Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally got my Vic in April (been wanting one since 2011 test ride), went to fire it up yesterday and just heard a >click<, in neutral and 1st gear. Battery is reading 12.5V with ignition on, drops to 11.9-12.1v when pressing the start switch. Cluster and headlights are bright. She's a 2011 XC with 14k miles, previous owner just changed the oil, but its looking pretty greyish.

She's been running just fine, except occasionally would just give me a partial turn over and freeze, but would start up on the next button press or 2.

Did some research on some of the other threads on here. This is what I've tried:

-Confirmed voltage to solenoid.
-Confirmed voltage past solenoid (and to the starter) with start switch pressed.
-Jumped (+) battery terminal to bolt terminal on starter. Nothing happened, not a hum, click, or even an arc/spark.
-Pulled my Corolla beside it and WITH THE ENGINE OFF connected the batteries as if to jump it. Same solitary >click<.

-She moves fine in neutral, but I cannot get her to move in 6th, though I havent tried rolling her down the parking ramp and popping the clutch at 5-10mph b/c I'm afraid of dumping her or further screwing up the problem. I DO hear the fuel pump engange and something whiring behind my right leg when rocking her back in forth in 6th.

I'm going to recheck all the connections in a few minutes, and try grounding the starter case to the (-) terminal of the battery and hitting the start switch. Also might try pulling her back while pressing start.

Any advice would be great, or how to confirm my engine isnt seized. I'm taking/towing her to Stroker's in Dallas tomorrow, where the new starter will be $500ish installed. I'd do it myself (found aftermarkets for ~$100), but I live in an apartment and really don't have a good spot to take off the exhaust and keep it pretty.

Thanks for the help, sorry for the long post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I'd remove the spark plugs so you aren't fighting compression.

If the starter is marginal it may rotate the engine (though it sounds as if the starter is dead - I agree with your testing methodology) and if necessary. you will be able to confirm the engine moves by rotating the rear wheel with the bike in gear.

I don't get the "keeping it pretty" bit with the exhaust. I'd trashbag it and stash in my apartment so I didn't leave a bunch of stuff exposed. An exhaust pull is pretty basic. When ever I reinstall an exhaust I use anti-seize on the hardware. If you want to keep your hands clean (and work faster without being interrupted by cleaning them) disposable gloves are outstanding. I grab whatever nitriles are handy at the auto store.

EDIT:
Good point on the battery connections including ground (ensure they are inspected before installing a new starter) but direct jumping with jumper cables would bypass that issue if you had good contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Do you guys have any experience with aftermarket starters?

The mechanic at Strokers (a very reputable Victory and Chopper centric dealer/shop/saloon, I think they even had their own show on some network at one point) said she'd had nothing but trouble from them.

EDIT: Also, some one made off with lot of my tools, so I'm down to a few basic wrenches, drivers, crescent, etc. No lifts, no jacks, and no sockets. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
If jumping a battery from a good car battery with auto not running and you have good contact, starter should turn engine over.

Nominal Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) of a twelve volt LEAD ACID battery is 2.10 volts/cell making 12.4 a reasonable open circuit measurement. Charging voltage with motorcycle running will be per manufacturers specs.

I've not used any Victory aftermarket starters (I've done very little Vic work so far since while I part-time at a multibrand shop I don't own one yet but I've decades of other mc/auto experience and all this is VERY basic) but I would avoid them until an aftermarket PERFORMANCE brand has established itself and PROVEN their specific product.

I don't buy generic aftermarket starters for other brands because starters never die at convenient times.

A skilled local rebuilder can overhaul anything if he can get parts but unless it was cheap and I were starving I'd cough up for a new original equipment starter.

Save the money by doing your own labor if possible, but don't skimp on parts. One towing bill easily erases any "savings" from the false economy of low quality electrics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,208 Posts
A local rebuilder worth his salt can take a fragged OE starter and give you back something that is better than new for considerably less than a shelf factory starter.

Problem with rebuilders is time, not value. You have to wait.

Anyway this is the cart pulling the horse. Did I miss the part where the starter is the culprit. Could be but the relay switch might be, the neutral switch, there's a bunch of electrojunk items on these bikes that can make your day suck. None of them are particularly likely to fail but before I ran right out and bought another starter (and paid Strokers labor rates which I bet are higher than shops that don't have dancing girls) I might run the traps on the lesser demons.

Or not. There's worse sins than putting a new starter on your bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
One of the cheapest and easiest things you can do is have the battery load tested. Most auto parts stores will do it for free. I once had a battery go bad and it did the same thing you are describing.Voltage checked out at 12.7 and each cell read good with a hydrometer. I even had someone try and jump start it and it did nothing but click and even put a huge load on the jump vehicle that its engine slowed down. Turns out it had a shorted cell. Bought new battery and all was good. This may or may not be your problem but easy to find out for sure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
OP did bypass all relays/"electrojunk" to starter with jumper cable but NOT while using another battery.

He checked voltage but didn't load check the bike battery. He did jump using the car battery which "SHOULD" have rotated the starter since he did switchology checks, but an optional check he didn't do is simply to use ONLY car battery + jumpers to attempt to spin the starter motor DIRECTLY (not via battery which might have a shorted cell) thus bypassing EVERYTHING other than the starter motor.

Of course a weak battery can do rude things to starters if the button is held long enough to overheat them so his total bill may be quite unpleasant. I hope he gets lucky.

If you DIY buy a load checker, a voltmeter, and a battery charger to ensure you can properly test and charge any vehicle battery you own.

I also suggest a jump starting pack which will cover your car/pickup/motorcycle. (I quit buying lawn mower batteries and jump using my pack instead. Never goes dead because it doesn't sit idle very long.) I use a JNC which I bought after flogging one at a used car lot where we jumped "yard sitters" as well as rotated salvage engines to ensure they turned over. No extra BS to fail, no switch, and no stupid folding 110 male charging plug which commonly breaks on Schauer chargers:

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6[/ame]

Example load tester.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7612-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B0009XQUJI/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1433720968&sr=1-9&keywords=battery+load+tester[/ame]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Well I finally got my Vic in April (been wanting one since 2011 test ride), went to fire it up yesterday and just heard a >click<, in neutral and 1st gear. Battery is reading 12.5V with ignition on, drops to 11.9-12.1v when pressing the start switch.
Kind of an old thread, but if it's only pulling down to 12v with the starter button engaged then it isn't putting power to the starter. A locked rotor on a starter would probably pull about 30 amps or more and pull the voltage down to like 3v if not less. I'm guessing the solenoid is fine, probably burnt a winding or a brush in the starter.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,177 Posts
to push start a bike you have to disconnect the clutch switch.
Sounds like your sprag gear on the starter is shot.


Turn key on volt gauge shows you how strong the battery is.
Once you start the bike the volt gauge shows you that the charging system is working or not
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
My guess, and only a guess, is the starter clutch is not working. I had almost identical symptoms and the starter clutch was replaced under warranty. I have had no problems since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
This happened on my 2011 Vegas last year. Turned bike off to stop for a swing bridge. Click click nothing happened when tried to start it. Pulled into a parking lot tried to figure it out. Fellow biker stopped gave me a running push in 2nd gear dropped clutch fired right up. Drove it to dealer. Starter was done had the starter rebuilt.

No problems, then I traded it on my new magnumthumb up
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,946 Posts
No reply forthcoming from the OP it seems, may remain a mystery.
Electrical mysteries are a bastard.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top