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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered drop in cams from LLoydz. I figure after I install my cams, I should be putting around 110 to the pavement. I figure I'm pretty close to 100 now. I have no need for a dyno tune since I run the AFR+ but I might put it on a dyno at our Bikes Blues & BBQ motorcycle rally in September just to see what the numbers are. I considered the HPT cams but it's just more work and $ for the bang in my opinion. I'm not afraid to do the clearancing myself. But I wouldn't put in those cams without upgrading the clutch. Most don't need to but apparently some do. It would be really pushing the HP rating on the stock clutch. I hear it's rated at 130 but there was a guy on here with 125 who's clutch couldn't take it. Then you're getting into a harder pull on the lever (it's already too hard at stock) or hydraulic and that just adds to the money thing. Soooo drop in cams is where I stop. Hopefully he has them in stock and I can do the install next weekend! thumb up

Oh yeah, Lloyd recommends breaking them in by "riding normal". Does anybody have a clue as to how many miles or hours until his cams are broke in. I know it would vary but just a ballpark? I've not spoke to him, I ordered online. Was hoping somebody here who has already done the cams spoke with him about it.
 

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All Kyle told me after installing Cams at the Southeast Rally was Ride it like you stole it .. And having a 400 Mile Ride to get home was very easy to do .. I have almost 8,000 Miles on them now and Running Great !!
 

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I just ordered drop in cams from LLoydz. I figure after I install my cams, I should be putting around 110 to the pavement. I figure I'm pretty close to 100 now. I have no need for a dyno tune since I run the AFR+ but I might put it on a dyno at our Bikes Blues & BBQ motorcycle rally in September just to see what the numbers are. I considered the HPT cams but it's just more work and $ for the bang in my opinion. I'm not afraid to do the clearancing myself. But I wouldn't put in those cams without upgrading the clutch. Most don't need to but apparently some do. It would be really pushing the HP rating on the stock clutch. I hear it's rated at 130 but there was a guy on here with 125 who's clutch couldn't take it. Then you're getting into a harder pull on the lever (it's already too hard at stock) or hydraulic and that just adds to the money thing. Soooo drop in cams is where I stop. Hopefully he has them in stock and I can do the install next weekend! thumb up

Oh yeah, Lloyd recommends breaking them in by "riding normal". Does anybody have a clue as to how many miles or hours until his cams are broke in. I know it would vary but just a ballpark? I've not spoke to him, I ordered online. Was hoping somebody here who has already done the cams spoke with him about it.
There is a moly cam lube that you can apply on assembly to protect the cam on initial fireup which is the critical time in breaking in a new camshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
There is a moly cam lube that you can apply on assembly to protect the cam on initial fireup which is the critical time in breaking in a new camshaft.
yeah, I ordered the Polaris brand lube specified in the manual. Just didn't know if Lloyd had a certain time frame of "normal riding" on the cams before we can beat on them.
 

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yeah, I ordered the Polaris brand lube specified in the manual. Just didn't know if Lloyd had a certain time frame of "normal riding" on the cams before we can beat on them.
Running in the camshaft on a V8 Ford the procedure was run it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes .
Thats generally the instructions for running in a new camshaft as the first 20 minutes of its life lubrication is vital and if it was to just say idle for 20 mins it wouldnt get enough oil..
So I'd say riding it normal is just get on and ride.
I imagine by the time youve ridden for half an hour you can start getting up it.
 

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There is no break in time. The builders install the cams, warm it up and put it right on the dyno. Just change the oil after 100-200 miles. I did my cams and found it easier to remove the cam carriers and blow out the cam locator pins with air. Some say you can use a magnet to pull the pins out right in the bike, but that didn't work on mine. Good luck with yours.
 

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I have always veered my speed for the first two hundred miles. I short shift a lot so you don't wind it out tight in any gear.
When running down the hwy doing 60 or 70 I let off the gas for a second or two and then bring it back up to what ever speed so the top end gets flooded with oil
 

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There is no break in time. The builders install the cams, warm it up and put it right on the dyno. Just change the oil after 100-200 miles. I did my cams and found it easier to remove the cam carriers and blow out the cam locator pins with air. Some say you can use a magnet to pull the pins out right in the bike, but that didn't work on mine. Good luck with yours.
I used a magnet on the rear pot cos I couldn't get the carrier out. Used compressed air on the front one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I ordered some magnets too, we'll see how that goes.

Regarding the posted question and the comments posted, this is why I asked what Lloyd recommends. Everybody has their own opinion, I have mine, I've built complete engines (in a automobiles and 1 outboard). Some here say no break in and ride it like you stole it, then there is the 20 minute ride, then there is a couple hundred mile ride. :crzy:

I do appreciate the responses thumb up but does anybody know what Lloyd recommends? He made these cams so it's really his opinion I'm after. I reckon I'll shoot him an email. cheers
 

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I ordered some magnets too, we'll see how that goes.

Regarding the posted question and the comments posted, this is why I asked what Lloyd recommends. Everybody has their own opinion, I have mine, I've built complete engines (in a automobiles and 1 outboard). Some here say no break in and ride it like you stole it, then there is the 20 minute ride, then there is a couple hundred mile ride. :crzy:

I do appreciate the responses thumb up but does anybody know what Lloyd recommends? He made these cams so it's really his opinion I'm after. I reckon I'll shoot him an email. cheers
Great idea! Let us know what he says.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I contacted Lloyd regarding his recommended break in for his cams. He said absolutely no break in of any kind. Install them and get on it.

I'm happy to hear that :D
 

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Thats right. You'll love the cams. I greatly enjoy the power with the Lloydz cams. Let us know how it goes and how you like them once you get them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Installed my cams this morning. Took longer than it should've but I took my time a double checked EVERYTHING. I spent about 7 hrs including test ride and AFR+ tune adjustments (on the fly :D ). The sound coming from under the tank is impressive to say the least. I'm not sure yet if I gained, lost or remain the same at the 2,500 rpm area...in other words I can't tell at 2,500 BUT I know for certain that at 3,000 rpm and up she is mean! She got louder as rpms went up and there didn't seem to be much time for me to grab another gear. Jumped right up to 100 real quick. Me and a buddy of mine who rides a '14 street glide been going tit for tat. We been actually working together on both bikes. We put some screamin eagle stuff on his and a tuner. Before my cams I had a hard time staying with him. He'd actually gain ground on me and I'd gain it back little by little. After the cam install we went for a test ride and he stayed with me through my 3rd gear then he just got smaller and smaller in my mirror. Forget the brand, I'm not really using the brand as a comparison, just a specific bike that I know I struggled with before the cams and left him after the cams.

I'm a happy Rebel! thumb up
 

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Happiness being the ultimate goal.
 

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I just ordered drop in cams from LLoydz. I figure after I install my cams, I should be putting around 110 to the pavement. I figure I'm pretty close to 100 now. I have no need for a dyno tune since I run the AFR+ but I might put it on a dyno at our Bikes Blues & BBQ motorcycle rally in September just to see what the numbers are. I considered the HPT cams but it's just more work and $ for the bang in my opinion. I'm not afraid to do the clearancing myself. But I wouldn't put in those cams without upgrading the clutch. Most don't need to but apparently some do. It would be really pushing the HP rating on the stock clutch. I hear it's rated at 130 but there was a guy on here with 125 who's clutch couldn't take it. Then you're getting into a harder pull on the lever (it's already too hard at stock) or hydraulic and that just adds to the money thing. Soooo drop in cams is where I stop. Hopefully he has them in stock and I can do the install next weekend! thumb up

Oh yeah, Lloyd recommends breaking them in by "riding normal". Does anybody have a clue as to how many miles or hours until his cams are broke in. I know it would vary but just a ballpark? I've not spoke to him, I ordered online. Was hoping somebody here who has already done the cams spoke with him about it.
I have a 2012 Cross Country Tour and have a stage 1 PC5 tuner and am looking for cams now myself, where did you purchase your LLoyds cams from? Do they make a kit?
 

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I have a 2012 Cross Country Tour and have a stage 1 PC5 tuner and am looking for cams now myself, where did you purchase your LLoyds cams from? Do they make a kit?
 

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