Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

Broken fuel pump nipple repair

33K views 76 replies 25 participants last post by  BenD 
#1 · (Edited)
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#2 ·
It sucks that you had to do this, but because of it we all benefit. Thanks for sharing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#3 ·
ALSOOOOO to add to this amaizing repair .... You can buy the fuel nipple on the tank side , so please remove the tank nipple and leave the engine nipple , exactly like RICZ says

NO wayyyyy you can buy the fuel nipple on the right hand engine side, impossible task ...

DORMAN 11.8 on the tank side ... no size on the engine size ...

RICZ you are the man of fixing this ... awsome


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 
  • Like
Reactions: FLVicRider and TNXR
#4 ·
I've had my tank off twice now by following the manual with no problems yet but I cringed thinking the worst would happen both times.
 
  • Like
Reactions: roadcouch
#5 ·
For years, I took my tank off by removing the fuel line from the engine. Last time, however, I removed it from the tank instead and quite frankly I thought it was easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#7 ·
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
There's that and, well, you like showing off your nipple. :grin

Thank you, we all needed to see it again. :wink
 
  • Like
Reactions: yago20 and broggyr
#8 ·
Yeah the manual says tank so that is what I plan on doing soon.
Thanks for the write up it should be sticky here.
 
#9 ·
Hey Ricz...had a little issue last night, and broke my fuel pump nipple...found this thread, and followed your instructions, and it went smooth..i did add Gas resistant Joint/Gasket maker to the tube, before I slid it into the fuel pump..and used JB weld for the epoxy of the 2 pieces..and it worked great..let it cure 100% tonight, and put it back together tomorrow for the big test..if it works, and I think it will, you saved me over $600Cdn..Just wanted to say Thanks, for sharing ..!
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the thanks. I'm all about saving money by spending the least I can. And I wasn't going to hand over to Polaris hundred$ for their poor design work. I have already done some work arounds on my Spyder, saving about $200 and I just got it about a month ago.
 
  • Like
Reactions: vindex1963
#11 ·
Great and easy repair. I agree it should be a sticky.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RICZ
#12 ·
I made it a sticky. Great suggestion.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I understand this is a pretty old thread. Hope it is still monitored. I'm pretty sure my nipple is cracked or broke. I installed my tank, took a 300 mile trip and gas mileage significantly reduced. I could see moisture under the tank area. When I originally removed the tank I disconnected fuel line behind right side cheese wedge. Avoiding the nipple under the tank. When I reinstalled the tank I must of bent it causing a crack.

Back to fixing the nipple. By your pics it seems like your metal/aluminum piece is pretty long... Are you just sliding the long metal piece in the pics in until the plastic lines back up applying glue/adhesive? Or are you cutting it? I didn't see a picture of you cutting the metal tube for a flush flit. You said tap the tubing into the pump... How much tubing should be tapped in? 1/4" inch or more? Sorry for being a newb and a little confused. I'm also concerned about drilling into the broken nipple to the pump/tank side. My concern is drilling some plastic into the pump area. I'm guessing that Drilling should allow the plastic to pull towards the bit, just drill from underneath the tank. I'm starting to figure it out. LOL
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Would this work?
 
#15 ·
Tommy, you need to re-read my instructions - it's all there. That tubing is good - either aluminum or steel works and makes the repair much stronger than the original.
NO CUTTING WHERE YOU INDICATE! Why cut it shorter and run the risk of failure? Once you have measured the length of the broken off part PLUS the depth of the plastic hole in the part on the tank and cut the tube to that length, that is how long a piece you need.
If you put a taper on the end of the tube that you are inserting INTO the top of the broken off piece. it'll go in easier, as it will in the part in the tank.
When drilling the part in the tank, prop the tank in such a way that you are drilling UPWARD and the shavings will fall harmlessly away.
Promise yourself that the next time you remove your tank, you disconnect the fuel line from the TOP.
 
#16 ·
I've had my tank off 3x with no issues. This last time I wasn't so fortunate. After this repair "fingers crossed" it won't happen again. I'll definitely do it from the top next time. LOL

So tapping some of the tubing into the pump(#8) is essentially for stability. My brain doesn't always work right. I was thinking the tubing should be flush at the tank break. Then thinking about it a little longer, if it was flush what's the point of the repair in the first place. The light bulb in my head is sparking like crazy. :grin

BTW thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: RICZ
#17 ·
Just be sure the drill bit you're using will provide a friction fit, not a loose one. A caliper will help with that.
 
#18 · (Edited)
So this is the tubing I purchased. Seems like the hole in the middle is a bit smaller than I expected. Or the aluminum is thicker. I guess I could drill that out too if need be. What do you think?
 

Attachments

#21 ·
No! That's how I broke my nipple - when replacing the tank, the line snagged on something. Disconnecting it at the top, I have more control of the line.
 
  • Like
Reactions: roadcouch
#23 ·
I find disconnecting at the tank to be a lot easier and much less messy. Not to forget easier on the fuel nipple. But that's just me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BP6666VR
#24 ·
Agree with Mr. Ricz .... AND always remember the fuel nipple on tank side you can buy from DORMAN, but the engine side is a "special" size that DORMAN does not make, so thats another reason to disconnect from the tankside ....

Auto part


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 
#25 ·
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
 
#26 ·
My fuel pump pipe broke off about 4 weeks ago and since I could not find a repair part I decided to make my own part using a table top drills press laid on it back and clamp so it would move, hacksaw, files, tap and die set and drilled. My first repair part took me 3 hours to make but this is my new part I am selling. You only have to drill and tap the fuel pump base and screw in my new part it is designed to fit the existing quick connect fitting and if done properly should give you no problems. I have had mine on my bike for 3 1/2 weeks with no problems. I ride my bike to work 5 days and week as I live in AZ. I usually ride year round even at high temps. If you are interested let me know. The one mounted into the fuel pump base is the one I made using hand tools. I now own a metal mini lathe and can make them allot better. Ride safe. Screw Auto part Cylinder Automotive engine part Hardware accessory
Screw Auto part Cylinder Automotive engine part Hardware accessory
Auto part Bumper Vehicle Hood Engine
Screw Auto part Subcompact car
 
#27 ·
What is your selling price and why is there a notch in the end without the threads?
 
#28 · (Edited)
That one's is the one on my bike and is the one I made by hand so when I was drilling it by hand the drilled hole ended up off center. But that doesn't affect its use so I used it anyway. I got a metal mini lathe for my birthday so now I use it to make them. I am selling them for $50.00 which includes first class mail with trcking. I have set up a paypal account for this purpose. I will try to always have one available for next day shipping unless I am dead.

Here is simplified ordering information and it will send you directly to my paypal account.
paypal.me/victoryfpn If you highlight the link then right click on the link and hit go to paypal.me/victoryfpn it will send you to my link and you can send payment and
information from there.
 
#29 ·
I do not need one right now. All four of my nipples are intact :) I was thinking about buying one to have on hand just in case I broke one. On the one hand, they can break and often do so at an inopportune time. On the other hand, I know to be super careful when removing and reinserting the quick connect.
 
#32 ·
Well I sell them thru paypal.me/victoryfpn for $30.00 and I have five made at this time they use a 9-1.25mm thread. I have a Harborfrieght tap and die set so this at the time seemed the best choice because standard size threads seemed to jump from either to small or to big. If you order one make sure to include address and I will send out ASAP. Thanks.
I broke my nipple gaz
Need one for victory hammer S 2009
Can you do it for me ?!
Thank you
 
#31 ·
Thanks. Will let you know if I decide to order one.
 
Top