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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone Use a Venhill Clutch Cable Kit $23!!!!!

Hi--

I need a new clutch cable and in my search of the internet found theres maybe a slight preference for the Barnett cable over the OEM. But I also turned up this kit from Venhill: http://www.venhillusa.com/catalog/cable-kits-and-parts/cable-kits/venhill-universal-motorcycle-clutch-cable-kit.html

In old threads there is one guy from New Zealand (karmobRob here on this website) that said he successfully used the kit on a Vic. Can anyone else report success in using it on a Victory? Its only $22.98 (plus shipping)! But before I order would be nice to have some reassurance that its a workable and long-lasting solution.

Thanks--Rob
 

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Hi--

I need a new clutch cable and in my search of the internet found theres maybe a slight preference for the Barnett cable over the OEM. But I also turned up this kit from Venhill: http://www.venhillusa.com/catalog/cable-kits-and-parts/cable-kits/venhill-universal-motorcycle-clutch-cable-kit.html

In old threads there is one guy from New Zealand that has said he successfully used the kit on a Vic. Can anyone else report success in using it on a Victory? Its only $22.98 (plus shipping)! But before I order would be nice to have some reassurance that its a workable and long-lasting solution.

Thanks--Rob
Can't see why it wouldn't work but it seems more like a sav-u-ride replacement than a stock replacement. Just thinking it will come loose at sometime and need more adjustment. Maybe some Loctite will keep it in place but once it stretches your gonna need to adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
shanko-- Is there something about it that makes you think it would stretch more than any other cable? Is it thinner gauge than a Barnett or OEM? If so, maybe I missed that.

Is the Sav-U-Ride a bolt together approach? I've seen them online but never in person.

Once you complete building the Venhill cable, both ends are permanently soldered just like a cable you would buy from Barnett or Victory.
 

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Haven't seen a sav-ur-ride so I'm not sure. Also I don't know which type of cable either use. Really shouldn't matter about the cable stretch because you can always tighten it. Just keep an eye on it and keep the proper play and you should be good. At the price I would get 2 so you have a spare with you just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I found this other link (see below) about the Venhill and it says they use galvanized wire and not stainless--unlike Barnett or Victory or everyone else, I would guess. They use galvanized for ease of soldering by the do it yourselfer.

The downside is it has less corrosion resistance. So it'll be important to keep it lubed.

But it just dawned on me that there could be a real upside for use in Victorys. Stainless is made by mixing chrome with the steel. Makes it 'stainless', but chrome is very brittle. For instance, I worked around the oil industry and stainless is considered unsafe to use in many high pressure applications there, because its brittleness can lead to catastrophic failure. For the same reason, galvanized wire has greater tensile strength and also greater fatigue strength than stainless.

Would think galvanized cable would be a real advantage given Victory's known tendency to eat clutch cables!

Here's that other link from Venhill, where they give instructions on how to complete the kit:
http://www.venhill.co.uk/Downloads/CableConstruction.pdf
 

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At 23 bucks I wish I had found it when I needed on on my 01 victory.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Gidday yourself, Rob!--

Seems you're the only guy around with Venhill on Victory experience. And looks like the kit you bought, although prettier, is the same functionally as the $23 kit here in the US, with the same galvanized inner cable and teflon-lined outer cable.

As you mentioned in your PM you have 45,000 km (28,000 miles) and 2 years on yours and still looks like new. Thats a powerful endorsement. Thanks for checking in!

I've got one ordered. But I think I'll have to also buy a mid-cable adjuster as the adjuster on my existing cable seized and snapped. Based on your experience I think its gonna work out well.

BTW how often do you lube the cable and the ends and what kind of oil and grease do you use?

Any tips for the rest of us on getting a strong solder connection?

Thanks -- Rob
 

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If the soldering is up to scratch, and the ends are kept lubed so they swivel in their housings, there is no reason the cables shouldn't last for years. The reason inner cables fail is the cable comes out of the ferrule [bad solder] or the inner cable breaks [frays] near the ends and that is caused by the inner continuously bending because the ferrule doesn't swivel [lack of lube].
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great Customer Service and $15 "Sav-Ur-Ride"

I had some questions for Venhill and sent them an email over the weekend. I got a reply from Chris over at Venhill at 10:30 pm on Sunday. Pretty amazing cutomer service.

I did confirm for almost everybody the $23 kit should be all they need. This assumes you reuse your mid-cable adjuster and the chrome tubing coming out of the adjuster and going over to the primary case and clutch arm.

I should also mention that when on the Venhill site I noticed a $15 cable fix kit. I asked Chris if its good for clutch cables and he said absolutely. They recommend that its a temporary fix and should be replaced with a permanent clutch cable as soon as possible. $15 sounds a lot better than $45 for a Sav-Ur-Ride, so thought I would mention it here. But of course somebody will need to take the leap to try it and let us all know its as good.
 
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