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My 11 Hammer is starting to worry me a little. If I get on it hard in 2nd gear it feels like the drive belt is slipping. It only happens for a split second and continues to accelerate like normal. I was convinced the belt was slipping the first time it happened and checked my belt. It was a little loose so I adjusted it. But it's still happening. I'm getting concerned because the bike is always in 2nd when it happens and has never done it in any other gear. Don't think its the clutch because in my experience clutches tend to slip in higher gears. It almost feels like the trans gears are slipping only to reengage when I back out of the throttle a little. My bike has always sucked on 1 2 upshifts and I always have to make sure to hit the lever firm or sometimes I get an embarrassing neutral when taking off hard. Bike has 22k on it now.
 

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First off make sure the tension on the belt is set as it should be.

While you're down there inspect the belt for missing or worn teeth that may jump a tooth on the pulley if under really hard torque. Also make sure both belt and pulley are clean and there is no buildup of foreign material.

The transmission is all gears so if something is slipping in that area it has to be the clutch. If there is slipping in the clutch it will be irrelevant what gear the bike is in. Make a conscious effort to note rpm's and relative torque at the time it happens. Try to duplicate them in another gear.

Those are the only two things I can think of right off the bat. On the far outside of things, depending on the rpm it may possibly be at a crossover point in the fuel mapping but that would take a bit more work to figure out for sure.

Good luck.
 

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All of the above, GREAT stuff 53canuck

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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You did not say what rpm's you were when that happened. If its in the low 5Ks, you hit the rev limiter. Is you clutch cable adjusted correctly at overnight cold? What oil are you using?
 

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This week there was a tread about "glazed" clutch plates coz of the wrong oil .. Then they changed the oil 2 times with additives and the clutch was back to normal again ... Then change back to the recommended oil and NO NEED REPLACEMENT of the clutch ..

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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I wont say the belt cant slip, but it is highly unlikely. It is a coged belt and would make a definite sound, kind of like a machine gun if it was slipping. Or a buzz sort of sound.
 
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You would think if a cogged belt slipped under hard acceleration it would destroy it.
 

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Strange as it may sound it sounds like what my bikes doing in second too!
It's not apart yet so the condition inside the gearbox is unknown at this time.
I'm sure there's other threads with symptoms along the same line.
I put mine down to internal damage like a bent selector fork from when the bike slid down the road on its lh side, shearing off the selector ratchet shaft.
Symptoms sound the same but.
Not belt slip and not clutch or it'd do it in higher gears not just second.
In mine it happens at 2800rpm and again around 3800 rpm.
And only in second gear!
If I short shift before 2800 it don't occur.
Then again I have downshift problems too.
 

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I have had this happen on other, shall we say metric bikes. It was caused by the dogs on the tranny (!) gears rounding off their corners. Second was first to go cuz that's the one you really haul out on. When that happens, its like a momentary ignition cut out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It doesn't happen everytime so its really hard to duplicate on demand. I've always used Amsoil in the bike because it shifts much better than with the vic oil. I don't believe its the clutch unless it's chattering when it's slipping. I can feel a vibration when it happens thats why the first time it happened I really thought it was the belt. Its hard to tell what kind of noise it's making because my exhaust is loud and it only happens at WOT probably between 3k and 4K. It really feels like the bike is popping out of gear and goes back in as soon as I let off the throttle. It's almost like the gear doesn't engage fully all the time and pops out under max torque. I'm wondering if one of those shift improver kits will help because I've always had problems that 1 2 shift and need to use a firm foot to click it. The belt was the first thing I took a really hard look and its clean with no damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Worst part is I have only a couple of payments left and was thinking to get a 2nd bike. But if it's transmission related I might be better off trading it on a new Hammer S
 

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So here is a comparison of the 2 common type gear mesh principals for lack of better word. Left is the synchromesh like a car trans. The right is a dog ring. Bikes and race cars typically use this system as it can transmit the power cross more surface area.

So what tends to happen is the corners get rounded off and dont "drive" fully because instead of full face contact you have reduced surface area because the corner is rounded off. Sometimes it due to hard shifting, bad down or upshifting practices or even clutch not fully disengaging upon shift points as the trans would still be "driving" when your trying to slip it into the next gear up. On a guess if they are the problem its on the drive side as this is where you getting the issue. On the race car trans I have worked on they basically would jump out of gear.
 
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ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1463235465.198390.jpg

It's your torque compensator that's slipping! It is located in between the crank gear and your clutch basket of your primary drive! It's purpose is to prevent you from ripping teeth off your belt and stripping gear teeth by compensation for excessive torque when your too aggressive with the throttle!
 

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All good possibilities mentioned but I think Loach has it right. The good news is it's an easy fix compared to replacing the inner parts of the trans. It's right behind the primary cover. My 11 XC compensator is making more noise the more miles I put on it. At some point I'll simply replace the parts with the upgraded type used in late 2011's and newer 106 engines.
 

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well it'd be great if that was my problem too
 

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well it'd be great if that was my problem too
The 2010 and early 2011's had the same compensator they eventually figured out was way too noisy in some bikes. Not sure why just some bikes but it is what it is. So the chances are good the issue is the same. If not then the big nasty of splitting the cases comes into play.

Hope it's the compensator for both you...
 

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The 2010 and early 2011's had the same compensator they eventually figured out was way too noisy in some bikes. Not sure why just some bikes but it is what it is. So the chances are good the issue is the same. If not then the big nasty of splitting the cases comes into play.

Hope it's the compensator for both you...
mines not noisy just at 2800 and 3800 in second it feels like it tries to jump from 2nd gear to 3rd but cant and ends up back in second.
Only does it in second gear at those revs.
 

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mines not noisy just at 2800 and 3800 in second it feels like it tries to jump from 2nd gear to 3rd but cant and ends up back in second.
Only does it in second gear at those revs.
Well, since your 2010 compensator should be upgraded anyway, what do you have to lose by trying the easy thing first?

Because it has been a while since I gave this any thought and because KevinX, who knows this stuff like the back of his hand doesn't frequent this forum like he used to; I double checked myself and it looks like I was wrong with the years they upgraded. They used the same compensator from 03 to 12 then they went with the upgraded compensator. You can see the difference in these two pics taken from an 08 Vegas and from a 13 Vegas. Then in the third picture of a 12 XC they add the picture of early build and late build. So it was in 2012 they switched it on the X bikes and probably 13 when they all went that way. At least that's the way I understand it.
 

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