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Discussion Starter #1
Yes. An oil thread...

Thing is, I've got quite a lot of this Mobil 1 V-Twin fully synthetic lying around (used to use it in the Harley). Manual calls for semi-synthetic 20:40. The Mobil is 20:50 and fully synthetic.

Thanks.
 

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I've used it the last 10k. Xmission shifts alot better and I can find neutral now.
 

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As long as it is JASO approved, this is for the wet clutch. Wrong oil will F#CK your clutch......:mad:
 

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Oil is oil and everybody has an opinion about it. If you are concerned then follow your owners manual. If not then just make sure the oil can be used in bikes with a wet clutch.
 

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like I said if it is not JASO approved it will mess up your clutch..
No, it *may* cause a clutch to slip. Harleys have a wet clutch so if the oil worked for it it should certainly work for the Victory. The oils to avoid are those that have "friction modifiers."

There are several JASO specs. This is the one I believe you are referring to:

JASO MA
Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oil system for engine, gearbox and wet clutch system. Fluid is non-friction modified.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies.

Got a bottle of the Mobil V-Twin here. Says JASO MA so I'm guessing it's fine for the wet clutch.

Thanks again.
 

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Should be fine, ran the same stuff in my suzuki for years and made it shift much better. May do the same for your Vic.
 

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Thanks for the replies.

Got a bottle of the Mobil V-Twin here. Says JASO MA so I'm guessing it's fine for the wet clutch.

Thanks again.
And don't worry about JASO MA vs. JASO MA2. They are both fine for wet clutches. One is a bit better for the catalytic converters hence the environment but both are pretty close in their composition. Just stick with the MA designator overall until it eventually changes to MB or whatever?
 

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Ater you use up the Mobil 1 you can do what I am if you want to be in stgrick 20-40 compliance,
Castrol evo Semi Syn 20-40.....
 

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My own perspective, and it is just that, is why would you ever use 50 weight oil in a bike designed to use 40 weight oil? Unless the outdoor temperatures are very low, the only number you really care about is the "summer" rating for the oil. If Vic specifies 40, I see no reason to use 50. Heavier oil will give you a reduced ability to flow to critical engine components with the engine at operating temperatures. That is not a situation that I would want on any of my engines in my cars or bikes. The 10W vs 20W is a minor point. Only when the engine is very cold would that make any difference. A 10W40 is far superior to a 20W50 when it comes to matching the Vic specification of 20W40.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Heavier oil will give you a reduced ability to flow to critical engine components with the engine at operating temperatures.
I suppose that was my concern. I appreciate the Victory is a higher pressure system than my old Harley and wondered if using 50 over 40 would make much difference. Anyway, the other option I had was another Mobil that's 10:40. Not sure what the implications of that weight are.

The service book for my HD suggests using 10:40 over 20:50 when the minimum expected temperature is, well, can't remember - but during colder seasons. Tried to make sense of this by reading everything wikipedia etc. had to offer but it just made my brain hurt (and I'm trying to let my brain lay fallow this year).
 

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Either should work for you. People are running virtually everything up to astroglide in their motors. Several have posted oil analysis sheets if you're interested enough to read them.

I'm planning on switching to Mobil 20 50 or Amsoil on my next change. I just haven't decided yet.


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Discussion Starter #17
Did the oil change today. Guessing it still had the original oil in there. Bike's only done 1,400km. I'm the second owner and I doubt it's had its first service (oil wasn't particularly dirty but not clean either).

My initial thoughts are that I'm disappointed with the Mobil 20:50. Not sure what I was expecting but the gearbox is still clunky. Was hoping somehow that it'd be quieter.

Later in the day I did the belt tension (had about 25mm of deflection instead of the book's 6mm). Yes. Got the right tool for the job and took my time to ensure I did it right. Anyway, maybe the slack belt was part of the geabox 1st into 2nd "k'lank". Will see tomorrow.
 
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