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Discussion Starter #1
I need to change out the rear brakes. I've heard they're easy enough but has anyone run into any kinks or think there is something I should know?
 

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pads only or pads plus rotor?
 

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I just did a friend's Kingpin brakes front and rear. The front is a walk in the park, but the rear, although not complicated, has a couple things you need to know. After pulling the two R clips with a needle nose pliers, you'll need to drive out the two pins with a punch that will fit into the pin hole. Drive them toward the wheel, making sure a wheel spoke is not in the way. The first 1/2" will be tight, then it works free enough to pull it out.

After the pins are removed, GENTLY lift off the spring clip, being careful not to bend it. Note its position and commit that to memory. Next, with the old pads still in place, pry against the closest one to compress the pistons into the caliper, then remove both pads. They pull out upward.

Slip the new pads in making certain the lower tab is solidly hooked by pushing down on the upper tab. You should get a firm but springy feel. Replace the spring clip and the pins. They go in from the back to the front, plain end first. To seat the pins, you'll need a long metal shaft to hammer them into place. They need to be in far enough so the R clips can be inserted into their holes. Then keep pumping the lever until its firm. Done!
 

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are y'all doing this with the caliper still on the rotor? i've done several suzuki's that could be done like that but its usually more pain than its worth. so i just put the bike on a lift and pulled 2 bolts out of the suspension so the axle could fall past the exhaust and pulled the axle half out so the "brake bar" could drop with the caliper. after that it was pretty straight forward. i put ebc HH pads in and does seem to stop really good now even though they aren't even broke in yet.
 

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are y'all doing this with the caliper still on the rotor? i've done several suzuki's that could be done like that but its usually more pain than its worth. so i just put the bike on a lift and pulled 2 bolts out of the suspension so the axle could fall past the exhaust and pulled the axle half out so the "brake bar" could drop with the caliper. after that it was pretty straight forward. i put ebc HH pads in and does seem to stop really good now even though they aren't even broke in yet.
+1 for HH pads, especially EBCs. The rear pads on Kingpins can be changed out with the caliper in place and you laying on the floor. :D
 

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Just the pads. My rotors are perfect.
Assuming runout is ok on the rotors, scuff the surface liberally on both sides using a brillo pad and lubricating with brake cleaner. This gets the pad material off the surface to allow the new pads to bed in properly.

Again, this is assuming the rotors are within runout spec.
 

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Surprised no one mentioned taking a file to the edges of the pads to keep them from making that whirring noise for a thousand miles or so. Really works!

Yeah. It's really easy if you just go by the manual. Did mine a while back. Both front and back. No biggie at all...
 

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^forgot to mention that... we do it on all the pads we install, its weird they dont come that way like autos' do usually.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brakes

OK these brakes were the easiest brakes in the world. It was pretty self explanatory once you pull the cotter pin. Thanks for the help.
 

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I just did my rears on my Jackpot and I did the fronts a few days ago. Fronts easy. Rears easy but you need the right tools. I did file the edges like suggested. Rears are quiet. Fronts are still doing the touching sound. I took them out and redid them today and still making the rubbing sound. Not as bad as earlier today but still can hear it when coasting to a stop. As soon as I lightly touch the fronts it goes away. Oh well the good news is the bike stops great. The rears I took off had about 50 miles left almost at the rivets. Thanks for all the great advice
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Brakes

My front brakes are rubbing a little. I'd rather then rub than squeak or worse, not stop. Im hoping the rubbing goes away when they're broke in.
 

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It is a tight fit in the front so the new pads are thicker than stock so maybe that is why. A little rubbing is no issue as long as they work.
 

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My front brakes are rubbing a little. I'd rather then rub than squeak or worse, not stop. Im hoping the rubbing goes away when they're broke in.

This may or may not be ok. When are they rubbing (i.e. what are you doing at the brake lever when it's happening)?
 

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if you cant feel the brakes dragging when you are pushing the bike around, its most likely not an issue, but excessive drag will burn up pads and boil off your brake fluid and you can lose alot or all of your braking pressure.
 

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When pushing the bike around I can hear them. But when riding I have touched the rotor, very quickly to see how hot it is and not hot. Weird. I filed but it still makes the sound. I heard it will do this for about 1000 miles or so then it stops. Quirkey.
 
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