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This is probly a question for Amsoil Dealers, maybe not. And I guess I shouldn't have written non-MC in title, but, here's my oil question:
I found Amsoil in a local store. They have 3 diff weights available. And was reading the back of the 10-40, and although it is not the MC specific Amsoil that I currently use, it does say it is for motorcycles, and also has the JASO MA, ISO-L-EMA (Wet Clutch) rating along with the other API ratings.
So, is it the same as I'm using ??? Or is there a difference ???
Should I switch to this one, or not ???
It will save me about 25 miles from going to the Vic dealer to get the MC Amsoil.
 

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This is probly a question for Amsoil Dealers, maybe not. And I guess I shouldn't have written non-MC in title, but, here's my oil question:
I found Amsoil in a local store. They have 3 diff weights available. And was reading the back of the 10-40, and although it is not the MC specific Amsoil that I currently use, it does say it is for motorcycles, and also has the JASO MA, ISO-L-EMA (Wet Clutch) rating along with the other API ratings.
So, is it the same as I'm using ??? Or is there a difference ???
Should I switch to this one, or not ???
It will save me about 25 miles from going to the Vic dealer to get the MC Amsoil.
I just became a Dealer this week . Looking at my catalog your fine ...
 

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This is probly a question for Amsoil Dealers, maybe not. And I guess I shouldn't have written non-MC in title, but, here's my oil question:
I found Amsoil in a local store. They have 3 diff weights available. And was reading the back of the 10-40, and although it is not the MC specific Amsoil that I currently use, it does say it is for motorcycles, and also has the JASO MA, ISO-L-EMA (Wet Clutch) rating along with the other API ratings.
So, is it the same as I'm using ??? Or is there a difference ???
Should I switch to this one, or not ???
It will save me about 25 miles from going to the Vic dealer to get the MC Amsoil.
read here there are a 1000 post on oil http://www.victoryforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25
 

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Ok , I called in and spoke to a girl in Tech this afternoon and asked her the difference between the 10/40 & the 10/40 MC . she said and I'm paraphrasing the conversation as I was driving and had her on speaker . The 10/40 was used for all applications for motorcycles and cars plus farm equipment and Diesel engines .

The 10/40 MC was developed for motorcycles solely and based on the JASO guidelines for high heat and the wet clutch applications .Can go double the normal drain intervals .
I asked her about using both being used in motorcycles and she said yes there both for motorcycles.
There website as Data sheets for all there oils if you wish to compare and delve further into the specifics . Plenty of info for all, if you want to take a few .Price I believe is a little over a dollar between the two o them MC being higher.
While I'm no expert I have been using synthetic oils in every job I've been at for over the last twenty five years . I had my own limousine company , with ten cars One example I can share with Amsoil in the the crank case that stands out is a 6 passenger car that had 300,000 miles on it that we had for over 5 years . That car ran airports from JFK to AC to Philly and Baltimore. Never any engine problems with that car.
In the trucking business their were several Owner Operators who used Amsoil in the trucks and were changing ther oils only once a year . They did change there filters at regular,intervals . They showed me on more than one occasion that there operating cost were cheaper than others . I did use one of the company tractors as a test mule to see how it fared against our regular oil that we used and Amsoil did make a difference. fuel mileage was better by almost 3% and that a lot over the course of a year with a over the road tractor trailer that hauled steel coils and beams across he US.

Hope this helps.
Mick
 

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Truth be told, if you used straight 30 Wt Quaker State oil and changed it every 1500 miles your engine would last just as long. The best oil is NEW, FRESH, CLEAN oil.

We use synthetics because they hold their viscosity under dilution and shear and don't have to be changed so often. That said, Advance Auto sells Mobil 1 synthetic MC oil... cheaper than Amsoil.

The answer I was looking for... The MC is formulated to better resist shear forces. On a motorcycle where the oil is shared by the engine/primary/trans/clutch there are greater shear forces on the oil than there would be in a car engine, in addition to the air cooled aspect.
 

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The 10/40 MC was developed for motorcycles solely and based on the JASO guidelines for high heat and the wet clutch applications .Can go double the normal drain intervals .
Any oil without "friction modifiers" can be used in a bike with a wet clutch.

As to doubling the drain intervals, Consumer Reports has already shown that the 3000 mile interval commonly used for conventional oils can easily be doubled in autos. Due to shearing in our common transmission bikes this probably doesn't hold, though Vic specs 5k intervals with their oil which appears to be conventional.
 

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The answer I was looking for... The MC is formulated to better resist shear forces.
There was a write-up in MCN (that could probably be found now on the net now) that found that the main difference between car and bike oils was the amount of zinc each contained. As they explained, zinc is the last line of defense in an engine being used in high temp, high stress (rpm) conditions. IOW, it probably is useful if you're running around VIR WFO on your 600 Ninja, but probably less so for cruising down the by way at 60 mph on a big twin.
 

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There was a write-up in MCN (that could probably be found now on the net now) that found that the main difference between car and bike oils was the amount of zinc each contained. As they explained, zinc is the last line of defense in an engine being used in high temp, high stress (rpm) conditions. IOW, it probably is useful if you're running around VIR WFO on your 600 Ninja, but probably less so for cruising down the by way at 60 mph on a big twin.
That is old news.
Zinc is not recommended for any motor connected to a catalytic converter . Zinc in oil will destroy a cat. And it gets worse. For the best MC oil used to be diesel oil. Because of the high zinc content. But not any more. Now that we have "clean diesel" the zinc has been reduced to near nill even in diesel oil..........because clean diesels have cats....
 

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Truth be told, if you used straight 30 Wt Quaker State oil and changed it every 1500 miles your engine would last just as long. The best oil is NEW, FRESH, CLEAN oil.

We use synthetics because they hold their viscosity under dilution and shear and don't have to be changed so often. That said, Advance Auto sells Mobil 1 synthetic MC oil... cheaper than Amsoil.

The answer I was looking for... The MC is formulated to better resist shear forces. On a motorcycle where the oil is shared by the engine/primary/trans/clutch there are greater shear forces on the oil than there would be in a car engine, in addition to the air cooled aspect.
100% agree with you...
Something else we should think about is that dirty oil carries small particals of metal and carbon deposits witch can do damage if left in the motor to long.
Then there is all the hype about using a super fine 10 micron or less filter to capture all that dirt. But those filters plug up sooner and the oil ends up running through the filters bypass and now you are running with no oil filter. Or worse low oil pressure due to how hard the oil is to pass through the plugged up filter.
So don't leave the oil in the motor to long it's a loose loose condition no matter how good the oil is......
 

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This is probly a question for Amsoil Dealers, maybe not. And I guess I shouldn't have written non-MC in title, but, here's my oil question:
I found Amsoil in a local store. They have 3 diff weights available. And was reading the back of the 10-40, and although it is not the MC specific Amsoil that I currently use, it does say it is for motorcycles, and also has the JASO MA, ISO-L-EMA (Wet Clutch) rating along with the other API ratings.
So, is it the same as I'm using ??? Or is there a difference ???
Should I switch to this one, or not ???
It will save me about 25 miles from going to the Vic dealer to get the MC Amsoil.
Use the one that says for motorcycles. Car oil has a diffrent shear factor and not made for motorcycles. 10-40 will work great for you
 

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This discussion is going on with Mobil 1 on other sites also.Did they both change there labeling at the same time?
 
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