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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having an occasional problem with my XC and I'm hoping that some of you guys have had this problem and fixed it or maybe KevinX will chime in. I didn't find anything in a search.

My XC has RPW exhaust, Vic performance air filter, PCV, and was dyno tuned by a local guy. I have a problem with my bike stalling and dieing only very occasionally. It only happens after the engine is warmed up and I have usually been riding down the highway at a constant rate of speed when I come into a small town that has a stop light that I have to stop for. So I'll slow down and stop at the light and wait. Every once in a while I'll go to take off when the light turns green and the bike will stumble just off idle and die. It usually happens while I'm slowly releasing the clutch and simultaniously giving the bike throttle. It's like it hits a weird spot in the fueling and the bike can't take any load while idling so it just stalls when the slightest clutch friction is applied.

Note that this is not a throttle blip issue because most of the time it happens before I even open the throttle. But it acts the exact same when I blip the throttle at idle and the bikes dies. And the funny thing is that the bike is always hard to start just after it happens. It acts just like the bike got too much fuel and flooded out a little bit. And restarting the bike is just like starting a bike that has been flooded (hard to start, stumbles a little bit, and a little rough at first but then smoothes out).

Have any of you guys had this issue or have any idea of what it may be? It doesn't happen very often but it is starting to get annoying when it does happen. I have thought that there could be two possible solutions. One could be to get Lloydz idle air control valve. I figure that since this happens at idle and it acts much like a throttle blip then the idle air control valve may help fix the problem.

The other solution I thought of would be to start adjusting the fuel tables on the PCV at idle to see if I can fix the problem. The only problem with that is that I don't feel completely comfortable just messing with the fuel tables and it may be a month before I experience this problem again it is hard to tell if I actually fix the problem until I put a couple of months of riding on the bike. But since I feel like the bike is stalling because of too much fuel I thought that maybe taking away fuel at idle to see if it helps.

Anyone have any experience with this or have any suggestions? Thanks.
 

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I get that on my pin at times. Not sure what I do to remedy it, I think I added some green on my VFC3.
 

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I guess the first place I'd look is in the fuel tables to see if the dyno guy made any modifications to that table in the idle range. From my experience, they're not necessary. My maps (front and rear) are zero'd out in the 0% throttle position below 1000 RPM and it idles just fine. If that's not it then it might be something more mechanical in the fuel feed system. Put some Seafoam through your system and see if it clears up.
 

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Miles since last TB cleaning? May not have anything to do with it but I know after I cleaned mine, I lost that little dip in the idle around town and hardly ever had any long starts afterwards.

Just curious as to your idle RPM 1000, +/-50 when its hot and rolling back to idle at the light??

Im with the seafoam recommended by Dundin too, made a noticable differnce first time I ran it.

I could be in left field but thought I would ask.... Good luck and keep us posted!!!!!

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll check the fuel tables this weekend and see if the dyno guy made any changes to the fuel tables at idle. I don't remember the bike doing this before I added the PCV but to be fair I put the PCV on the bike right after initial break in so the bike has had the PCV on it for most of its life.

Since I've had the bike for less than a year I haven't cleaned the throttle bodies yet but the bike does have 12,000 miles on it. And running a can of seafoam through the fuel system every couple of months is never a bad idea. I'll try the seafoam first and maybe clean the throttle bodies after that if I'm still having problems.

I can't remember specifically what the rpm's are when I'm sitting at the stoplights but I do know that they are not dropping below normal. I think they are around 1000 - 1100 rpm but don't quote me on that.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Hopefully I'll get this figured out.
 

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Your not the only one with this issue . My 09 jackpot does it, my buddies 08king pin does it. I have a guy I ride with that has an 12 "spaceship" (vision) lol and another with a 12 xr and they all do it. Our dealers say its the nature of the beast. I don't believe it. I have an 07 hammer and it has never done it! I think it has somethig to do with when victory went from open to closed loop on 08 and newer. Damn the EPA. I'm curious as to what Kevinx has to say or if anyone has fixed this.
 

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My 2013 XCT stumbles and at times stalls also. It pisses me off as it only happens when your not ready for it.

I figured the problem was with the IAC. so I blocked the air line to the IAC.....By doing this I would be assured that a lean condition was the cause. But not so it still did it. So I cranked up the fuel controller and it still did it. I had the fuel ratio set very rich and this stumble never changed.

So if its not a lean condition caused by the IAC what the hell is it.

Rob
 

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Your not the only one with this issue . My 09 jackpot does it, my buddies 08king pin does it. I have a guy I ride with that has an 12 "spaceship" (vision) lol and another with a 12 xr and they all do it. Our dealers say its the nature of the beast. I don't believe it. I have an 07 hammer and it has never done it! I think it has somethig to do with when victory went from open to closed loop on 08 and newer. Damn the EPA. I'm curious as to what Kevinx has to say or if anyone has fixed this.
Mine does NOT do this, and it never has!

I'm gonna suggest checking all battery connections and replacing the main (breaker?) relay. These two things have been known to cause the bikes to stumble or die out sporadically. They are easy to fix. Tighten battery cables and go buy a replacement relay for $8 at the local auto parts store.
 

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I agree with KevinX, poor tuning. I know when I was playing around with my PCV I set some values in the 0% and 5% range and it idled very poorly and wanted to stall when I started to ride. THEN I reread the direction and found those values should be 0 so the turner doesn't try tuning in that area. I'm not saying this is your problem but when you start adding "stuff" be aware of what it can do.

IMHO, if something goes awry, I always scrutinize the last thing I did.

Please keep us posted.

Ride safe.
 

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Mine does NOT do this, and it never has!

I'm gonna suggest checking all battery connections and replacing the main (breaker?) relay. These two things have been known to cause the bikes to stumble or die out sporadically. They are easy to fix. Tighten battery cables and go buy a replacement relay for $8 at the local auto parts store.

I've not heard of this. How does the battery connection or a failed relay cause stumbling at idle/initial take off but not during a normal run condition?

Do you have a part number for the relay?

Ride safe.
 

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I've not heard of this. How does the battery connection or a failed relay cause stumbling at idle/initial take off but not during a normal run condition?

Do you have a part number for the relay?

Ride safe.
This was a big problem with the Honda VTXs. They painted the frame and then had 2 ground wires hooked up to it. After a while the grounds would loose connectivity just enough (spelled wrong) and the EFI would go bonkers. It was a pain to fix and was reccomended to check every year. Part of the joy of owning a "maintanence free" Honda.
 

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My 13 XCT has done that on occasion from day one.

first fix was to have the dealer clear a ICV fault.

Next fix was add a Cobra Power Pro...

Removed the cats....

today it cut out shifting from 2nd to 1st after a 30 minute run at 65mph.

My guess is the closed loop fuel circuit. Slow update rate possibly.


wacwacwac
 

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I talked to the dealer about this and they said they have seen this stumble also.

They recommend doing stage one flash......

Anyone have the stumble even though they have had the bike flashed?

Something else I noticed....... The idle on my bike has been real rough since day one. It turned out the front cyl was pushing the rear at idle.
By adjusting the balance between the front and rear cyl the idle came back to a nice and smooth sound of a v-twin. And the stumble is reduced not gone but reduced...

Rob
 

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I talked to the dealer about this and they said they have seen this stumble also.

They recommend doing stage one flash......

Anyone have the stumble even though they have had the bike flashed?

Something else I noticed....... The idle on my bike has been real rough since day one. It turned out the front cyl was pushing the rear at idle.
By adjusting the balance between the front and rear cyl the idle came back to a nice and smooth sound of a v-twin. And the stumble is reduced not gone but reduced...

Rob
I may have the same issue. I do have the stage 1 with a reflash, put on at time of purchase. So I do not know if this happened without the stage 1/remap. I have only had it happen while the bike was lowering RPM. Last weekend was first real miles I was able to put on it to/around/back from Myrtle Beach. Just went over 1000miles.

example: stop in traffic, pull in clutch, RPM comes down, but from what I have seen is still >1000, I then try to accelerate (change lanes in traffice etc), and the engine dies. I have been able to reproduce it while sitting in a parking lot. Raise RPM to 1500-2000, release throttle, as soon as RPM goes through 1000, give it gas--engine dies.

I was actually going to dealer today to discuss this.

-Scott K.
 

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I may have the same issue. I do have the stage 1 with a reflash, put on at time of purchase. So I do not know if this happened without the stage 1/remap. I have only had it happen while the bike was lowering RPM. Last weekend was first real miles I was able to put on it to/around/back from Myrtle Beach. Just went over 1000miles.

example: stop in traffic, pull in clutch, RPM comes down, but from what I have seen is still >1000, I then try to accelerate (change lanes in traffice etc), and the engine dies. I have been able to reproduce it while sitting in a parking lot. Raise RPM to 1500-2000, release throttle, as soon as RPM goes through 1000, give it gas--engine dies.

I was actually going to dealer today to discuss this.

-Scott K.
Yup that sounds like it....
What I do now is put the bike in gear then raise the RPM to 1200 or so then let the clutch out and go. And what I mean by that is if the bike doesn't stumble or stall then let the clutch out.

I find I can make it do this if at idle and give the bike a very small blip it will stumble and or die. If I give it a big blip no stumble.

It seems the computer doesn't add fuel with the small blip.

And does it ever rattle the gears when it stumbles. Sounds like they tried to lock up for a split second.

I have also had the bike stall during a downshift just before stopping. Coming to a stop small blip to the throttle for 1st gear down shift then rattle sound and stall..

I will say again that I have a fuel controller and I have gone from one end (lean to the other rich) with no difference in the stumble...
 

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Mine does NOT do this, and it never has!

I'm gonna suggest checking all battery connections and replacing the main (breaker?) relay. These two things have been known to cause the bikes to stumble or die out sporadically. They are easy to fix. Tighten battery cables and go buy a replacement relay for $8 at the local auto parts store.
And mine doesn't do that... completely stock, the way Victory says it ought to be.
 

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Could to much air at idle. Then iav from Lloyds to cut that down. Could be too little or too much fuel. I thought the pcv didn't work the lower rpms. Piss poor tuning probably

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Same here. I would 'blip' the throttle on my bone-stock XCT when the light changes to raise the RPM quickly before releasing the clutch. That is when it would die - happened twice.
Since then, I just gradually roll on the throttle while releasing the clutch (like we're supposed to? :) ) instead of a quick blip, and so far haven't had an issue...
 
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