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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
 

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It sucks that you had to do this, but because of it we all benefit. Thanks for sharing.


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ALSOOOOO to add to this amaizing repair .... You can buy the fuel nipple on the tank side , so please remove the tank nipple and leave the engine nipple , exactly like RICZ says

NO wayyyyy you can buy the fuel nipple on the right hand engine side, impossible task ...

DORMAN 11.8 on the tank side ... no size on the engine size ...

RICZ you are the man of fixing this ... awsome


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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I've had my tank off twice now by following the manual with no problems yet but I cringed thinking the worst would happen both times.
 

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For years, I took my tank off by removing the fuel line from the engine. Last time, however, I removed it from the tank instead and quite frankly I thought it was easier.


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Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
There's that and, well, you like showing off your nipple. :grin

Thank you, we all needed to see it again. :wink
 

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Yeah the manual says tank so that is what I plan on doing soon.
Thanks for the write up it should be sticky here.
 

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Hey Ricz...had a little issue last night, and broke my fuel pump nipple...found this thread, and followed your instructions, and it went smooth..i did add Gas resistant Joint/Gasket maker to the tube, before I slid it into the fuel pump..and used JB weld for the epoxy of the 2 pieces..and it worked great..let it cure 100% tonight, and put it back together tomorrow for the big test..if it works, and I think it will, you saved me over $600Cdn..Just wanted to say Thanks, for sharing ..!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the thanks. I'm all about saving money by spending the least I can. And I wasn't going to hand over to Polaris hundred$ for their poor design work. I have already done some work arounds on my Spyder, saving about $200 and I just got it about a month ago.
 

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Great and easy repair. I agree it should be a sticky.
 

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Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
I understand this is a pretty old thread. Hope it is still monitored. I'm pretty sure my nipple is cracked or broke. I installed my tank, took a 300 mile trip and gas mileage significantly reduced. I could see moisture under the tank area. When I originally removed the tank I disconnected fuel line behind right side cheese wedge. Avoiding the nipple under the tank. When I reinstalled the tank I must of bent it causing a crack.

Back to fixing the nipple. By your pics it seems like your metal/aluminum piece is pretty long... Are you just sliding the long metal piece in the pics in until the plastic lines back up applying glue/adhesive? Or are you cutting it? I didn't see a picture of you cutting the metal tube for a flush flit. You said tap the tubing into the pump... How much tubing should be tapped in? 1/4" inch or more? Sorry for being a newb and a little confused. I'm also concerned about drilling into the broken nipple to the pump/tank side. My concern is drilling some plastic into the pump area. I'm guessing that Drilling should allow the plastic to pull towards the bit, just drill from underneath the tank. I'm starting to figure it out. LOL
 

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Would this work?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Tommy, you need to re-read my instructions - it's all there. That tubing is good - either aluminum or steel works and makes the repair much stronger than the original.
NO CUTTING WHERE YOU INDICATE! Why cut it shorter and run the risk of failure? Once you have measured the length of the broken off part PLUS the depth of the plastic hole in the part on the tank and cut the tube to that length, that is how long a piece you need.
If you put a taper on the end of the tube that you are inserting INTO the top of the broken off piece. it'll go in easier, as it will in the part in the tank.
When drilling the part in the tank, prop the tank in such a way that you are drilling UPWARD and the shavings will fall harmlessly away.
Promise yourself that the next time you remove your tank, you disconnect the fuel line from the TOP.
 

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Tommy, you need to re-read my instructions - it's all there. That tubing is good - either aluminum or steel works and makes the repair much stronger than the original.
NO CUTTING WHERE YOU INDICATE! Why cut it shorter and run the risk of failure? Once you have measured the length of the broken off part PLUS the depth of the plastic hole in the part on the tank and cut the tube to that length, that is how long a piece you need.
If you put a taper on the end of the tube that you are inserting INTO the top of the broken off piece. it'll go in easier, as it will in the part in the tank.
When drilling the part in the tank, prop the tank in such a way that you are drilling UPWARD and the shavings will fall harmlessly away.
Promise yourself that the next time you remove your tank, you disconnect the fuel line from the TOP.
I've had my tank off 3x with no issues. This last time I wasn't so fortunate. After this repair "fingers crossed" it won't happen again. I'll definitely do it from the top next time. LOL

So tapping some of the tubing into the pump(#8) is essentially for stability. My brain doesn't always work right. I was thinking the tubing should be flush at the tank break. Then thinking about it a little longer, if it was flush what's the point of the repair in the first place. The light bulb in my head is sparking like crazy. :grin

BTW thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just be sure the drill bit you're using will provide a friction fit, not a loose one. A caliper will help with that.
 

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Just be sure the drill bit you're using will provide a friction fit, not a loose one. A caliper will help with that.
So this is the tubing I purchased. Seems like the hole in the middle is a bit smaller than I expected. Or the aluminum is thicker. I guess I could drill that out too if need be. What do you think?
 

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I thought the safe way of removing the tank so you didn’t risk breaking the nipple off at the tank was pushing in the two release green buttons on the coupler where the gas line meets the injectors? No?
 

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That's how I take the tank off....

8)

Rob
 
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