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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm adding 1.25" risers under my fly bars. Stock studs are not long enough. Its hard to find M12 studs of correct length. Is it OK to just use bolts with thread locker or lock washers? Any reason I should stick to studs?
 

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Bolts are fine. Personally, I would use aviation nuts, the ones with the nylon in them. I've had good luck with them and lock washers.
 

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riser change

i changed risers on my 13 hammer, the holes in the top tree fit a 1/2 X 13 bolt easily, the size a lot of custom risers use. larger diameter bolts are quite stout in standard grade.
 

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Allen bolts are what came with my 2" risers add some Loctite, never use lock washers. Just remember to clean the Loctite out of the handlebar threads when you remove the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Allen bolts are what came with my 2" risers add some Loctite, never use lock washers. Just remember to clean the Loctite out of the handlebar threads when you remove the studs.

what type of head? normal socket, Button socket, or low socket? Stainless?
 

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what type of head? normal socket, Button socket, or low socket? Stainless?
Regular socket head steel. Stainless won't be as strong but will still be around grade 5 which will be good enough for the application. A4 (316) stainless is stronger than A2(304) if you go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)

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The threaded spacers welded into the handlebars aren't very deep if I remember you may already be all the way into the threaded portion but I have the v-bars so it may be different. I got the 2" risers and I think they can with 140mm but it may have been 120mm. If you are all the way into the spacer I wouldn't worry about it. Ideally you want 2 threads exposed past any internally threaded fastener(nut). Loctite, Loctite, Loctite, did I mention Loctite?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did it all without letting go controls. I'd have to do that to look inside my ness fly bars. I think I'm fine with over 1 inch of thread but I'll get the longer bolts just to be safe.
 

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I used blue on mine so if I need to remove them it's easier. I know you think that your handlebars are a critical application but in an engineering aspect it's minimal but you would never notice the difference if the bolt was a 4.6(grade 2). Vibration is the most concern hence why I stress Loctite.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The threaded spacers welded into the handlebars aren't very deep if I remember you may already be all the way into the threaded portion but I have the v-bars so it may be different. I got the 2" risers and I think they can with 140mm but it may have been 120mm. If you are all the way into the spacer I wouldn't worry about it. Ideally you want 2 threads exposed past any internally threaded fastener(nut). Loctite, Loctite, Loctite, did I mention Loctite?

Anyone know how deep the threaded inserts are inside Ness Fly bars?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used blue on mine so if I need to remove them it's easier. I know you think that your handlebars are a critical application but in an engineering aspect it's minimal but you would never notice the difference if the bolt was a 4.6(grade 2). Vibration is the most concern hence why I stress Loctite.
Yes hard to get my head around that it's not a that critical but understand why. Now city just have to ensure they are long enough. I am threaded up into the bars overy an inch?
 

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Yes hard to get my head around that it's not a that critical but understand why. Now city just have to ensure they are long enough. I am threaded up into the bars overy an inch?
Sorry critical as in it's not under as much stress as people think. Most studs are low carbon grade 2 and many risers use grade 5 hardware. The socket heads are basically a grade 9. I always use the highest grade I can based on the application. Manufacturers use the highest grade based on price that fits the required torque needed. There are times when a lower grade is used and should never be replaced with a higher grade such as a shear application. If you are in at least an inch you are good but I always recommend having at least 2 threads past the insert but I don't know how long the insert is.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally got a ride in today to try my new handlebar position out. Can't believe only 1.25" could make such a difference. I must have hit my sweet spot as when cruising my arms are so relaxed it feels weird. Feels way different; Maybe a little too close or more awkward when making tight turns to park (maybe just need getting used to) but excellent cruising - don't feel like I'm reaching at all.
 
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