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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So according to my owners manual the belt deflection spec for the 2016 Hammer S (after 500 miles) is 6mm, +/- .5mm. I noticed that the 2008 Hammer service manual that I recently downloaded calls for 12mm. That's a huge difference. Granted the 2008 manual is citing the 100Ci motor, but sill I wouldn't think the belt deflection would be much different. I also see that Victory changed the rear shock from 3.9" to 3", which changed the ride height specs, so maybe that's a factor. With my bike currently just over 100 miles, I have right now about 10 to 12 mm deflection (cold belt) with the rear tire NOT off the ground, and after doing some modest riding the belt being warm is snug.

Usually raising the rear off the ground will increase chain/belt slack. I'm not concerned about the current belt deflection right now, but after 500 miles I will do an adjustment. Can anyone confirm that the 6mm spec is correct for a 2016 model year? That seems really tight given that its with the rear tire elevated and with the bike and belt being cold.

http://www.victoryforums.com/8-victory-kingpin-forum/7484-drive-belt-tension.html

http://www.victoryforums.com/36-victory-tech-performance-section/99290-50-miles-home-screwed.html

And by the way, I checked the tire pressures and both front and rear were in the mid 20's psi even though the dealer assured me he had prep the bike and inflated the tires per spec of 38/41.
 

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Yup you go over that bike inside out, and follow that manual... It is a good one.... I printed it in A3 size for easy reading....

Drive Belt = it isn't that difficult, but if the steel frames manual says "lift the rear wheel" than that is what you should do, also to spin it freely in reverse and then forward

If you can twist the belt 90° with 2 finger both ways it should be fine

I set my tires at 45 PSI.... Nothing wrong with that, don't run them under 35 PSI , coz you will wear them out faster



Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you go over that bike inside out, and follow that manual.
That's the question...which manual? My owners manual which cites 6mm, or that 2008 service manual which cites 12mm?
Honestly, based on reading the threads that I posted, and based on how my belt behaves and the current deflection I won't be going with the 6mm spec.
 

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That's the question...which manual? My owners manual which cites 6mm, or that 2008 service manual which cites 12mm?
Honestly, based on reading the threads that I posted, and based on how my belt behaves and the current deflection I won't be going with the 6mm spec.
Just try 12 then? Or the 90° with 2 finger that works GOOD.... You don't want too tight or too loose for squiking noises ... But I think you have to raise your wheel of the floor ....

See the Divice I home made I use it on both vics and my friend HD


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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I would err on the side of caution and go with the looser spec. A too-tight belt can ruin engine pulley bearings.
I 2nd that. I run mine a little losser than recommended. I know the kingpin low had different specs than the std model. Not sure about your model.
 

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So according to my owners manual the belt deflection spec for the 2016 Hammer S (after 500 miles) is 6mm, +/- .5mm. I noticed that the 2008 Hammer service manual that I recently downloaded calls for 12mm.

And by the way, I checked the tire pressures and both front and rear were in the mid 20's psi even though the dealer assured me he had prep the bike and inflated the tires per spec of 38/41.
OK so if you have a 2016 then ONLY read the 2016 or "so" manuals, this means as per below, i stated in second post...

1 motorcycle in upright position
2 elevate rear wheel
3 follow the manual for deflection

As a sample picture attached for sequence.....

Anyway I have a 2013 Jackpot and follow an average of 6 to 12 mm and never had a problem


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 
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I'm going to throw a monkey wrench into these works with this...........
When hot, my belt would get guitar string tight even though I adjusted exactly to spec with a belt gauge. Got to chatting about it with MBX, whom I consider quite the Vic guru and he said loosen it until there's some slack in it when hot. Makes sense to me and I think the belt and bearings are now a lot happier. Too simple.
 

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I'm going to throw a monkey wrench into these works with this...........
When hot, my belt would get guitar string tight even though I adjusted exactly to spec with a belt gauge. Got to chatting about it with MBX, whom I consider quite the Vic guru and he said loosen it until there's some slack in it when hot. Makes sense to me and I think the belt and bearings are now a lot happier. Too simple.
Yeah keep it simple.
Bike parked on stand is easy.
Poke up with your finger midway along the lower run of your belt.
If bikes cold youll have more slack, about an inch.
After a decent ride to get everything hot try poking it again and youll find its tightened up considerably but should still have some 'give' in it as you push up.
If it hasnt then its too tight and too tight is no good at all.
Better a bit loose than too tight.

After the initial break in then it should stay the same and not need to be messed with.
Dont let the place that changes your tyres mess with adjustment at all.
No need to.
Just keep it simple....

Even so I still give my belt an occasional poke just to check, Im a bit OCD that way.
Same goes for clutch freeplay too.
And I cant walk past a MIG, Oxy, or LPG bottle without checking that the tap is securely Off.
Easy to check. Keep it Simple.:smile
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm going to throw a monkey wrench into these works with this...........
When hot, my belt would get guitar string tight even though I adjusted exactly to spec with a belt gauge. Got to chatting about it with MBX, whom I consider quite the Vic guru and he said loosen it until there's some slack in it when hot. Makes sense to me and I think the belt and bearings are now a lot happier. Too simple.
I agree with you and Motobikerx. You would think that Victory would have figured this out by now and would have published an accurate spec in the owners manual. 6mm cold and with wheel off the ground would make a hot belt so tight it can't be right. So much for investing in a tension gauge tool. I'm new to belt drive systems, but just my experience in seeing how the belt changes between cold and hot tells me to be careful, and not to use the 6mm spec. I have a Yamaha FZ-09 in which the owners manual also provides an inaccurate and dangerous chain slack spec. WTF.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK so if you have a 2016 then ONLY read the 2016 or "so" manuals, this means as per below, i stated in second post...
So...what year or years model is this for? What I downloaded was a 2008 model year manual, which was the latest model year I could find. Is there a download for the 2016 model year? If so, I didn't see it. Thanks.
 

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So...what year or years model is this for? What I downloaded was a 2008 model year manual, which was the latest model year I could find. Is there a download for the 2016 model year? If so, I didn't see it. Thanks.
Same 2008 manual.... Don't over think the belt deflection, it is more important that the belt stays free on the rear pulley, even slightly to the left, due to acceleration will pull the belt to the right....

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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I never understood why you rotate the wheel backwards. Victory is the only one that says this. Would it be because we have only one shock. We ride forward so why not rotate the wheel forward when adjusting. When you roll the wheel backwards the front pulley guides it and when you roll wheel forward the rear sprocket guides it. With the rear pulley getting hot and expanding that would tighten the belt. Once the belt has a good 500 miles on it its stretch and will not stretch any more. Its a shame victory could come up with a better way of aligning the rear wheel
 

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I never understood why you rotate the wheel backwards. Victory is the only one that says this. Would it be because we have only one shock. We ride forward so why not rotate the wheel forward when adjusting. When you roll the wheel backwards the front pulley guides it and when you roll wheel forward the rear sprocket guides it. With the rear pulley getting hot and expanding that would tighten the belt. Once the belt has a good 500 miles on it its stretch and will not stretch any more. Its a shame victory could come up with a better way of aligning the rear wheel
Mate.....its perfect!...Set and Forget...
Its people that complicate it.
Rotate this , buy this, jack it up, bullshit.
Polaris is to blame with ridiculous instructions.

Use my method and
Keep It Simple .

We all have a measuring tool on at hand.
Except Mags got half of one :eek

and its the front pulley that does most of the expanding.
 

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I agree with you and Motobikerx. You would think that Victory would have figured this out by now and would have published an accurate spec in the owners manual. 6mm cold and with wheel off the ground would make a hot belt so tight it can't be right. So much for investing in a tension gauge tool. I'm new to belt drive systems, but just my experience in seeing how the belt changes between cold and hot tells me to be careful, and not to use the 6mm spec. I have a Yamaha FZ-09 in which the owners manual also provides an inaccurate and dangerous chain slack spec. WTF.
yeah on my Kingpin I had to try a couple settings. it is odd that I actually found 2 specs on it, the newest one was looser!

I did the first one I found ( as well as the dealer mechanic recommendation ) and it was too damn tight. Second one, relayed by a more experienced dealer mechanic told me to loosen it. If I remember, the 1st spec showed 10, the second showed 12. I'd have to actually loook but its been working fine for 3 years at the looser spec.

Polaris seemed to have no clue and I think many people had noise issues because the original spec was too tight to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I wrote an email to the Vic Shop, since these guys are highly familiar with the Victory machines, and do everything from engine replacement to general maintenance. I cited the official deflection spec of 6 mm for the Hammer, provided the link to this thread, and ask what they used as a deflection measurement. Here is the response:

"We do it by feel. Not too loose, not to tight. Just use common sense, I wouldn't agonize over it. It should feel very tight when the bike is warm, upright and loaded. That is common. Loose as a _______ when it's cold, unloaded and on the side stand. "

Basically that is what I have using a deflection spec of 15mm when the bike/belt is cold, wheel off the ground. I'm going to stay with that.
 

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I can't fathom that the belt being real tight when hot is a good thing. Bearings do not like being pulled sideways. I adjusted my belt to be a little bit loose when hot and all is good.
 

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I can't fathom that the belt being real tight when hot is a good thing. Bearings do not like being pulled sideways. I adjusted my belt to be a little bit loose when hot and all is good.
Yes I agree, they even contradict themselves in thier statements
"Not too loose and not too tight"...and
"It should feel very tight "
Theyre as ambiguous as Victorys specs!
They had it right saying Use Common Sense.....just common sense aint common anymore...
 
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Discussion Starter #20
I'm not sure that when he said "it should feel very tight" that the emphasis was on the word very. Nonetheless, when riding, the belt is under quite a bit of strain due to engine torque. That strain, particularly when using a lot of throttle, is probably a much greater pull to the pulleys than that of a tight belt (unless it's according to Victory's spec...LOL). For me I think I have found a happy medium.
 
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