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Has anyone taken their cam tensioners apart? Looking at the Victory parts break down it appears as though they sell the hydraulic tensioner seperate from the body (the large aluminum body thats exposed). I had mine out the other day to double check the timing after my cams. when I pulled the rear one and the outer plunger goes into the body about 1/4 inch with no resistance the inner plunger has resistance through its entire travel with no binding. The outer plunger on the front does not move in or out of the body at all. So I was going to pull it apart and see if the spring or what not is broken inside. I know the front and rear tensioners are different length. When I go to screw the rear one back in I can tighten it all the way down with my fingers....doesn't seem to be much resistance at all. any thoughts?
 

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Well I can see this forum is going to be a big help. I had mine out and have the same question. Here is link to a video I posted. I tried posting on the other forum and got some help but not enough.
 

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I've been wondering the same thing. Going to take mine over to the Indian dealer and ask them to check them. Believe they should be somewhat resistant to screwing back in.
 

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screwing back in? As in re-installing them in the cylinder wall.
 

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When you have an issue no one has seen before it is hard to help you. As VJ mentioned the Vic shop is a good resource as they know more about the engines internally than you'll find posted on forums.
 

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When you have an issue no one has seen before it is hard to help you. As VJ mentioned the Vic shop is a good resource as they know more about the engines internally than you'll find posted on forums.
I called them first when i was afraid i was looking at buying a new used motor. Raylan (i that was who I spoke with said it was difficult to determine over the phone even if he did here a recording of the sound. He said he very rarely see issues with the cam chain system and it also was not likely to be in the transmission if all the gears work fine. His experience has been often the front cylinder fails and at a minimum you or i would end up needing a new cylinder liner and piston. When the local guy suggested it was likely the tensioner (one or the other or both i did not want to bother Raylan again. When i called him about the motor I legitimately had an interest in buying a new used motor so i did not mind or feel guilty about picking his brain. Now that i am involved with fixing the tenioners myself I would guilty asking them how to do it. It is like taking work away from them. Fortunately this was one of three or four threads that came up when i did a search and this was the first one on the list by the end of reading all four i got most of my questions answered,

the short story is tenioners do fail and lead several different noticeable noises. If you pull them out you may not be able to see evidence that one both are not working properly. The free play difference is by design via the cap. The lifter in each is the same and with some pulling with a vise and some channel locks they can be pulled from the cap. Putting in know good ones is really the only definite way to know if they were the problem. After 80k miles it seemed like angood idea to just order two new lifters and install them and hope the sounds go away completely and for the foreseeable future. Parts are hopefully on the and we will have some answers soon
 
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Yeah I suggested the free play might be different with the different caps on the other forum. It makes sense. Really seems like an easy problem to fix if it is indeed the source of your noise. Hope it works for you.
 

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Keep in mind there is a front and rear. The video shows the difference
 
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