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A brace of Victorys and Buicks.
It's USA all the way here on Australia Day!
2 Buicks and 2 Victorys!
Can't get any better than that!
All you need now is a **** load of guns and a 5th of Jack Daniels :wink
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Mate that's the last thing I need.
Sober and secure here.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
One drink is too many and a thousand is not enough.
For me....I've had my fill and more
 

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back to my bike, the slop in the shifter is in here, gonna pull it apart and have a look.
It's a common issue on these bikes. The bushings linked to earlier say they are for the foot brake lever and the shift lever. It has been so many years since I did mine; I don't remember if they have the plastic bushings but I think they do. Those bronze ones will fix you up permanently.

If I remember right; I had to massage my new bushings a bit to get them to fit the way they should. I don't remember if it was inner, outer, or both. Some Emory cloth did the trick.
 

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Take yr fight elsewhere please children,
Now back to my bike, the slop in the shifter is in here, gonna pull it apart and have a look.
Yes thats were the plastic bushing is, you can replace them with messing bushings

AliExpress
Amazon
Ebay

All has them

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Take yr fight elsewhere please children,
Now back to my bike, the slop in the shifter is in here, gonna pull it apart and have a look.
That's what I was talking about, they have junk plastic bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok got that the best I'm gonna get it for now...immediate problem is when I took the footboars off the spring released now htf do I get it back in?
The spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Got em, just force the little feckrr back in with a big screwdriver!
 

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The 2010 models have a hexagon shaft like the Vision. Went to the round shaft with the bushing in 2011 I believe. You can add a washer to take up the slack on the pin. I think it's easier to remove the mounting block with shifter attached for access to the pin. remove linkage and pull the bolt for the position setting. Then you can slide the mounting block out of the floorboard mount. I used a brass washer that I sanded down to take up the slack on my 10 XR. Took some time to get the thickness right, but took care of the slop.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yes! Thank You!..exactly, that's what I found and was dumbfounded so moly greased and reassembled as I was missing valuable riding time.
The slop isn't so much sideways as it is up and down or back and forward if you get my drift?
Took whole unit outta slider and there seem to be play in that he's couldn't be sure.
Anyway was gonna move it back closer but the adjustment on the shift rod was frozen closest to the engine and spray and tapping would budge it , tried my heat gun too but not too hot cos I suspect a plastic bush in the rose joint.
Anyway back together and riding and apart from imprecise shifts she is total joy to ride.
Had the music cranking and must apologise for poking **** on music listening riders.
It's fun! Carving mountains with AC DC ( old Bon Scott edition) is high on the manic scale, hehe!
The lean angle is insane, ain't scraped her yet, off for more today, c ya!
 

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Might be worth looking for a used linkage on ebay to have on hand if you can't get it freed up. I still have some movement in my shifter, but the washer helped big time. Would be nice to have a brass bushing in the sides of the mounting block.
 

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Sorry MBX, I'm a little slow on the take--just realized we're talking about a loose shifter on a 2010 with a hex arrangement for the shifter pivot. Here's what I did to eliminate that slack. With the assembly off the bike, I drilled through the shifter and the hex shaft, first making certain they were oriented and aligned correctly. The hole I drilled was for a smallish tension / roll pin. Placed them back on the bike and tapped the pin in, sinking it a bit under the surface to facilitate drifting it out when need be. Otherwise the length of the pin is equal to the diameter of the pivot end of the shifter.
The pin will eventually loosen and when it does, I will drill for and insert the next size up roll pin. I was thinking of drilling and tapping for a screw to be inserted, but thought a pin would be just as effective, a lot easier and will provide for stepping up to larger pins when needed.
 

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Mine wasn't so much shifter to shaft as it was shaft to mounting block. That shimming washer and the spring washer helped. Both areas can compound the problem. After I upgraded to the heel toe shifter, there is no slack on the sifter to shaft. I had to file the shifter to get the shaft to even fit. Sure like the heel toe shifter better anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hmmmm food for thought....
 

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Yeah; obviously the shifter linkage needs to be lubed from time to time or the shifting action will bind. You should probably watch the Vic Shop video below if you haven't already. Till now you didn't really have a need. Well; I guess your 2010 Vegas puts you in there but with an XC you have more things to be aware of.

 

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floor boards & linkage.

Motorbikerx do not know how far you want or need to move your floor boards or controls back. On my 2011 XR the back of the foot brake lever is basically within 1/4" of the rear header pipe. I am 5'7" , so the dealer I originally got the bike from moved everything back. I believe they drilled out the next hole back on the frame for the floor boards and mounted them with longer bolts. If you need them back further than stock you might consider this. Enjoy the new bike. On the 2010 the trans seemed to be a bet sloppy, but on the 2011 they went to the tighter transmission. Some of the 2011 bikes ended up with torque compensators that get noisey after a few miles and when they are hot. My bike is one of the noisey one. It bugs me when it is very hot out in lower gears going slow. My old bike has 60K miles on it now. Other than that it is ok. It is a fixable issue just takes more $$$ which I just have not had, ear plugs are cheaper! Sounds like you got a great deal!
 

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My method was to go to a seat customizer and he modded the saddle to move me forward an inch. That REALLY helped. I did not want pull back bars, they get in m way when getting on and off the bike.
 

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Directly flashing doesn't replace cams but it does replace need for timing wheel. You directly change the timing in the ECU itself.
This. Plus 'direct flash' units' have significantly more capability than a PC-V or 'fuel controllers'.
 
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