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A little tip from a buddy... I use a hardwood piece of scrap about 3/4 thick 3X12 under the feet of the center-stand. It gets the rear wheel off the ground enough to rotate it for easy air checking and cleaning. If I need to do the front I have wife or one of my kids sit on the passenger seat and it lifts the front tire off the ground. I keep it in the bottom of a saddlebag so it doesn't get lost in the garage.

Mike
Center-stand?
 

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I've loved every bike I've ever owned. Each one required some kind of tweeking or modification to make it what it should have been before it left the factory. They all seem to have some sort of shortcoming or flaw that needs to be addressed and they're usually minor items. The right side saddlebag latch is a good example of one of those rough edges. Most XC owners and even the aftermarket had repair options before victory even got around to acknowledging the issue. The wimpy factory horn is another but that's an issue most bikes have.

Some items like rattles can be difficult to locate but usually not difficult to remedy once they are located. Once the rough edges are smoothed out or the rattles have been sorted out it's kinda rewarding having the machine dialed in. For a rattle in the fairing I'd remove the headlight and thump on the fairing to see if I could see/hear anything like wiring either factory or aftermarket contacting the fairing, maybe even remove the fairing and put a wrench on the fairing attachment bracket bolts and the windshield mounting bracket bolts to confirm they are tight. Mine had a nasty rattle at 2800-3500 RPM under load. It wouldn't do it in that RPM range sitting still. I noticed it for the first time after installing the timing wheel and damn if it didn't sound like pinging...I found the two 6mm (aluminum windshield mounting bracket) bolts had loosened, that live underneath the plastic trim piece the KevinX was talking about. By chance I heard the same noise as I crossed some railroad tracks while the engine RPM was much lower and with no load on the engine. I had never heard the rattle before over bumps only while on the gas as I ran thru the gears in that RPM range. That eliminated pinging, I went back and crossed the tracks a few more times and noticed when I put my finger on the top of the windshield as I crossed the tracks the rattle would stop. It's kinda sad that minor things like this never seem to get the factories attention, but it's not just Victory products. Don't give up you'll only have to sort out a new/different bike and you'll be back to square one.

Tech23
 

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I have to agree with Tech23...After the issues with heat vs. wind management, then the stripped drain plug and the cruse not working and my side cover falling off and the right bag latch wearing out, the random stalling etc, etc. I had to work out since owning this bike. Last weekend, with the bikes issues ironed out, I ended up riding a really nice route(incidentally going to LILMAG's house of all places....) I had sweet country roads, twisties, scenic highways and very little traffic on this ride....The bike was running strong and smooth, I had concurred the buffeting and heat, even the Drag Specialties seat seemed to find its completely break-in. I remembered on this ride how much I can enjoy the XC and how great it is across so many conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Thanks Tech , good read and good advice , I'm feeling much better about it all and am going out to work on the bike shortly . Will spend the whole day on it if need be . Going to look into new tires too today , I think I'm dropping the Bumflops and trying a different brand .cheers
 

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I bought used so I can't vouch for the original owners tire pressure upkeep. I'm pretty sure he ran these under inflated...anyway here's the cupping wear on the rear E3. The bike was scary to ride. This is just a piece of rubber fuel hose laying on top of the tire to show how severe the cupping is.

Tech23
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I bought used so I can't vouch for the original owners tire pressure upkeep. I'm pretty sure he ran these under inflated...anyway here's the cupping wear on the rear E3. The bike was scary to ride. This is just a piece of rubber fuel hose laying on top of the tire to show how severe the cupping is.

Tech23
My bike handles very strangely at low speed , I almost dropped it twice this weekend with mamma on back , I kept thinking , "what the F^*k is wrong with me"? I now believe its my very oddly shaped tires ... I also have a Whoop Whoop sound over 35 mph , pull in the clutch and coast , its still there ... Tires? I hope so .
 

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As for the clunk from underneath the bike when going over bumps I would check for slop in the rear suspension linkage. There is a rod that rides in cast in holes in the frame that is about 6 inches long. It is basically under the seat. The top of the shock attaches to one end of the rocker and the shock link attaches to the other end. There is a bearing in the middle. Play develops between the frame and the rod and results in some up and down play. When you can, put bike on lift with rear wheel raised up and put a wrench on your axle nut and try to loosen the nut. I bet you will find a clunk when you lift up on the axle nut. Took mine in while under warranty and found that this is pretty common for the aluminum bikes. A poor design in my opinion, but what can you do. There was a huge thread on here a while ago with the same problem and there was talk about a new frame was only way to get rid of problem, but don't recall final outcome of that one. I will try to post part # of pieces I'm referring to. My description leaves a lot to the imagination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Thank you , I completely understand and also read the thread you are referring to , that was Joe's bike ... I put in a lowering link so I will check it now , bike already on lift bags off ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
when I lift up and down with some force , not enough to break the nut loose but almost I do get a light clunk , is this normal , I have read other guys have this too . Maybe KevinX could shed some light on this .... I installed a 1.5" lowering link a month an a half ago and all looks good and all still tight as far as nuts and bolts go ... Too many pivot points with that rocker type setup if you ask me ....
 

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Mags I too have an odd noise that comes from the rear.... It happens when I hit largish bumps. I found putting 5 more lbs of air in the shock seems to help but doesn't totally alleviate the issue. I don't like the way my bike looks with too much air in the shock either. So I deal with the noise. My noise is a very light clanking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Same here Travis , I would need to pull the fender liner and have a buddy lift up and down to see where the play is ... I just cant be bothered right now , just add this to the list for now ...:crzy:
 

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yes the wheel should move up and down with no weight on wheel.
Maybe a 1/2 inch its normal
 

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I bought used so I can't vouch for the original owners tire pressure upkeep. I'm pretty sure he ran these under inflated...anyway here's the cupping wear on the rear E3. The bike was scary to ride. This is just a piece of rubber fuel hose laying on top of the tire to show how severe the cupping is.
Tech23
Interestingly, Dunlops are the only brand that has cupped on me and mostly the front tire, with some on the rear. I learned to put it off a bit by inflating up to or near the max. However, the E3s my XR came with had no cupping in over 15Kmiles . So far, the Cobras are running true with 10K on em.
 

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when I lift up and down with some force , not enough to break the nut loose but almost I do get a light clunk , is this normal , I have read other guys have this too . Maybe KevinX could shed some light on this .... I installed a 1.5" lowering link a month an a half ago and all looks good and all still tight as far as nuts and bolts go ... Too many pivot points with that rocker type setup if you ask me ....
Yes it is normal because of the real loose fit of that pin in the frame.
Mine was .022 and vic told me that was good to go.
With all that linkage that ends up around 7/16 -3/8 at the wheel.

I made a special pin that took it all out but only because my pin was rotating too and when I fixed one I fixed the other.
 

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At 15,000 miles when you take the forks off to change the oil and the neck bearings out to replace the top one and re grease the bottom one you will be reinstalling the inner fairing. Use locktite this time. That's something Polaris never heard of apparently. :ltr: Just don't use it around any plastics because it will fubar them. That should help with any rattles that Kevin's fix doesn't solve.cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Thank you Joe , I am well aware of your past headaches ....:(cheers
 

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Thank you Joe , I am well aware of your past headaches ....:(cheers
The OL's has the free play too. It will clunck on the correct bump.
I think that is what loud pipes are for.:)
 

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The OL's has the free play too. It will clunck on the correct bump.
I think that is what loud pipes are for.:)
Or loud stereos. Or both! cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I have come to the determination most of my issues stem from my square tires ....:D Except for the fairing rattle ... I have not addressed that yet ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The OL's has the free play too. It will clunck on the correct bump.
I think that is what loud pipes are for.:)
Huh , WTF ?:crzy:
 
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