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I have a 2011 with hard lowers and the lower fairing air deflectors. I have had these on since last fall no problems. Out riding today and I noticed paint being rubbed off where the air deflectors have started rubbing on the hard lowers. This just started so I assume the hard lowers have moved enough to start making contact. I checked nothing is loose. I did loosen up the lowers to try and get more clearance between these two parts without much luck. I only have about one eight of an inch clearance. Possible safety issue if the two really jam up.

Ride safe
 

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Interestingly I was at the demo rides this morning and they had 2xct's. One of them hit the lowers and one didn't. The dealer manager was looking at it and said it was a stop adjustment. I didn't look closely enough at it to see if that was plausable or bs.
 

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I put my factory lowers on myself over a year ago and I've had no issues with any pieces rubbing. The paint is fine and everything has held up well for over 16,000 km.
 

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I picked up my XCT this March (and now have 4,000+ miles on it). A few days later, I noticed that - turning the handlebars to full lock (both directions) in the garage, with the bike on the sidestand - on one side the deflector was just touching the top of that lower fairing. This was the case, I believe, only if that clear deflector was in the fully closed-off position (which position puts the outer edge of the deflector closest to the lower fairing).

I took out the four bolts that let you access the three clamps, loosened the clamps a bit, forced/slid the lower fairing a tiny bit outward on the crash bar, and tightened the three clamps. I took out the four bolts on the good side, too, so I could make sure those three clamps were tight.

My opinion is that those clamps are too big for the diameter of the crash bars. That is, I think that you can tighten those clamp bolts probably until they break, and it won't do much. I think if the clamps were smaller, then you could tighten them more, such that they would actually clamp better - tighter - around the crash bar.

In any event, Victory is aware that the placement and adjustment of the lower fairings on the crash bars is critical. I've just scanned in the relevant page of the shop manual (which I ordered when I ordered the bike last January); check out the "WARNING" on that page. (Hope you can see it all right.)
 

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Thanks Bill! That was definitely a better and more in depth explanation than I provided.

When I removed the crash bars and lowers; I find it easiest to first separate the front from the back half of the lowers. That's when I saw one moved. I guess one fix for this would be to put some rubber or leather under the clamps so they could be tightened better, eh.

I'll be putting some 3M film on the front of the lowers while they are off for the Summer. Just makes it easier to apply. Might as well fix the clamps at the same time.
 

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Thanks Bill! That was definitely a better and more in depth explanation than I provided.

When I removed the crash bars and lowers; I find it easiest to first separate the front from the back half of the lowers. That's when I saw one moved. I guess one fix for this would be to put some rubber or leather under the clamps so they could be tightened better, eh.

I'll be putting some 3M film on the front of the lowers while they are off for the Summer. Just makes it easier to apply. Might as well fix the clamps at the same time.
Yeah, good idea, IMHO - some rubber or something like that between the clamps and bars sounds like a good plan to me.
 

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Thanks for the information from the manual. Does the manual say exactly where the clamps are to be positioned? I've had my lower fairing completely off in order to try and touch up scratches from a parking lot drop. When I put the inside portion back on, I found the clamps had been stretched somewhat or moved. I have done what I could to position the lower correctly so it didn't rub the wind deflector. I now have the fairing back on and positioned so the deflector isn't touching, but the entire fairing can still be moved if pulled on hard. I have ordered new clamps, but would like to know if there are specifics quoted in the manual which tells the clamps position prior to and after torquing them up. Or do they just "wing" it? Thanks.

I picked up my XCT this March (and now have 4,000+ miles on it). A few days later, I noticed that - turning the handlebars to full lock (both directions) in the garage, with the bike on the sidestand - on one side the deflector was just touching the top of that lower fairing. This was the case, I believe, only if that clear deflector was in the fully closed-off position (which position puts the outer edge of the deflector closest to the lower fairing).

I took out the four bolts that let you access the three clamps, loosened the clamps a bit, forced/slid the lower fairing a tiny bit outward on the crash bar, and tightened the three clamps. I took out the four bolts on the good side, too, so I could make sure those three clamps were tight.

My opinion is that those clamps are too big for the diameter of the crash bars. That is, I think that you can tighten those clamp bolts probably until they break, and it won't do much. I think if the clamps were smaller, then you could tighten them more, such that they would actually clamp better - tighter - around the crash bar.

In any event, Victory is aware that the placement and adjustment of the lower fairings on the crash bars is critical. I've just scanned in the relevant page of the shop manual (which I ordered when I ordered the bike last January); check out the "WARNING" on that page. (Hope you can see it all right.)
 

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Winston,

What you see is what you get. Put another way: nope, they don't specify a location.

I just moved the lower in question as far outward as it would go. That is, the curve of the crash bars prevents moving theses things very far outward.

I've put that shop-manual page as a separate page of my web site, to make reading it easier: http://www.billanddot.com/xct-lowers.jpg . (Once that page has finished loading, in most browsers you just click anywhere on the pic and it will expand to full size; then, you can use the scroll bars to move around the pic.)
 

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In any event, Victory is aware that the placement and adjustment of the lower fairings on the crash bars is critical. I've just scanned in the relevant page of the shop manual (which I ordered when I ordered the bike last January); check out the "WARNING" on that page. (Hope you can see it all right.)
Note that there's a similar warning in the owners manual as well:

"Fairing Vents and Deflectors (CROSS COUNTRY TOUR)
An air vent and a deflector are located in each lower fairing. Use the vent handles to open and close the vents. Do not force a vent to open beyond the vent pivot stop. Move a deflector
inward or outward to adjust air flow.

WARNING! Failure to inspect deflector clearance after removing and reinstalling a fairing could result in steering interference, which could result in serious injury or death. After removing and reinstalling a fairing, always check for adequate steering clearance by moving the handlebars fully to the left and fully to the right, first with the deflectors open and again with the deflectors closed. Make any adjustments necessary to ensure steering
clearance."
 

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Winston,

What you see is what you get. Put another way: nope, they don't specify a location.

I just moved the lower in question as far outward as it would go. That is, the curve of the crash bars prevents moving theses things very far outward.

I've put that shop-manual page as a separate page of my web site, to make reading it easier: http://www.billanddot.com/xct-lowers.jpg . (Once that page has finished loading, in most browsers you just click anywhere on the pic and it will expand to full size; then, you can use the scroll bars to move around the pic.)
Thanks for following-up. All help and information appreciated. Regarding my painting, I guess I'll have to learn more painting techniques for I'm not getting it done to my satisfaction. :mad: I'll be ordering a new left outside (painted) portion of the lower pretty quick and putting my scratched one up for sale for someone who can do painting much better than I can. It looks ok, but it needs a pro or semi-pro for the job. And, that ain't me. ;)

Edit: just checked your website and the pics...I see I have my clamps mounted incorrectly (IAW manual) and that may be why I can move the lower fairing a little. It is hard to move, but move it I can. :) Again, thanks for putting the information out for us.
 

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Winston,

You're welcome - glad I could help.
 

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Thanks Bill! That was definitely a better and more in depth explanation than I provided.

When I removed the crash bars and lowers; I find it easiest to first separate the front from the back half of the lowers. That's when I saw one moved. I guess one fix for this would be to put some rubber or leather under the clamps so they could be tightened better, eh.

I'll be putting some 3M film on the front of the lowers while they are off for the Summer. Just makes it easier to apply. Might as well fix the clamps at the same time.
Cut up beer cans make for good shim stock.
On the 3M paint film if you don't know go to walmart and in the travel section buy two small spray bottles. One for baby shampoo or dish soap. Mix a 1/4 soap and rest water. Wet painted parts good and film. Fill other with rubbing alcohol spray sticky side of film this activates the glue on the film. With a credit card that has smooth edges spueegee out the water. Good thing to do is make a template of what your going to cover and pre cut film.
 

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Just finished my second adjustment of the lowers within the first year of ownership, but this time added tape. I can't ride now anyway -- there's plenty of snow outside -- so it seemed like a good time to do this.

I separated the front and back pieces, and took them off. (Note: if you've never done this, after you remove the four black screws -- 4mm Allen key/socket -- the front, i.e., painted piece, can be slid off, if you push on the one piece of plastic that goes into an upper grommet. To remove the black piece, in order to get at the clamps, you remove the three bolts with a 6mm key/socket and a 10mm socket and/or an open-end wrench.)

First, I took a Sharpie and marked up the crash bars, to show where the clamps where (before taking the clamp bolts out). Then, for each clamp, I took about half a foot (unstretched) of that magic stretchy sticks-to-itself tape, and stretched it and wrapped it around the clamp areas on the crash bars, after moving the clamps out of the way; this was good for three or four wraps around the bar. You'll have to open up the clamps to put them back on. This is shown in the first pic.

Next, with the nuts just barely on the clamp bolts, I took a mallet to the black pieces; with the tape on, the clamps were already held in place by a lot of friction. The idea is to get the black piece both out and down; getting it down, as far as possible on the crash bar, also lets it move outward more than if you just tapped it outward. See second pic. I could look up the torque spec in my shop manual, but instead I tightened these three bolts, using a 3/8" ratchet, to the technical spec of "very tight."

Then, I put the front (painted) pieces back on. These four bolts have a lower torque, and the first time that I messed with these I found (using an actual torque wrench to check) that using a thumbwheel with as much oomph as you would use in a thumbwheel worked out okay. (Oh, on the left-side pod, the power-outlet holder just slides on an off, with two slotted things. Make sure you look at this cable's positioning before you mess with that side. There's no need to disconnect that cable.)

In any case, I would up with about a quarter inch of minimum clearance on the right side, and a little less (maybe .2) on the left. The right side (sitting on the bike) wasn't too bad before I started, but the left side was just a smidgen (or, in carpentry terms, a "CH") away from touching before I started.

Maybe they'll stay put now. I certainly hope so, because I'm out of ideas now. A poor (afterthought) design on a good bike -- much too critical in terms of placement and movement.
 

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I removed my airwings to Plasti-Dip them black. They look great but they're now starting to rub on hard turns. Looks like I need to make the adjustment. Another option would be to shave the deflectors, of course.
 

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I just set up an appointment at the dealership this morning for the left deflector rubbing my hard lower. This just started happening. In the mean time I've opened up the deflector slightly to increase the clearance.

I will report back what the dealership says, though it'll be the end of January before the appointment.

I've never taken the lowers or the fairing off the bike. Was thinking of putting plasti-dip on the deflectors but now I'm glad I didn't (wouldn't want Victory to claim this was my fault).
 

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I removed my airwings to Plasti-Dip them black. They look great but they're now starting to rub on hard turns. Looks like I need to make the adjustment. Another option would be to shave the deflectors, of course.
Yeah, there's that -- good point. I forgot to mention that I also took off the deflector on one side, just to confirm that there's really no slop, i.e., no room for adjustment, in how those deflectors attach to the dash/fairing; there isn't.

If this rubberized-tape trick doesn't work, I think a good solution might also be to replace the upper outside clamp -- that's really the key one -- with a solid-metal fold-over clamp, and tighten securely. Ya know, the kind of hinged clamp that Kuryakyn and other outfits sell, to mount bullet lights and suchlike on crash bars. This assumes that the bolt-hole in a clamp like that would approximately line up with the bolt hole in the bendy metal stock clamps. I think this is what Victory should have done: use solid metal clamps that you can really snug to a bar.
 

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I just set up an appointment at the dealership this morning for the left deflector rubbing my hard lower. This just started happening. In the mean time I've opened up the deflector slightly to increase the clearance.

I will report back what the dealership says, though it'll be the end of January before the appointment.

I've never taken the lowers or the fairing off the bike. Was thinking of putting plasti-dip on the deflectors but now I'm glad I didn't (wouldn't want Victory to claim this was my fault).
Got my bike back last night from the dealership. They said that the left deflector needed to be adjusted. Actually they looked at all of their CCTs for sale and found that a couple on the floor needed to be adjusted too.

After ensuring the deflector wasn't hitting any more they added some touch-up paint, then buffed it out so you can't even tell. All done under warranty.

Best of luck.
 
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