No! That's how I broke my nipple - when replacing the tank, the line snagged on something. Disconnecting it at the top, I have more control of the line.
No! That's how I broke my nipple - when replacing the tank, the line snagged on something. Disconnecting it at the top, I have more control of the line.I thought the safe way of removing the tank so you didn’t risk breaking the nipple off at the tank was pushing in the two release green buttons on the coupler where the gas line meets the injectors? No?
Everyone used to quote Witchdoctor as an expert. Here's his technique that I guess you believe is wrong? Go to 2:25 markNo! That's how I broke my nipple - when replacing the tank, the line snagged on something. Disconnecting it at the top, I have more control of the line.
Agree with Mr. Ricz .... AND always remember the fuel nipple on tank side you can buy from DORMAN, but the engine side is a "special" size that DORMAN does not make, so thats another reason to disconnect from the tankside ....I find disconnecting at the tank to be a lot easier and much less messy. Not to forget easier on the fuel nipple. But that's just me.
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
Some guys on other sites that I frequent, are wanting to see my repair for a broken fuel pump nipple, so here goes.
First, I fatherly lecture as how to prevent this. The manual says when removing the tank, disconnect the fuel line at the lower end. Big mistake IMO. I find I have much more control over what the line is doing when I disconnect it from the top. The nipple breaks because side pressure is applied to the hose when it is connected to the pump and the tank is being lowered.
Now for the directions for the repair.........
1. Obtain a piece of 1/4" steel tubing - aluminum will do if steel is not available. It's sold by the foot and one foot will be more than enough.
2. With the tank angled so the remaining nipple is pointing downward, so nothing gets into the pump, drill the hole in the nipple with a bit that will provide an interference (friction) fit.
3. Do the same with the broken off piece.
4. Measure the depth of the hole in the pump part of the nipple.
5. Measure the length of the broken off part.
6. Cut the tubing to the two lengths added together. It helps to grind a taper on the end of the tubing.
7. Gently tap the tubing into the broken piece until it is flush with the top end of it. It could help to put some adhesive on the tubing and/or in the hole.
8. Place some adhesive like Super Glue on the two broken parts and tap the tubing into the pump, minding the orientation so they mate and the glue bonds.
You are done.
I broke my nipple gazWell I sell them thru paypal.me/victoryfpn for $30.00 and I have five made at this time they use a 9-1.25mm thread. I have a Harborfrieght tap and die set so this at the time seemed the best choice because standard size threads seemed to jump from either to small or to big. If you order one make sure to include address and I will send out ASAP. Thanks.
Do you still have any of the nipples made up? I just broke mine off tonight and this looks like a solid repair. What is your PayPal? I can send the money ASAP.If you know how to drill and tap a hole for a 9-1.25 mm thread it will go in no problem if you want me to do it you would have to send me just the base and I could drill and tap it to ensure proper fit. Not hard to do really just need to get the tap and drill bit. take pump out of tank and take pump hose off so that trimmings will not go into the fuel system. If you need more information just let me know.
I believe I do if not I can always make another one. Cost is $50.00 which includes shipping via USPS. Just need to pay at [email protected] Just let me know and I will try to send one out as soon as I get payment. If out of country allot more shipping and paperwork involved. Never sent one but found out it is allot of hassle.Do you still have any of the nipples made up? I just broke mine off tonight and this looks like a solid repair. What is your PayPal? I can send the money ASAP.
Thank you I am looking forward to getting back on the road. Payment being sent now. I am in CTWell after two months riding my motorcycle in the heat of AZ my FPN is still doing great. Thanks to those who bought one and I hope you never have to use it but I just thought I would let people know it is still working.
If you don’t mind shooting me an email to confirm the payment [email protected]. Not sure if my address will be attached as well.Thank you I am looking forward to getting back on the road. Payment being sent now. I am in CT