever before applying the brakes. I made a habit a long time ago of flashing my brake lights when I slow down, so I don't know when this issue began to surface. If I do pump the brakes, the bike slows down perfectly. The bike will stop okay without doing it, but the lever will go all the way "floor" so to speak if I brake hard and obviously needs to be fixed.

Does this sound like I have air in the lines? Will this be covered under the warranty? How easy is it to bleed the brakes and get the air out?

Thanks!
 

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How old is the bike?
How old is the brake fluid? Perhaps the fluid needs to be changed out...
 

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My rear brake is gone, keeps sucking air in at the caliper (I think)
I suspect my fluid was 5 years old, flushed it through with fresh fluid but the problem persists.
Front brake still workd fine but I changed the fluid in it as well and will continue to do so every 12 months.
I fit a hose over the bleeder and suspend the bottom of the hose in a jar of used brake fluid then remove the mastet cylinder cap carefully and crack the bleeder screw a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and pump the fluid through being careful not to let the master reservoir fall töo low and suck air in, pump the pedal /lever steadily not to fast and keep the masters topped up.
Youll see bubbles coming out of the bottom of your hose in the jar of fluid, keep pumping and topping up till youre sure all the old brake fluid is out then nip up the bleeder and try the pedal it should be good.
Doesnt hurt to give it another smaller bleed after a test ride just to be sure all the air is out.
If youre lucky itll come good...if not theres kits available for front calipers but strangely not for the rear!!!
 

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I've had the same issue with my '13 XC since I drove it out of the dealership new. I've gone after the front brakes with a Mighty Vac as well as just pump bleeding. I've had the dealership try to bleed them as well and we both have had about the same success which is not much.

To someone who has never ridden the bike they probably wouldn't even notice it but I can feel a slight "pump up" with one lever pull. The bike still stops just fine and it's definitely not a safety issue but from what I understand Victory front brakes can be a bitch to bleed.
 

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When i installed my 4" extensions i was surprised how irritating it was of getting all the air out, and the next day i did it again and still air was coming out .... And as most of us, i did many break with bikes or cars .. So yes i feel your pain ....
 

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Try zip tieing the lever to the grip over night and tapping the brake lines with a screw driver handle.. Give it a good 12 hours under pressure , when you remove the zip tie the air will bubble into the reservoir
 

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Dave S said:
Try zip tieing the lever to the grip over night and tapping the brake lines with a screw driver handle.. Give it a good 12 hours under pressure , when you remove the zip tie the air will bubble into the reservoir
Sounds like a good idea...I tried it several times and it didn't work.
 

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Turn your handlebars to the left. This will put master cylinder at its highest point. Cover all the paint with whatever.
Now pull cap off and squeeze lever NO more than 1/8 inch.
Do you see air bubbles coming out. Try several times.
No air bubbles then no air in line. Just in case repeat this in a few days.
No air then no air.

Guys stop and think of your car brake pedal it has travel in it so do all breaks
 

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Soft Lever Solved!!!!

To all those with Cross bikes that are having the soft brake lever problem... Air gets trapped at the banjo bolt. It will not come out without a little reverse flow.

Long story here, try to make it short.

2013 Cross Country Tour, had the soft lever from the sales floor. Got worse as the miles added up and fluid turned dark fast. Tried to bleed the system using a MightyVac, not much improvement. Maybe a year later I tried the reverse bleed, impossible with ABS. Ended up pumping the handle, forcing fluid up into a large bottle hanging from the ceiling. After fluid ran clear I just kept running the same fluid back through. Ran maybe 2 gallons of fluid through the front brakes without much improvement before I gave up.

Discussed this problem with 2 dealerships. They said bring it in. Talked to Kevin and he said air was trapped at the ABS module. Then went to the Victory demos at Daytona and talked to a couple of tech guys. Me and one of the techs went around and felt demo bikes and found soft levers on most of the fleet. Went and got the head tech guy and he said air gets trapped at the ABS module and you couldn’t get it out without cycling the ABS. Apparently Victory was/is working on adding this function to the Digital Wrench, but as of last April it was not available.

Three months ago I changed my brake pads out. Compressed the pistons 100%, forcing some brake fluid back into the reservoir. Brake lever went hard as a rock, just like it should be!!! No problems since.

My guess based on this experience is that a little air gets trapped at the banjo bolt. It will not come out without a little reverse flow.
 

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For those who don't know what the symptoms are...

Lever adjustment set on 3.
First grab... lever goes all the way to the handle and braking force is nowhere near 100%.
Second grab... lever is more firm, but still has significant travel before full braking force is applied.
Third grab, lever is firm like a non-ABS Cross Country.

Wait 30 seconds, same process is required to get a firm lever.
 

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Open reservoir, remove some of the fluid, compress first caliper, remove fluid as needed so reservoir doesn't overflow, compress other caliper making sure reservoir doesn't overflow. Pump lever slowly and add fluid as needed until you get a firm lever and fluid level is correct. It is helpful to have a second person watching the level. Compress calipers with firm constant force or the fluid will squirt out of the reservoir.

Changing front pads and doing the above took maybe 30 minutes.
 

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The OP has not responded with the age of his bike or if he has changed the fluid within the past 2 years. If he can't help us, how can we help him?
My 2 cents worth is to install a set of Speed Bleeders. I have never had a more firm lever than after bleeding with those. And its so easy peasy.
 

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I will second the Speed Bleeders. $28 to my door and makes brake maintenance a breeze. Wish I would have done it sooner.
 

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Front Right - SB8125L
Front Left - SB8125LL
Rear - SB8125L

They also come in stainless steel, add SS to the end of the part number.
 

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Okay, I'll bite! Where did you get them from? Up here in Canada the 4 places I checked on 2 didn't carry them, 1 said they could order maybe? and 1 said they couldn't find the SB8125LL? I tried Motorcycle Superstore in US and they said the same thing - the SB8125L - $4.95 each plus 30 bucks to ship( wtf) and there is no such thing as SB8125LL???
 
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