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Discussion Starter #1
Firs issue I've ever had. Seems intermittent. Start bike minutes later bike just goes off. Total electrical shut down. All indicators dead. Turn key off, indicators start to come on (glow), then off, minutes later, turn key on, bike fires up. runs fine for a while, then shuts down again exactly same. Battery terminals are tight.

Any other ideas?
 

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Something is loose. If you're 100% sure the battery terminals are tight I would loosen then and tighten them back up just in case. Then I would follow the positive and negative leads to their other ends and make sure those connections are tight. Also check any and all other chassis grounds for loose connections or corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Something is loose. If you're 100% sure the battery terminals are tight I would loosen then and tighten them back up just in case. Then I would follow the positive and negative leads to their other ends and make sure those connections are tight. Also check any and all other chassis grounds for loose connections or corrosion.
That's what I thought, but when it shuts down and I pull over, it may still be dead, wait a few minutes, bike hasn't moved and starts up again. I mean NOTHING changed or jiggled.


I've got an extra solenoid sitting around. Might replace it too, but it looks tough to get to. Any ideas how to get at it? Under rubber flap tucked down behind batter and radiator.
 

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There is a BUSS fuse, get them at Nappa, on the port side (left) of the bike. Follow the positive cable to it. This can cause problems like you describe. About $5-$6 IIRC and takes about 30 minutes in the garage to install.
Search around the forum to find the number and I'll get back and update if I can find it.
If everything is good and tight without corrosion, and your battery is good, this is a good place to look.
cheers

NAPA # 782-3116, 40 amp buss fuse
 

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sounds like your breaker is bad. Its behind the battery with a red cover over it. New one from NAPA p/n 782-3116 this there $ 7.00 Vic want twice that amount and will have to order it.
 

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I have a video on how to replace the circuit breaker.
You can see it here.
You could also inspect your ignition switch for corrosion, if it was intermittent then all your power would be off as well.
So something is causing massive power failure.
The circuit breaker would heat up and open, shutting off all power, then cool down and make contact again. So that could be it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys! I'll pick one up and see how it goes. Bummer is testing it without breaking down again.
 

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If it's restarting with nothing getting touched than I would definitely agree with the others on the breaker thing. For 7 bucks it's worth it to swap it out and see what happens, though I think I would keep close to home or have a buddy with a truck follow me for the first road test.
 

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say if you have a test meter or light hook it up to breaker then heat it up with a hair dryer. Try to heat it up say 10 min or maybe 15 min.
That should tell you
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'd like to thank everyone for their input.

PaulJP, without your excellent video, I wouldn't have done it my self. Only thing I found different was on my Breaker the bolts were SAE (3/8 I believe), and you didn't mention how many beers it takes.

PRETTY MINOR!!!

Got it in, ran it in garage for 40 minutes, idle, high RPM's, shifted some gears, rocked it, so far so good. True test will come when I get more time and the rain stops.

I've got a spare solenoid which I hear fails a lot too, so after this may attempt it. I'm guessing you get to it same way you get to the breaker.

Only issue I ran up against was the lowers wouldn't go on tight. The clamps kept moving even after full tightened, so I wrapped some rubber electrical tape under them.

Time will tell.... I'll report back later.
 

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Glad you got her done Mike.
Take the old circuit breaker apart and see if there is any corrosion or something to suggest that it was faulty.

Yeah, some people say the p-clamps slide, putting tape around the bars is the solution as you did.
I have not had that problem with mine, but it doesn't hurt to do it while it is apart.

So how many beers did it take?

Keep us up to date on what happens.
Ride safe and have fun.
 

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Have not changed breaker yet.

Good videio Paul! Dryer down here in the Az. desert than up there in the great white north. So maybe those relays go bad much quicker with all the rain up there. Going to go ahead and change it out. The reson I mentioned the rain is the past year when it rained here quit abit the turn signals quit working on my Cross Roads. On my bike the controls are exposed to the elements much more than the XC. So took the turn signal control switch apart. Found inside the switch it had corroded pretty bad, turned green. Cleaned it up with electrical cleaner. Put die-electric grease inside on all the contacts and reassembled it. Turn signals have worked every since. Was surprised Victory did not us much if any die-electric grease. So if you have the switches apart it may be worth the time to put in a little die-electric grease. Apparantly Victory does not believe in it to much.
 

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So if you have the switches apart it may be worth the time to put in a little die-electric grease. Apparantly Victory does not believe in it to much.
Well to be fair polaris is trying to target the harley crowd and we all know how much time it takes to polish that much chrome so the assumption is probably that they never ride in the rain. :p
 

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Been pondering this thread. "Bike shuts off when it's running". I'm thinking it may shut off when it's not running too, but you prolly wouldn't notice.cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well OK, I could change the subject to bike intermittently has a total electrical [email protected]#k Up and shuts off when running...

but back to issue. Got it out today in neighborhood. Within 5 minutes it had complete electrical shutdown. While coasting, it came back up and I jump started it back to running. happened twice more getting home, then one last time and had to stop and restart.

The electrical issue did not re-set my clock, so not the same as battery disconnect, and didn't do this running in garage.

So what's next, crank case sensor? neutral indicator???? They don't cause this though do they? I'm stumped.

In any event, I've got a nice new Breaker. Interesting the old one was smothered in di-electric from the dealer so they do use it.
 

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Sorry to hear that you still have the problem Mike.
Can you look at your ignition key switch and connector.
This should be easy, follow the wire to the connector and unplug it.
Check for corrosion and di-electric grease on the contacts.
What about your run/stop switch? Can you check that too?
Intermittent faults suck, so hard to find.
At least you are able to ride, mine has been tucked away for 4 months now and still have a good month and a half before I can even think of getting it out with all the snow and cold.
Anyway, let us know what you find.
 

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Not sure it has any relevance..my bike was intermittently shutting down..ie would not idle...

it was the small servo motor device behind the right hand side cheese wedge that was the culprit...for me was not an electrical problem..bike woukld start run ok..then die when decellerating.

regards,

Derek cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ignition is clean, no corrosion clean contacts. Stop switch and start switch clean too and silicon lubed. May have to drop off at dealer. Called AMA for tow options to dealer and THEY SUCK. will be changing tow svc. Lucky not stranded, was on hold 20 minutes called back 20 minutes more, called A MA direct to complain and they will forward to supervisor.
 

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Not sure it has any relevance..my bike was intermittently shutting down..ie would not idle...

it was the small servo motor device behind the right hand side cheese wedge that was the culprit...for me was not an electrical problem..bike woukld start run ok..then die when decellerating.

regards,

Derek cheers
Not trying to hijack the thread just want some clearification from Derick as the Ol's bike sometimes quits on decell and it is an intermittent problem that I/we have not been able to correct yet.

Derick,
Was it the IAC valve and how was it fixed. Did they clean it or did they replace it?
 

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There are two more areas for you to look at that would explain random shut down while riding but neither would explain the total electrical failure.

1) Apparently there are THREE (3) circuit breakers in our bikes. The primary 40amp (which you've replaced) by the battery, and a parallel set of secondaries. One is 5amp and feeds power to the both switched and constant power feeds to the dash, the other is a 10amp that feeds power through the ignition switch, then to the kill switch, and from there to coil side of the fuel pump/ignition relay. It's possible then that secondary breaker is bad causing your relay to shut down and your ignition and fuel system to quit (while leaving you dash intact), or you have an intermittent short somewhere after that breaker which is causing it to trip.

2) your tipover sensor could be faulty. This would also cause the ignition, fuel pump, and injectors to go dead. This I think is less likely because according to the service manual if the sensor registers a crash, the bike won't restart until you reset the sensor. Resetting the sensor requires you to turn the key off and wait 15 seconds before turning it back on. Since you regained power without stopping this is probably not the cause but it's something else to look at.
 
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