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Discussion Starter #1
i am thinking about getting a shift light and wanted some suggestions
 

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Hmmm... Not a bad idea... I was thinking something like that would be better than a tach on the bike. Don't know what's out there, but I was thinking something that changed color depending on RPM. For example, Blue at 4000, Green at 4500, Yellow at 5000 and Red at 5500. Otherwise it would be dark and you'd never see it coming on if you're just cruising.

Like I said, I don't know what's out there... If I don't see one, I might just build one.
 

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if your racing all the time its good being constant on the track not much good for every day riding. If you don't know they have differing pills for different shifting points.
Waist of money in my book
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i just want one for when i go to the track.i was wondering if anyone had one that plugs in to the pc-v.that way i can take it off when i am not running the bike.
 

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i am thinking about getting a shift light and wanted some suggestions
Here's my suggestion:

1. Hold throttle wide open
2. Apply upward pressure to shifter
3. Do not release throttle
4. When RPM 'bobbles' at the rev limiter your bike will shift.
5. Do not attempt with a Harley.
 

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A piece of red tape is really cheap and effective. Or even easier, you can just mark the tach with a sharpie at the shift point.

Being that the tach is right up there in your face, it's easy to see... plus you will want to try varying shift rpm to find what gives the best time and the tape or sharpie mark are easy to change...

 

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I always run better times if I shift well below the rev limiter...
Me too. The torque curve is what should dictate your shift point. Either a dyno chart like yours (very nice numbers btw) that can give you a place to start fine tuning your shift point or even a 'seat of the pants' feeling combined with multiple ET's. In spite of my comment (I can be a little hard on things) I agree that WOT is not always the best option for reduced ET's.

On a different note (highjacker alert) are you running any kind of electronic shifter like PC or Pingel?

I will try to get a dyno chart up for my Highball this summer.
 

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Me too. The torque curve is what should dictate your shift point. Either a dyno chart like yours (very nice numbers btw) that can give you a place to start fine tuning your shift point or even a 'seat of the pants' feeling combined with multiple ET's. In spite of my comment (I can be a little hard on things) I agree that WOT is not always the best option for reduced ET's.
I gotta have an analog tach, it would be impossible to be consistant without one. On the old motor I got best ET shifting at 5600 rpm (limiter at 5800). The new motor makes power out to higher revs so I shift at 6200 (limiter at 6700).





On a different note (highjacker alert) are you running any kind of electronic shifter like PC or Pingel?
Nope. I do things the old fashioned way. This is my daily driver and I don't change a single thing at the track. It's just like I ride it every day. I could jack up the rear shock as stiff as it'll go, strap the front end down, let air out of the rear tire, run it with just a gallon of race gas in it... but what I want to know is what it will do right here-right now. I don't even do a burnout. Since the final tune it picked up some power so I'm pretty sure it'll dip into the 11.50s in full street trim and full of gas.

What sort of power are you making and what sort of ETs are you layin' down? Is that exhaust hot or in the way?
 

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I gotta have an analog tach, it would be impossible to be consistant without one. On the old motor I got best ET shifting at 5600 rpm (limiter at 5800). The new motor makes power out to higher revs so I shift at 6200 (limiter at 6700).







Nope. I do things the old fashioned way. This is my daily driver and I don't change a single thing at the track. It's just like I ride it every day. I could jack up the rear shock as stiff as it'll go, strap the front end down, let air out of the rear tire, run it with just a gallon of race gas in it... but what I want to know is what it will do right here-right now. I don't even do a burnout. Since the final tune it picked up some power so I'm pretty sure it'll dip into the 11.50s in full street trim and full of gas.

What sort of power are you making and what sort of ETs are you layin' down? Is that exhaust hot or in the way?

I haven't done any runs with this bike so no ET's available. Would like to do some 1/4 mile runs in the next two weeks and will post the results when I get them.
As for power numbers Trask claims 135HP and 125Torque at the wheel but thats on a 100ci and @ 5800rpm so without a dyno run I would just be guessing. I am running a PC-V with the auto tune unit piggy backed on Trask's fuel map so I haven't had to dyno-tune and don't have any numbers. I haven't 'tickled' my rev limiter yet either.

The exhaust is warm for sure and riding position needs to be adjusted a little but I have moved the controls forward about 6". The stock pegs and controls would all but eliminate any heat issues.
 
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