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09 pin with +4 advance timing wheel and VFC3.

Not sure if the vfc3 advances timing or not. Im assuming it doesnt.
On my ride home today I was cruising at around 65mph on the highway, I gave it fuel and swore I heard pinging. I dont hear it any other time.

Any thoughts?
 

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The VFCIII only affects fuel mixture ratios. A timing wheel at +4 is conservative, so if you are using premium fuel and accelerated hard at 65mph and assuming you were in top gear, you were lugging the engine. Keep your revs up, the engine loves it.
 

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basic info
09 pin with +4 advance timing wheel and VFC3.

Not sure if the vfc3 advances timing or not. Im assuming it doesnt.
On my ride home today I was cruising at around 65mph on the highway, I gave it fuel and swore I heard pinging. I dont hear it any other time.

Any thoughts?
On the steel frame bikes, +4° advance seems to be pushing the boundary. Was it also a hot day by any chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It wasn't really hot, 70s around there I think. doubt I was lugging, cause when I do it doesn't ping

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Discussion Starter #6

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basic info
09 pin with +4 advance timing wheel and VFC3.

Not sure if the vfc3 advances timing or not. Im assuming it doesnt.
On my ride home today I was cruising at around 65mph on the highway, I gave it fuel and swore I heard pinging. I dont hear it any other time.

Any thoughts?
If you also have the stage 1 download, you are getting advance from that.... combined with the +4 from the wheel, and you will get ping. +4 is NOT the rule, contrary to what people may think. There are many factors to take into consideration.... each engine is a little different, stage 1 downloads have more advance than the stock download, temperature, humidity, and the load on engine, along with what gear you may be in.
 

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+4 isn't anywhere near the rule on steel frame stage 1 bikes. You're about maxed out without the wheel. Incase you hadn't seen my recent post, I sold my wheel on here yesterday. I was pinging with +1 and stage 1! It did fine during the winter, probably could have gone +2 during winter but wasn't going to mess with it. I installed wheel toward end of last summer. Anyway, last weekend I put 93 octane in (never have old gas since I ride year round), rode a couple hundred miles, the first 100 was fine, the second hundred it got warmer outside, around 80-85 degrees...and began pinging. That let me know right there that I can have no further advance than what I currently have in the summer months (100+ degree temps) so off it came and up for sell it went.

If you're pinging at +4 and it's not even hot yet, I'd drop it down to +2 but even then, you just might ping on the hot days. Good luck to ya!
 

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All the posts I've read seem to indicate that the steel framed bikes don't really need the timing wheel especially with a stage 1 flash. If you set your timing to +1 or +2, I don't know that there would be a noticeable difference especially if pinging is still there. My thoughts would be the same and remove it and sell it. you are not losing much on this one.
 

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All the posts I've read seem to indicate that the steel framed bikes don't really need the timing wheel especially with a stage 1 flash. If you set your timing to +1 or +2, I don't know that there would be a noticeable difference especially if pinging is still there. My thoughts would be the same and remove it and sell it. you are not losing much on this one.
On my particular bike there was still a slightly noticeable difference at +2 but it easily pinged in warm weather. At +1, no noticeable difference.

And I agree that the indication from a lot of us steel frame riders with stage 1 is it's a no go. Lloydz, whitchdoctors, etc should consider putting some fine print on the item page letting folks know that.
 

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i agree with these guys, by using the vfc and timing wheel your over correcting the stage one anyway. my xc i have my wheel at 8 with no ping but the steel frames do seem to have more timing built in.


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Discussion Starter #13
Wow. What makes the steel frame bikes so different in this area. I guess I'll try it on 2, and if it pings is gone. Thanx for all the info

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Wow. What makes the steel frame bikes so different in this area. I guess I'll try it on 2, and if it pings is gone. Thanx for all the info

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I believe the Cross bikes are set up more for touring and low end grunt and the steel frame bikes for more performance. ECU, Cams, and timing are the major differences. I could be wrong but it makes sense?
 

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If you have stage 1 you can have 2 degree advance so at 4 on the wheel you have 6 total on a still lean epa restricted setup. Your tuner should be able to get you richer to compensate. I run 6 on my vegas all day long w pcv set for no advance.
 

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If you have stage 1 you can have 2 degree advance so at 4 on the wheel you have 6 total on a still lean epa restricted setup. Your tuner should be able to get you richer to compensate. I run 6 on my vegas all day long w pcv set for no advance.
Did you read all the posts? You can't have 2 advance on my bike...nor can you have 1 degree advance. There are very few steel frame bikes than can run what you're describing.
 

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yes I did read your post and I will suggest you read other threads where guys with hammers and other vegas riders are running 4+ all day long. I would venture to say YOUR BIKE isn't liking the wheel or you have something else going on. I would hesitate to say 4 is a norm or too much for any bike. I will say the 4 setting is setup for a pretty stock motor with minimal mods. As a matter of fact I ride with four other steel frame bikes that all have the wheel at 4 or more...one guy was able to pull 8 advance on his but it took a long time to get the tuning right with the wheel. The wheel is just like any other mod...it has to be adjusted accordingly for EACH bike and while Lloyd says 4 is a good starting point it is still up to the owner to make sure their bike will run with it. If you get ping back off the timing or get into your controller if you have one and adjust your fueling accordingly. The only fine print that needs to be on there is your results may be different....but then again lloyds does state that sometimes you may need to retard your timing in order to get the best results in certain areas.
 

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yes I did read your post and I will suggest you read other threads where guys with hammers and other vegas riders are running 4+ all day long. I would venture to say YOUR BIKE isn't liking the wheel or you have something else going on. I would hesitate to say 4 is a norm or too much for any bike. I will say the 4 setting is setup for a pretty stock motor with minimal mods. As a matter of fact I ride with four other steel frame bikes that all have the wheel at 4 or more...one guy was able to pull 8 advance on his but it took a long time to get the tuning right with the wheel. The wheel is just like any other mod...it has to be adjusted accordingly for EACH bike and while Lloyd says 4 is a good starting point it is still up to the owner to make sure their bike will run with it. If you get ping back off the timing or get into your controller if you have one and adjust your fueling accordingly. The only fine print that needs to be on there is your results may be different....but then again lloyds does state that sometimes you may need to retard your timing in order to get the best results in certain areas.
I've been around partner, I've read the threads. Which is why I say very few steel frame bikes can run what you're saying. The majority on this specific thread has read and come to the same conclusion as I because they've noticed that most steel frame bikes can't run 4 degrees without pinging. My bike aint alone...it seems my bike is the majority.
 

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listen if you want to start a campaign go for it...my point is there are other factors to look at when something isn't working correctly. I know for a fact dealer flashes aren't great...have you given a thought to that...or maybe the fueler isn't setup correctly. no can't be that it must be the engine builder who has "been around" longer than all of us. if the wheel isn't working you should look at why. if you are getting ping w 1 over a flash then i doubt the wheel is the issue.
 

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I didn't see where he has stage 1
You might have the VFC111 set to lean at that rpm
Call Rylan at the Vick shop and ask him. Tell him every thing you have done to the bike. What you hold back will hurt you.
Rylan can give you a map that might be better then what you have
http://thevicshop.com/Contact.html
 
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