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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I am approaching my 30,000 checkup on my 04 V92TC and had a few quesitons on the maintenance side other than the obvious visuals, plugs, etc. that I see as being beyond what I am equiped to handle or would like some input. I am a year round rider with our area winter temps in the low 20's / high teens at worst. Summer high 90s.


Mono shock: It says replace or rebuild. Having looked at replacement cost of $700 from a couple differnt sites, my wallet does not see that happening. I also was planning on having the lowering clevis installed (have not ordered it yet but got the qoute) or working that in myself during this down time. Any guidance from those who have had their mono rebuilt? or what are other options, anything reasonable beyond OEM?

Fuel filter: I have not opened the tank the times I have had it off so am skeptical about the owners manual saying special tools required by dealer to replace this. Should I just take the tank to the dealer and if so does anyone have a good idea on what I should be expecting for cost or is this something that can be done on my bench. I have not called for a qoute yet, but will this week.

Fork oil: Anything special other than changing this out? I am planning on trying 7w vs the 7-10w to see if it dampens the jolts on the front end and also to test in cold weather vs hot.

Plugs: Was planning on sticking with stock. Thoughts?

Brake pads: I have seen several thoughts on pads, I am doing the back during this down time just to get it knocked out. Im not heavy on the back brake but I am sure making alot of dust. Thinking this goes back to the thoughts that vic pads are softer and wear faster.

Drive belt: Either been replaced at the 20,000 when previous owner had it in shop or it is in really good shape. When the time comes, brand that would do best or stay OEM?

As always, thanks again for the responses! Great group of folks here with a wealth of knowledge.

Tim :D
 

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My motto has always been "if it aint broke dont fix it" So change the oil and filter,change fork oil if you want to (if it dont leak I wouldnt mess with it)mono shock when you take it off the put on the clevis check the orings and grease the pivot bearings again if it is working dont mess with it.Fuel filter if running good and not having problems change it if you want but......
Brake pads and belt should be check when changing oil and changed when needed not at a certain mileage.
Service intervals in the manuals are for folks who dont know how to or dont do their own maintenance.You stay up on it along the way and it is no problem
 

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Mono shock: It says replace or rebuild. Having looked at replacement cost of $700 from a couple differnt sites, my wallet does not see that happening. I also was planning on having the lowering clevis installed (have not ordered it yet but got the qoute) or working that in myself during this down time. Any guidance from those who have had their mono rebuilt? or what are other options, anything reasonable beyond OEM?
Suspensions die gradually. Rider's generally doesn't notice how bad their's is until they get a new one.

Fork oil: Anything special other than changing this out? I am planning on trying 7w vs the 7-10w to see if it dampens the jolts on the front end and also to test in cold weather vs hot.
This will probably be your most noticeable improvement. Amazing how fast that stuff goes bad (10-15k miles) and how long people ride on it. Anyway, if you're a preventative maintenance type of guy, you may want to change the seals while you're in there.

Plugs: Was planning on sticking with stock. Thoughts?
They've taken you 30k miles over the last 7 years, no?

Brake pads: I have seen several thoughts on pads, I am doing the back during this down time just to get it knocked out. Im not heavy on the back brake but I am sure making alot of dust. Thinking this goes back to the thoughts that vic pads are softer and wear faster.
I hadn't heard that Vics have soft pads. Any idea who makes them or what they are made of?

Here's some general info from Wiki:

Brake pad materials range from asbestos to organic or semi-metallic formulations. Each of these materials has proven to have advantages and disadvantages regarding environmental friendliness, wear, noise, and stopping capability. Semi-metallic pads provide strength and conduct heat away from rotors but also generate noise and are abrasive enough to increase rotor wear.

Ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers accommodate higher temperatures with less heat fade and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. They also provide much quieter operation due to the ceramic compound that helps dampen noise by shifting its resonant frequency beyond the human hearing range and reduced metal use (approximately 15% metal content by weight). Ceramic brake pads typically are suited for light-duty applications and not severe duty applications as encountered by medium duty trucks, etc.

There are environmental factors that govern the selection of brake pad materials. For example, recent legislation in Washington State (SSB 6557) and other states will limit the amount of copper that is allowed to be used in friction materials, to be eventually phased out to trace amounts. Other materials like antimony compounds will be monitored as well.

Asbestos was widely used in pads for its heat resistance but, due to health risks, has been replaced with alternative materials, such as mineral fibers, cellulose, aramid, PAN, chopped glass, steel, and copper fibers. Depending on material properties, disc wear rates vary. The properties that determine material wear involve trade-offs between performance and longevity. Newer pads can be made of exotic materials like ceramics, aramid fibres, and other plastics.

Vehicles have different braking requirements. Friction materials offer application-specific formulas and designs. Brake pads with a higher coefficient of friction provide good braking with less brake pedal pressure requirement, but tend to lose efficiency at higher temperatures, increasing stopping distance. Brake pads with a smaller and constant coefficient of friction don’t lose efficiency at higher temperatures and are stable, but require higher brake pedal pressure.
 

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Don't replace the belt

Leave the fuel filter alone. I know guys with 80 and 90 thousand on there bike with no fuel problems. Your new here but in the past three years I have never read where some one had a fuel filter problem.

I don;t see where your shock could be bad. I don't believe that Vic would put a part on our bikes that wears or or needs rebuilding every 30 thousand no one would buy something that didn't last.

Spark plugs are cheap change ever other year or every year no biggie

There is EBC brake pads that have way better stopping power

You might need a special tool to change the fork oil or pull the forks and pay the dealer to change it.

None of the above has to be done by the dear if you document it and save resets.
 

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My advice don't spill the fork oil!!! That stuff stinks bad.

You're welcome. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Catching up on some thanks for assistance from this forums users and fellow Vic riders out there.

30K came and went with the TC running STRONG as ever.

Forks: Went back to Vic Oil as I had a seal leaking that was giving me fits so dropped it by AllOut Cycles in Chesapeake Va and they replaced and repacked. Front end is SWEETER than every. Will just do oil next round and experiment some with different weights..

Mono Shock/Fuel filter. Leaving well enough alone. Readjusted Mono and riding great. Still haven't installed the clevis... On the TODO list.

Brake pads: Front still hangin strong, Rear are VIC OEM now. Will track milage. Going with EBC on front when their due.

Plugs: Stock NGC and change em every 5K now with every other oil change so I track the fuel mix and be more like Vindex.. lol..

Drive belt: I don't drive it hard and belt is looking good still. Will replace when I pull the rear tire at the same time for nothing else to have a spare on my next saddle sore... lol.

A couple things I didn't put in the original post and wanted to say thanks for was to Plowtown for the BigSucker K&N and getting over that stock air box as well as the folks that posted about how/when to clean the TB's. Both significant improvements in the power train performance.

This is a great forum and I appreciated everyones help. Hope to continue to return the favors to the new users. Thanks all!
 
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