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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a brand new '15 XCT, 550 miles on it. Dealer installed Witchdoctor baffled slip on mufflers and Loyd's fuel controller. The other day while riding the fuel line slipped off the fuel tank nipple. Dumped 1\2 tank of fuel out on the rear tire and lost traction leaving a light. Luckily I was next to a gas stop so took off the tank and slip the line back on the fuel nipple until it clicked, put in a gallon and rode 10 miles home without a problem. Then next day as I was feathering the clutch to turn left at a light the engine stalled. Pulled in the clutch and it started immediately. I felt it start to stall again at another light, as I was creeping along, but was able to keep it going. To say the least it's dangerous and I'm pissed. I have searched and seen many post about this dangerous and curious stalling problem. Any thought as to why and how to fix. Thanks
 

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I have a brand new '15 XCT, 550 miles on it. Dealer installed Witchdoctor baffled slip on mufflers and Loyd's fuel controller. The other day while riding the fuel line slipped off the fuel tank nipple. Dumped 1\2 tank of fuel out on the rear tire and lost traction leaving a light. Luckily I was next to a gas stop so took off the tank and slip the line back on the fuel nipple until it clicked, put in a gallon and rode 10 miles home without a problem. Then next day as I was feathering the clutch to turn left at a light the engine stalled. Pulled in the clutch and it started immediately. I felt it start to stall again at another light as I was creeping along but was able to keep it going. To say the least it's dangerous and I'm pissed. I have searched and seen many post about this dangerous and curious stalling problem. Any thought as to why and how to fix. Thanks
First tip would be to check the battery connections as this seems to be a common problem with new bikes and causes all sorts of weird behavior.
 

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whose map is in the fuel controller.
It might not be set right. If dealer put in map stop. Call Lloydz and get a map from him
 

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Your engine is still very tight--it takes around 3,000 miles to break it in. I was having stall problems, called Lloydz and they recommended their IAV (adjustable air/idle valve) and that helped. You might also want to consider installing Lloydz adjustable timing wheel to get away from EPA settings. Did the dealer disconnect and/or remove the O2 sensors? They have to be out of there for the Lloydz VFCIII to work--if that's the one you have.
All three posts that precede mine have valuable tips you should follow....
+ Place external star lock washers under the battery bolts and tighten 'em. They have a tendency to loosen.
+ Use 3,000 RPM plus for shifting and do not operate under 2500 RPM.
+ Call Lloydz as VJ recommends, not only for fuel controller settings, but second opinions re the timing wheel and idle valve.
 

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Most seem to set the VFCIII way to rich. Are you a throttle blipper if so stop it for one you look foolish doing it and second these bike don't like it and feel foolish having you do it so they shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Like I said l am feathering the clutch and feeding fuel, creeping into an intersection. Then when traffic clears and I give it gas, it dies. I don't understand why some people don't like it when some people rev the engine. These motors are dogs off the line. They don't work well at low rpm. I really have to rev it above 2500 to get it to move. The issue is not how I operate the motor. It's called a lean stall and its dangerous. I added a fuel controller to eliminate the lack of low rpm torque. I believe I need to have my dealer that installed the controller increase fuel map at low rpm. Any other suggestions, besides don't blip, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. PS I guess I could get a goldwing, they have unbelievable torque and throttle response at all rpm. I also think that Vic would be much better with throttle by wire. With efi the throttle responds better by wire.
 

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If you have a bike that is a staller as both of ours were be sure to go here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
and fill out a complaint, while your still pissed.
Also write a return receipt requested letter to Victory telling them how you feel about the stalling issue.

The loose battery cables will definitely screw you up. These bikes get really weird if they aren't getting a good connection.

You might want to read through this: http://www.victoryforums.com/8-victory-kingpin-forum/147914-loud-backfire-bike-stalled-i-almost-fell-off-bike-2.html

His bike had a cracked or defective vacuum line which was the real problem but there is all sorts of advice there on how to keep them from stalling if you have one that stalls.
 

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Are you coming off a Harley by chance? If so you will need to learn how to use your rpm's differently and shift at a higher rpm (around 3k).

The ATS will help your low end grunt and of course the usual air filter, exhaust, tuner, and tune to slap the EPA out of it.
 

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Are you coming off a Harley by chance? If so you will need to learn how to use your rpm's differently and shift at a higher rpm (around 3k).

The ATS will help your low end grunt and of course the usual air filter, exhaust, tuner, and tune to slap the EPA out of it.

+1

ATS fixes a lot of low rpm issues....
 

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Just read your second post.
You posted while I was writing .
Your right about the lean stall. It's just that the only Polaris is sure what is causing this stalling problem and they aren't sharing what they know with their dealers or customers.

The problem could be with the IAC valve ( Idle Air Control valve)
It's the servo or stepper motor driven valve that controls the amount of air the motor gets at idle and coming off idle. I believe it is also used to provide a bit of extra air at times to insure the cat's stay hot and and work properly. The timing is also retarded at times to raise the temperature of the Cats. That is my understanding anyway.


One guy here had a defective IAC valve which he changed or the dealer changed and the problem (stalling) went away.
This valve Lloyd'z Idle Air Valve is the valve that Ricz was referring to.
It's also related to the IAC. The valve in essentially a oversize needle valve that allows you to restrict the amount of air the factory IAC can add to lean out your mixture.
So if you have this valve and if the factory IAC would add too much air sometimes and cause a stall, you can set this "auxiliary orifice" (The lloyd's valve) to only allow less air through than would cause a lean stall.


However as I said no one except Polaris is sure what the problem is other than some bikes have a lean stall issue. It could be the valve or it could be the ECM is to busy to properly control the valve sometimes or a crap load of other things which I am completely unaware of. Lloyds does sell that valve and have found that it rids some bikes of the lean stall problem.

As Ricz said his bike stalled and he listed what he did to stop it. One of the things is that valve. Re read his post for the other things.
He was successful in getting his to stop stalling.

My wifes and my bike were both stallers and I chose to make the bike less lean and to get rid of the EPA retarded timing in the hopes that would correct it. I added fuel controllers (PC-V's) and a timing wheel Lloydz Adjustable Timing System Some of the folks here suggested it.
It seems to have worked. However I have one of the LLoyd's IAV valves on hand now which I got used. If we experience another lean stall I'll try that on which ever bike still has the issue.
So far it seems to be solved with the Timing wheel and a less lean map. In a few weeks I will be testing mine some more to see if it is really fixed.

That's my thoughts on it.

Please do file a complaint though. The only way Victory will get off it's ass and fix it is if they are forced to. They have pretty much made that clear by their inaction on the matter.
 

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My bike puked and conked out on me more then once during slow speed maneuvering and I actually injured myself trying to keep the bike from going down with mamma on the back .:mad: I am not a throttle jockey and rarely blip the throttle , I also have every mod going and a KMC tune , my bike still stalls randomly for no reason . Sooner or later I will end up getting rear ended because my bike stalls at a light or stop sign .:soapbox: P.S. I checked the whole engine over with a propane tank looking for vacuum leaks and could not find any .
 

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These motors are dogs off the line. They don't work well at low rpm. I really have to rev it above 2500 to get it to move. The issue is not how I operate the motor. It's called a lean stall and its dangerous. With efi the throttle responds better by wire.
I absolutely 1000% agree with you that the motor is a dog off the line and doesn't work below 2500 RPM.

Get one of these; Lloyds adjustable timing gear (click on the link) trust me cheapest 149 $ for HP you'll ever buy.
Wakes the motor right up....like Nike's ad says...Just freaking do it, I added the freaking for emphasis :wink you won't be sorry.

As far as EFI being better with "fly by wire" I'd debate that. With wire there's the lag of the servo and even direct servo's get sloppy over time as linkages wear with no way to take the slop out. I'll stick to the old fashioned but proven cables. The throttle cable breaks, a boot lace will get me home(been there, done that, got the T-shirt), a servo craps the bed you need a trailer. If I wanted complex I'd still be riding a BMW.
 

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The other day while riding the fuel line slipped off the fuel tank nipple. Dumped 1\2 tank of fuel out on the rear tire and lost traction leaving a light.
Same thing here , cant remember the mileage but was about two weeks old .....Fuel all over my motor , I was PISSED !
 

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Man I saw that fuel line problem almost end real bad! I was at the Victory demo day at my local dealer looking at the new Magnums I liked the black one but it was in the back of the pack and only a few guys there so I put my helmet on the red one up front.

Then a bunch of people showed up and a guy took the black one. We get about 5 miles out into the country approaching a T intersection and I hear honking from behind. The guy goes right through the middle of the group (not sure how he didn't take us all out) sliding through the stop sign (not sure how he was missed by the 60mph cross traffic) ends up dumping it across the intersection in a field!!!!!!

I was so sure I was about to watch a guy get T boned and die right in front of me! I think he panicked though because I'm not sure why he couldn't have stopped with the front brake. Needless to say I rode home on my Cross Roads that day thinking how I may have cheated death once again cause I really wanted to ride the black one.

I did kinda regret that I didn't pick that one because if I lived through it I would be riding my new FREE Magnum after my lawyer got through with them!!!
 

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Long story short pull taint check fuel line!!
 

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I think its the IAV. Just not good. Cars use them and they do ok but I think thats do to the fact the motor provides more vacuum.
Last week out for a ride at one point doing a little over 60mph I can into real sharp switchback curve and for a instant I could feel the motor trying to quit as I let off the throttle. I made it but the rest of the day keep thinking the IAV was going to let me down.
I have search the net looking for some kind of replacement but nothing.

By the way fly by wire has been in cars since 2000
 

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I think its the IAV. Just not good. Cars use them and they do ok but I think thats do to the fact the motor provides more vacuum.
Last week out for a ride at one point doing a little over 60mph I can into real sharp switchback curve and for a instant I could feel the motor trying to quit as I let off the throttle. I made it but the rest of the day keep thinking the IAV was going to let me down.
I have search the net looking for some kind of replacement but nothing.

By the way fly by wire has been in cars since 2000

I tend to agree with you on that.
I'm pretty sure the IAV is just a generic purchased item, possibly modded to Polaris specs but not something that Vic originally had engineered for the 106. It's made by Mikuni.

I was wondering if moving the IAV out from where it gets so hot would help. Maybe the guy who designed it never dreamed that it would be sitting right smack between to big heaters/cylinders. There doesn't seem to be a hotter place to put a sophisticated stepper motor metering valve unless you stuffed it up the exhaust pipe.

I know that my wifes bike did the stalling thing when she had been stuck in traffic on surface streets when she slowed down from running briskly. Mine did it when I had been running hard on the highway on a hot day in Globe then got caught in rush hour traffic. That is when air cooled motors are shedding the most heat.

Haven't tried moving ours because I didn't think of it at the time. I was in a hurry to find some proven way to stop the stalling before one of us got hurt or killed.
Initially I completely missed ricz response that the lloyd's valve had fixed his. Later I ran across the fellow who was nice enough to post his experience with the defective IAC and I realized that might be the real cause.

I think that relocating the IAC could help also in that the longer the tubing lines the less air it will be able to pass. Friction and the boundary layer will act sort of like the LLoyds valve does in a small way. But you would need to get the right plug to do it or butcher the harness.

It might not even help but It might if heating up the IAC is the problem.
 

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I found that my IAV was loosing its setting because the spring is too weak. I replaced it with a stronger spring and now it stays. I passed that info on to Lloydz, but I guess they are still sitting on a supply of the weak springs. FYI--change the spring.
 

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I found that my IAV was loosing its setting because the spring is too weak. I replaced it with a stronger spring and now it stays. I passed that info on to Lloydz, but I guess they are still sitting on a supply of the weak springs. FYI--change the spring.
Thanks, good to know. That must have caused you some confusion having it changing settings on it's own.
I got mine used with no instructions. How do you set one up?
 
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