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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any tips on how to get the throttle body off the bike? Engine is running rough and got a little better with Vic Shops tps reset but Im pretty sure I have an intake leak somewhere. I still get popping an acceleration. After taking the tank off what needs to be done in order to take these out to inspect? Need to check the "gasket" or rtv if its on this year bike. While I tried the carb spray while running and it seemed to make little difference, I can't actually see the entire boot (adapter) so I can't tell if its from there either. Mind you this bike has been setting for years before I got it, so I wouldn't be surprised if it were cracked but not visible unless inspected close up. Thanks for the help.


01 Victory V92 Deluxe
 

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I really know nothing of the intricacies of the early Vic's.
I think they share a similar basic layout though.
In my experience if you can afford to upgrade to a performance filter then you can get rid of the stock item that takes up all that room.
I found once I'd cut up my stock filter box and got rid of it, and if you save some parts and are resourceful and skilled you may be able to build your own performance air filter intake...maybe... Been done before.
On my 2010 once the airborne was gone I undid the 4 Allen bolts holding the throttle body and was able to clean it both sides before fitting a Ness Ram filter.
It's a fiddly job undoing things, particularly a couple of the Allen bolts but patience and time will see it off.
That's a 2010, hopefully for you an early won't be a hell of a lot different.
With patience it must be possible to do the job without dicing the original airbox.
There's people here that have done it before and I'm sure they'll chime in with better advice than what I can offer, more to your specific model.
Good luck.
Mbx
 

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Anyone have any tips on how to get the throttle body off the bike? Engine is running rough and got a little better with Vic Shops tps reset but Im pretty sure I have an intake leak somewhere. I still get popping an acceleration. After taking the tank off what needs to be done in order to take these out to inspect? Need to check the "gasket" or rtv if its on this year bike. While I tried the carb spray while running and it seemed to make little difference, I can't actually see the entire boot (adapter) so I can't tell if its from there either. Mind you this bike has been setting for years before I got it, so I wouldn't be surprised if it were cracked but not visible unless inspected close up. Thanks for the help.


01 Victory V92 Deluxe
Hi iamtheanimal,

I am making the assumption that the '01 airbox is pretty much like the '02 V92TC that I had until last year.

Once the tank is off you will see a couple screws around the lid of the airbox. Take out these screws and the airbox lid should come off. Then you will be able to see straight down into the throttle body.

There are a couple small screws in the bottom of the airbox right around the edge of the holes of the throttle body. These screws hold the throttle body up against the bottom of the airbox. As you remove these screws DO NOT drop them down the intake! Your butterfly valves should be closed but be careful.

Next look for a couple of screws that hold the rubber throttle body adapter up against the bottom of the metal throttle body. The screws are upside down on both sides outside the throttle body. They will take a little patience to get out since you can only make small turns of the allen key at a time.

Now, if memory serves me right, you should be able to slide the metal throttle body out from between the airbox and the rubber adapter. With this out of the way, you can loosen the "hose clamps" and then pull the adapter off the intake manifolds.

I can almost guarantee that the adapter is split if it is old and the bike has been parked. Make sure you also replace the rubber vacuum hose caps that seal the test ports on the throttle body.

This is the time to clean the throttle body really well while it is out of the bike. Pay close attention to the small holes located on the sides just above where the butterflies touch the bore of the throttle body. These are the bleed air ports used to balance the two bores at idle. Use only spray cleaner thru them. One (or both) may appear blocked but in reality they are probably just adjusted to the full closed position. Do not try to stick a wire thru them! Don't try to make any adjustments here. These ports are to compensate for small differences between the two sides for how well the butterflies close up to the bores at idle.

Again, assuming that the '01 is similar to the '02, download the 02-04 Service Manual and look at page 5.25 for an exploded view.

Hopefully this helps. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A million thanks, thats incredibly helpful. I actually downloaded the manual for the 01 which was useless. Glad to see the 02 version is a million times better. Quick question though, I'm assuming tubes/snorkels need to be removed. Once those are out, screws at the bottom of airbox and the hose clamps are off, can I pull the throttle body up and out?

Also saw a post where someone else was going crazy trying to get those screws out? Any chance you remember the size allen key needed there? I figure if I know beforehand might help make this a 4 cigarette project instead of a 10 cigarette one. :) Thanks again.
 

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The throttle body is the metal piece that has the cables attached that make the butterflies move. The adapter is the rubber part located below the throttle body.

Remove the metal throttle body by sliding it out. This makes enough space for the rubber adapter to be lifted up to get it off the intake ports. You cannot remove both the throttle body and the adapter at the same time.

All the fasteners are metric. I don't know the exact size. In tight places a ball-end allen key is useful since you can angle it a little and don't have to be straight on to the screw head.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all that. How did you get the gasket and o rings set in place considering how tight the space is? Did you dab some rtv to keep it in place?
 

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Don't use RTV, it always gets into places you don't want it.

The o-rings will stay in their grooves as you slide the throttle body across them. A very light oil film may help keep them from "grabbing". I think the gasket on top of the throttle body can be slid into place after the throttle body adapter and throttle body are screwed together and the o-rings are held in place. You can see that gasket and align it from the top through the airbox holes. I can't remember exactly how the airbox is held in place but if you can loosen it and lift it just a fraction of an inch it would help. Also, you can press downward on the throttle body and the rubber adapter will compress a little and give you some space to slide in the gasket. Don't forget, that rubber adapter is designed to flex as the engine moves in its mounts while the airbox is rigidly mounted to the frame.
 

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I always use a "thin" layer of grease on gaskets and o=ring to hold them in place
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again mh1. Sounds like a lot of patience and slow going to do this. Woohoo! Will definitely have to be a weekend when the kids are with their mom. ;) I take it you replaced the airbox gasket too, or skipped that one? Who the hell decided this was a reasonable way to place a serviceable part on a bike. Reminds me of my ford focus, have to replace the driver side quarter panel in order to get to the air filter and that comes as a single unit box with hose that's a $500 piece.

Visionjohnny, what kinda grease should I be using here?

Thanks all.
 

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any kind of grease. It just holds gaskets and o-rings in place so they don't move
 

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The airbox gasket is not a critical seal. It just needs to keep dirt out. All the critical air-fuel measuring and mixing occurs within the metal throttle body and below.
 

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And I wouldn't use ordinary grease on a rubber o-ring.
 

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Vaseline is in most household and very effective on assembly of parts & engines etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Danged bolts holding the throttle body adapter

Ok, so I went mad trying to squeeze in even a ball end long hex key, and finally found the part below in the garage. Complete godsend working on this. It's a flexible shaft screwdiver attachment with an H4 bit. Now my question is how in the hell do they expect a real reliable seal when I can't get it supertight with the space we have to work with. Oh, and before I take this off, do I need to remove the cables? Thanks.

Figure I'm going to replace the TPS while I'm at it. I picked up one at advance auto that seems to be an interchangeable part for the AC Delco and NAPA part. I know there was mention of setting the resistance on these, any tips on that as well?

Thanks all for the help, its been tremendously helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One last thing, the gasket for this year isn't a pair of o-rings, its one full gasket that covers the entire surface. Looking at the way it came from factory, seems they did use rtv to keep it in place, and it has creased over the years. Any suggestions on what to use to keep it in place and keep it from creasing down the line? Thanks.
 

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I can only speak from my personal experience when I fitted the Ness filter box and then removed it to fit Torquetubes.
Your 07 must be different to my 10 cos I just used a standard 90deg bend Allen key, with much cursing and fiddling on at least one Allen bolt.
They don't need to be Super tight or you'll be trying to fix a stripped thread.
They need to be firm and even, use a dab of medium loctite if you're worried about em loosening.
The mating surfaces should be clean and a new gasket with a thin smear of rtv to hold it in place should suffice.
I got away with just bolting mine back down.
My torquetubes are sealed on the upper mating surface with rtv hi temp, the expensive copper coloured stuff.
As I said I can only speak from my experience on a bike 3 years newer.
Surely there's people here that have worked on your year bike..... Or..
Why not ask the experts, you're in the right part of the world and don't have to wait till the early hours of the morning to ring.

EDIT...just re read thread from start, saw 07 Jackpot at bottom of your last post!
Your 01 I know nothing about.....
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the reply. Its actually an 01 v92 deluxe that I'm doing it on. Picked up a second bike. Though I imagine its much the same as the kingpin doesn't seem to have much in the way of clearance either. By the experts, I'm assuming you mean vic shop? I sent an e-mail. I was kinda hesitant to call as I didn't want to bother the guys, especially since its not like I am taking the bike into their shop. Aha, so there is indeed use of rtv. Thought so from the greenish grey crust I see peaking out by the gasket already on the bike...
 

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Thanks for the reply. Its actually an 01 v92 deluxe that I'm doing it on. Picked up a second bike. Though I imagine its much the same as the kingpin doesn't seem to have much in the way of clearance either. By the experts, I'm assuming you mean vic shop? I sent an e-mail. I was kinda hesitant to call as I didn't want to bother the guys, especially since its not like I am taking the bike into their shop. Aha, so there is indeed use of rtv. Thought so from the greenish grey crust I see peaking out by the gasket already on the bike...
Possibly, used sparingly. Don't want it squeezing into anywhere where it can block anything.
I call Kevinx at Southern Motorworx occasionally when I need expert advice, and reassurance that I'm going in the right direction.
 

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iamtheanimal

do us and yourself a favor and add both your bikes to your signature like I ask in red letters
 

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I just read through this thread. I'm now curious, why do do think it has an intake leak? I know you said it pops on acceleration. Are the throttle bodies clean?

I know on my old Kingpin that it needed the throttle bodies cleaned about every 8000 miles or so. When dirty they really made it run rough and pop and fart.

Have you checked your fuel pressure?

BTW, I just remembered, I did have to replace my throttle bodies adapters on that bike due to cracking developed.
 
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