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Paid a visit to The Pompano Indian / Victory dealer yesterday while out of town on business. I get asked a lot when there how my XC is running as they know it is Lloyds driven. yesterday they asked if I had the timing wheel and if I was sure that the adjusting bolts were tight. It seems that they have an XC in the shop now with a bent rod due to the Lloyds timing wheel (owner install error) bolts coming loose and advancing timing too much to the point of causing this damage to the motor. The owner was riding with his wife at a cruise speed of 50 mph and bam. When the tech opened up the timing cover he discovered the wheel loose as a goose and no LOC-TITE in site.

I got home last night and immediately removed my cover and re installed those little adjusting bolts with red loc-tite. I never did it at my installation and when my cams and dyno tune were done by Kyle he found them loose at that time about a month after I installed the wheel. Still he didn't feel the need for LOC-TITE and just tightened the bolts again. Last night my bolts were not loose but it took 0 effort to break them loose.

I think the Red LOC-TITE is the only insurance we have that this hopefully does not happen to us. The Customer that grenade his motor is looking at a $12,000 repair according to the dealer who states Victory does not have crated/built motors. It comes one expensive part at a time.

Moral to this story is get a bottle of red Loc tite and a WD re-usable gasket and include checking your timing wheel from time to time during your maintenance at least once a year. I'm certainly glad I did.
 

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Great information. Guess I'll be checking mine tonight.
 

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Rylan put mine in when the cams went in, never a bad thing to make double sure all is tight.
 

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While I'm no master mechanic, I am handy. Your warning is a good one, BUT, I can't count the threads on various sites about folks installing these and finding out after the fact they should have tightened the set bolts. Instructions in mine said to torque W/blue lock tight. Gave the value as well.
I know not all have or read instructions, but being surprised the things should be checked on install?
I guess the CDO (OCD with the letters in order as they should be) gets to me.
Check them bolts, use lock tight, and happy trails.
 

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red Loctite will require heat to remove them if you ever had to. I would follow the instructions and use blue.
 

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not to hijack the thread but....

who in their right mind would even consider spending 12k on having a motor rebuilt??? ordering every part from victory would be the last thing I would do.
 

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I used blue on all three bolts .....
 

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I did mine with red loc tite.. I have removed them for adjusting the timing and they seem to break loose pretty well as long as the engine is still pretty warm.
 

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Red is for big bolts blue would be the best if you ever want to get the bolt out again
 

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Red is for big bolts blue would be the best if you ever want to get the bolt out again
I agree to a point but these are under constant heat and they are only tightened to 6 lb ft. Not sure how most people put loctite on but I only dab some on the end of the bolt. Plus like I said I have broke mine loose fairly easy using red.
 

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I'll check mine this week.
FWIW, doesn't the specified 6ft/lb seem low?
6 is for the outer cover.17 for the center bolt. 15 for the set bolts.
I used blue on them too. Reset the thing a couple of times to get rid of vibration and reapplied both times.
 

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I used blue on all three bolts .....
Me too, and I'll still check it in a few months just to see. I did notice when I got mine, the adjusting bolts were not overly tight.
 

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Holy crap- another horror story with the ATS, even though it was caught before any damage was done. Will double check mine and make sure its also on my service "check list" every time the bike goes into the shop.
 

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I've been using Red on everything I Loctite (bikes/cars/trucks/machinery/etc) for decades and never had to use heat or absurd force to remove any fasteners, least of all common bolt sizes. I have sheared corroded hardware (none I installed, as I avoid dry threads except where mfr specifies such as some head bolts), but Loctite reduces corrosion by excluding moisture and helps prevent such problems.

There is always the aircraft hardware option. Threadlocker isn't reliable enough for jet engines (which vibrate and see some harsh temps) so more positive locking options are used.

Keenserts keyed inserts are available with "locking internal threads" which ain't happening with conventional tapped holes. They are far superior to Heli-Coils. Some industrial suppliers stock individual inserts. If in doubt, I'd call the manufacturer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyCTh23Z6o0

http://mdmetric.com/prod/insert/keenserts.pdf

I ain't no Polaris mechanic (yet, still researching so I can buy used and not get boned), but I've got 26 years fixing F-4 Phantoms, OV-10 Broncos, and F-16s.

Keenserts could be incorporated in new production but it would cost more. Other keyed insert brands are available, but remember for a spinning component an insert with locking threads should be used so be sure to get one.

A locktab of the style HD uses on their inner primaries could be used on the center bolt. with the tab serving as the washer under a hex bolt rather than flanged. Alternately, a center bolt with a deformable threadlocking insert could be installed with no modification required.

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If I grenaded an engine I'd be looking for one out of a wreck. It rarely makes sense any more to rebuild auto or motorcycle engines when obliging folk regularly total their containing vehicles. I'd be contacting a variety of motorcycle salvage outfits, who if they've none in stock can reach others over the internet just like auto salvage outfits.
If you are near a Copart salvage you can either bid directly on a complete machine or via proxy depending on your state. Sadly my friend who had a dealer license retired or I'd be sniffing a salvage Victory for myself. I might still go via a dealer if I can find one who will hook me up. Polaris ain't Harleys, which is a good thing when bidding in an auction mostly focused on cars. You might score a more recent machine as a donor. It doesn't take much damage to insurance total a fancy modern motorsickle.

For that much cash I'd be doing some homework.

Here's an example via a bidding service I have NOT used, but there are various ways to bid at Copart. Their auctions are educational and I recommend going.
Call your local Copart for details. I don't work for them, I'm just a cheap phuquer who worked at a used car lot building vehicles from auctions.
Note the buy it now price. I don't expect it would bring that much being an oddball (sorry) vehicle, but that's nice for the buyer.

http://www.salvagebikesauction.com/vehicle_detail/Salvage-2012-Victory-VISION+TOU-for-Sale/lot-14359494/North-salt-lake-Utah/id/1/pg/1

If local you can inspect Copart vehicles in person, and it's common to bring a jump pack. If the vehicle has keys you can attempt to crank it. Where it has no keys you can jump pack the lead to the starter motor if you can reach it. Hearing the engine spin can tell you a lot.
 

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not to hijack the thread but....

who in their right mind would even consider spending 12k on having a motor rebuilt??? ordering every part from victory would be the last thing I would do.
I thought the same thing. You would have to be an idiot to pay 12k for to rebuild a Vic motor. I got my XR for not much more than that brand new and you can find used low mileage 106's for way less than 12k.
 

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Holy f$%^ I'll be asking Kyle to use Loctite red when he does mine.
This is quite illuminating to what could happen.
The stuff ya gotta know when you start doing stuff internal.
What's the torque spec on those things?

I'm going to be totally ignorant with this question.. You can just go in the cam cover without oil spewing everywhere and get to the ATW and check it?

I'm sorry I'm used to harleys.. You don't fart around a harley without a complete fluid change everywhere.
 

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I used loctite on the main bolt and just tightened up the adjustment bolts at 4 deg. as they weren't real tight.
I tend to tighten things fairly tight (best to stop just before they strip)
So I think mine would be tight enough, after reading this though theres a niggling thought that maybe I should just remove one at a time and apply some loctite.
Done 6000 hard miles since installation of the wheel, no dramas.
Tell you what though since the timing wheel and breathing mods the bikes a lot happier pulling from low revs and is more cruisable in sixth.
 
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