Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this is normal or not But over the past few weeks I have noticed the finish on the rear brake rotor has been peeling and after riding today its definitely getting worse. I don't do any kind of unusual braking and they are bone stock brakes. almost seems like they are getting too hot as the inside seems a bit discolored. From what I can tell the brake aren't sticking or anything and I cant smell them. It has less than 5000 miles on it and now I'm worried about rust. Would this be a warranty issue or does this seems normal?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,298 Posts
Looks more like the rotor has been scored by the pads. How do the pads look? If they are glazed or gritty, lay some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the pads until the surface is clean. If they are worn, replace them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Looks more like the rotor has been scored by the pads. How do the pads look? If they are glazed or gritty, lay some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the pads until the surface is clean. If they are worn, replace them.
Pads seem to be fine and look ok, I don't understand why they are doing this though that's whats making me think warranty. its not like i drive around doing 200 mph lol. I planned on eventually doing EBC pads anyway but i don't want a jacked up rotor.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,632 Posts
Not sure if this is normal or not But over the past few weeks I have noticed the finish on the rear brake rotor has been peeling and after riding today its definitely getting worse. I don't do any kind of unusual braking and they are bone stock brakes. almost seems like they are getting too hot as the inside seems a bit discolored. From what I can tell the brake aren't sticking or anything and I cant smell them. It has less than 5000 miles on it and now I'm worried about rust. Would this be a warranty issue or does this seems normal?
Your's looks great. My rear has big ole' pits in it. Oddly, my fronts are fresh and clean. I suspect mine were due to riding in the winter with the salty roads. If you didn't do that then perhaps the outfit plating their rear rotors just sucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Your's looks great. My rear has big ole' pits in it. Oddly, my fronts are fresh and clean. I suspect mine were due to riding in the winter with the salty roads. If you didn't do that then perhaps the outfit plating their rear rotors just sucks.
You don't think it will rust though? Yes my fronts look brand new, i mean i use them in tandem normally but the front just has no stopping power alone.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,632 Posts
You don't think it will rust though? Yes my fronts look brand new, i mean i use them in tandem normally but the front just has no stopping power alone.
I agree and no I'm not worried about it. As long as the brakes still work properly, I'm not gonna get too uptight over it. When they stop working properly, I'll buy another rotor.

Based on your picture, I wouldn't get too distressed yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,298 Posts
I replaced my pads with EBC HH long before the originals were even half worn. Big improvement all around. Why wait?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,684 Posts
Your rotor looks to me like it got super hot at one time or anther , hence the bluing look .....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I replaced my pads with EBC HH long before the originals were even half worn. Big improvement all around. Why wait?
I was going to wait and do the rotors and pads eventually. EBC makes great rotors also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Your rotor looks to me like it got super hot at one time or anther , hence the bluing look .....
I agree but im not sure when they would have done it though. I dont drive hard or anything. unless they were stuck when i was on the highway? not to sure
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,188 Posts
yes they were over heated for sure. You use the rear break more then the front I'm guessing.
If you go to a EBC pad you'll stop way better then stock. Your owners book will tell you how to measure the thickness of your rotor.
I dough your rotor is bad. Change your pads like we all say

Please use your front break more to stop. If you ever get in a situation where you have to stop fast "front" break first then rear. If you only use rear you'll lock it up and crash
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
Fluid

They have been hot. Looks like you like to use the rear more possibly as mentioned on here before. Some other things are possible also. They could have hung up for a little or stuck on for what ever reason. Do you ride with your foot over the pedal all the time ready to use the brake quickly? If so maybe you are slightly resting your foot on the pedal slightly appling the brake,remember I said maybe. Also one thing lots of people over look or should I say overfill. Check the rear brake resevoir is it full? If the resevoir is full take the lid off, now check it, is it overfull.Remember the dealer does not always check everything when doing a PDI. If the fluid is over full with the lid on it can expand when used and get hot, when it does this it has no place to go so it pushes the pistons out of caliber and applies the brakes, then you can end up riding around with the rear brake on or in worse case the rear wheel could lock up. The other thing is when you or if you added rear brake fluid was it of the correct type DOT fluid,if not it to can cause problems: sticking pistons in the caliber or fluid getting hot and expanding more than usual. The other thing is do you have free movement of the rear brake pedal? The pedal should move freely with no hisitation or sticking when you release the pedal. Just some ideas. Years ago my 1978 Triumph had a rear master cylinder that like to hang up, it would not return the fluid out of the master cylinder when I released the brake. You could feel the old Triumph slow down even after you released the rear brake pedal, it really heated up the rear rotor and warped it. I did not use the rear brake on that bike unless it was really necessary, I could not afford a new mastercylinder at that time. Just some ideas. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
They have been hot. Looks like you like to use the rear more possibly as mentioned on here before. Some other things are possible also. They could have hung up for a little or stuck on for what ever reason. Do you ride with your foot over the pedal all the time ready to use the brake quickly? If so maybe you are slightly resting your foot on the pedal slightly appling the brake,remember I said maybe. Also one thing lots of people over look or should I say overfill. Check the rear brake resevoir is it full? If the resevoir is full take the lid off, now check it, is it overfull.Remember the dealer does not always check everything when doing a PDI. If the fluid is over full with the lid on it can expand when used and get hot, when it does this it has no place to go so it pushes the pistons out of caliber and applies the brakes, then you can end up riding around with the rear brake on or in worse case the rear wheel could lock up. The other thing is when you or if you added rear brake fluid was it of the correct type DOT fluid,if not it to can cause problems: sticking pistons in the caliber or fluid getting hot and expanding more than usual. The other thing is do you have free movement of the rear brake pedal? The pedal should move freely with no hisitation or sticking when you release the pedal. Just some ideas. Years ago my 1978 Triumph had a rear master cylinder that like to hang up, it would not return the fluid out of the master cylinder when I released the brake. You could feel the old Triumph slow down even after you released the rear brake pedal, it really heated up the rear rotor and warped it. I did not use the rear brake on that bike unless it was really necessary, I could not afford a new mastercylinder at that time. Just some ideas. Good luck.
yes they were over heated for sure. You use the rear break more then the front I'm guessing.
If you go to a EBC pad you'll stop way better then stock. Your owners book will tell you how to measure the thickness of your rotor.
I dough your rotor is bad. Change your pads like we all say

Please use your front break more to stop. If you ever get in a situation where you have to stop fast "front" break first then rear. If you only use rear you'll lock it up and crash
Yeah i really don't use the rear brake anymore than the front. unless I'm into some serious turns as the stock front brake just doesn't have much stopping power. Again i plan on doing the pads just not yet.I did check the Brake fluid and its perfect. I do not ride with my foot over the brake pedal unless there's a ton of traffic or im around alot of intersections, and even then i don't touch the pedal. Now that i think about it i do recall a few weeks ago i was on the highway and was cut off and had to use my brakes pretty good after driving for about 20 min I noticed the burnt clutch/brake pad smell. when I went to pull off at the exit i noticed my pedal had some free movement before it braked like the caliper was stuck i pumped it a few times and it was fine. Ill bet that's what heated the damn thing up so much. wonder what would have caused it to do that though. Maybe ill just schedule something with the dealer tomorrow. everything is braking just fine now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,298 Posts
Honest now...how long has the fluid been in the system, especially the rear brake? If its the original and/or it looks the least bit darker than new fluid does, there's water in it. A thorough bleed is in order. Yes, brake fluid absorbs atmospheric moisture.
If you were my son, you'd go to bed without dinner for not installing new pads, at least in the front. You even admit they are crappy. What's your life worth? Less than that set of pads? Don't mess around with that which can save your life. Sheesh!
My money is on you being too heavy on the rear brake and too light on the front when it should be the other way around, as others have said before me. Don't deny it to us, just measure them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,199 Posts
Looking at your "disk" from the pictures it seems it got HOT, but you are saying that you use it normal and same as other riding before..... this leaves that your breakpads are glazed ....

Glazed breakpads need to be replaced or sanded and your "rotor" is NO PROBLEM

If you want to save your money, put a new grinding paper on the floor or mirror, and turn circles with your "removed break pads" and install them back.... the sanded break pads will follow the contour of the disks automatically after breaking from 100 to 0 a few times, needless to say, to check the "even sides" must be the same all around the break pads

The cause of Glazed break pads is "a lot of LIGHT breaking" sometimes when I have nobody in front or behind me, I like to go from 140 Km to 0 Km to clean the breakpads.... this is good and normal practice

Hope you can fix the problem mate cheers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,199 Posts
Last but not least, the break calipers need to be clean and functional, sometimes they could be a bit "stuck" so always giving pressure on your Rotor, this can be fixed easy also...

PS guys, let me know if the stock breaks are GOOD or BAD from Victory, as I see a lot of break-pad "dust" on my rims...

So what breakpads are good from what websites? Conquest? Victory? Witchdoctor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,298 Posts
See earlier posts BP6666VR....EBC HH brake pads seem to be the most popular. They are with me. Vast improvement over OEMs.
So do they spell things related to stopping a vehicle "BREAKS" in Indonesia? We spell it "BRAKES" here in the States. BREAK is something that fails...BRAKE is something that stops a vehicle. Just helping with your English as a second language.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,199 Posts
hahah good one about Brakes, thanks mate, sorry for my mistake sometime I get confused as I speak 5 languishes (3 of them fluent) and my Native tongue is Dutch

EBC HH brake pads, yes I did read that in earlier posts, OK I will search on the Victory websites for my next order of parts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,298 Posts
HA HA! I can almost speak English, but I only have 77 years of practice. Give me time.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Honest now...how long has the fluid been in the system, especially the rear brake? If its the original and/or it looks the least bit darker than new fluid does, there's water in it. A thorough bleed is in order. Yes, brake fluid absorbs atmospheric moisture.
If you were my son, you'd go to bed without dinner for not installing new pads, at least in the front. You even admit they are crappy. What's your life worth? Less than that set of pads? Don't mess around with that which can save your life. Sheesh!
My money is on you being too heavy on the rear brake and too light on the front when it should be the other way around, as others have said before me. Don't deny it to us, just measure them.
I have been around cars my whole life and built plenty of them, I know what brake fluid is supposed to look like. There is no water in my lines. On a brand new bike i shouldn't have to put new brake pads on as im not that hard on my brakes.Now yes i do want EBC pads as i have used them on numerous cars in the past but the correct way to do this is to do new pads and a good set of aftermarket rotors, this is a 500.00 job and i planned on waiting as i just got done putting some other mods on my bike. As stated in the previous post i did seem to have an issue a few weeks ago with the rear caliper getting stuck on the highway. I'm not denying anything lmao. Measure my pads?! my pads are fine again my bike only has about 5000 miles on it. I will get new ones eventually they just don't need replaced at this time. I'm contacting the dealer tomorrow and going to schedule an appt. All I wanted was more of an opinion on the rotor and the paint coming off of it.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top