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Discussion Starter #1
My Lloydz adjustable timing wheel is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, Monday. Much research and searching the forums haven't really shed a definitive light as to where to proceed with this.

I spend most of my time touring the open highway loaded up pretty good with a passenger. The procedure looks simple enough on You Tube and other write ups but some seem to struggle with the removal and install which baffles me a little.

Also others say they ping on premium with as little as 3 degrees of advance. That's discouraging to hear. My CCT is a 2013 I have unplugged the o2's and installed the stage one washable filter but left the gasket installed because of personal preference and I just wanted the filter that I could clean over and over.

My bike runs great on 87 octane and delivers 43 MPG while loaded and riding at 70-75 mph. I've heard and agree that from 2k-2.5K RPM's the bike is a little light on torque. From 2800 up it has plenty of torque. I bought this adjustable wheel to shift the torque curve down in the soft 2-2.5K range.

So many have posted that they can run 6 degrees on regular and others 3 on premium pings. I'm assuming these bikes are vastly set up differently than others. I can't see a fairly stock bike like my model having vastly different settings as the ECM's are all set with the same parameters on the CCT and one shouldn't be able to run 6 degrees on regular and another ping on premium with 3 degrees. So yes I feel puzzled.

Everything I've read on this adjustable timing wheel tells me it's the best bang for the buck so I took the plunge!

Give me some idea on what to expect to get a a fairly stock CCT with unplugged O2 sensors and what gas I should run given the timing I set it at. Seems to me 4 seems to be conservative and lots have reported that 6 the bike really comes alive?

Please shoot me some opinions on your install and setting issues with a relatively stock CC or CCT? I'll be looking for the package tomorrow when I get off work! wac
 

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My 2014 XCT is stock with the timing wheel and O2's unplugged.
I run 89 octane only and my wheel is at +4.
I immediately noticed a smoother running engine and more low end torque.
I tried +6 and noticed a slightly longer starting procedure and a bit of backfiring every now and then, and not much more performance gain.
Once while stuck in traffic and the engine got hot, as I was getting on the highway and leaned on the throttle I heard 2 pings.
I relaxed the throttle until the air cooled the engine and it was ok after that.
I decided to bring it back to +4 because for my bike that is where it runs the best.
The O2 disconnect makes my engine run a bit cooler.
My fuel mileage has remained the same no matter what I do, so far.
Your bike may be different.
 

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I'm running the Lloydz air filter, VFC-III, timing wheel set at +4, and a pair of Nascar6 slipon's. I put the air filter, VFC and timing wheel on at the same time. I removed the airbox gasket as well. That bike came alive with that set up. O2 sensors are disconnected as well and I also run only 93 octane. No pinging that I have heard.

I'm going to get the bike down to KevinX sometime soon to do some fine tuning. He did give me a good program to run in the VFC because I did have a lot of popping with the map Lloydz gave me.

Best investment so far and my MPG is still pretty good, 39-44. Just depends on how hard I ride.
 

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im back to 8 with mine, so far no ping. pcv with auto tune, lloydz filter, vm1 cams, miller mufflers
 

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there was a poll here and 90% of the guys are running +4
never heard of any one pinging at +3
you only need 89 or 91 octane gas. 89 is good for flat ground or medium hills. 91 is better for mountain country.
93 octane will cause carbon build up.

Most all the guys could wiggle off the old wheel with using there both their hands. Watch the wires on the left corner of the cam cover so you don't pinch them.
This is the best video out there

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S_rTuKFWZI&index=9&list=PLeIq7RaUz778vNGayfrfpc_7rI6kt2kCx
 

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At +4 mine was a little sluggish starting up. I bumped it to +5 and the bike jumps to life. I just installed the PC-V with a Lloyds map but haven't had much time to ride it and see if it made a big difference. Although the first couple of starts took a few cranks to breath life into it. For the most part I run 91 octane, ethanol free gas
 

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The setting depends quite a bit on what else has been done to the bike and where you are at temperature wise. Mine is at +8* now and have zero issues. I used to run it at +6* without a tune and with slipons and an air filter. If you want to play it safe, run it at the +4* that it will arrive at, use regular fuel like you are now and listen for pinging. If pinging, drop by one degree. I doubt it'll be an issue.
 

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Lloydz and Rylan all say to crack the throttle a bit when starting bike for easier start up

yes anyone with cams have the ATS at different setting. For us that don't have cams +4 is good
 

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i ran mine without cams at 8, after cams(early spring this year) i had ping, thinking it was a different mix of gas, now i was trying to find a vibration that seems to be motor related around 3,000 rpms, so i pulled the wheel thinking that was it, did nothing but made it a pig again, figured what the hell, put the wheelback in at 8 to see if it made any difference. power is back, no ping.
 

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With DR cams, Lloyd's filter, baffles drilled and cats absent, PCV and dyno. Originally the wheel was set to +6. It produced great power but pinged below 2500 RPMs. I had to move the wheel to +2 to stop the pinging. Then I added 4 more to all cells above 2500 with the PCV to restore the original timing from the tune. So the net, in my case, was 2 degrees below 2500 with the wheel. I would not buy the wheel again, but then I do have a PCV which addresses timing above 2500 nicely.
Anyone looking for an AT?
 

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This is my second go around on Cross bikes with the ATS. Both bikes "woke up" a bit under 2500 rpm after adding it. The 10 XR with ATS, cams, true duals, and filter liked it set just under +4. The 15 XCT with ATS and filter likes it right at +4. The original timing wheel was easy to get off of both bikes by pulling straight off. The removal and install takes all of 20 minutes.
 

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With DR cams, Lloyd's filter, baffles drilled and cats absent, PCV and dyno. Originally the wheel was set to +6. It produced great power but pinged below 2500 RPMs. I had to move the wheel to +2 to stop the pinging. Then I added 4 more to all cells above 2500 with the PCV to restore the original timing from the tune. So the net, in my case, was 2 degrees below 2500 with the wheel. I would not buy the wheel again, but then I do have a PCV which addresses timing above 2500 nicely.
Anyone looking for an AT?
Pinging doesn't necessarily come from the ATS. I'm not trying to pick a argument with you but I have to ask.
Why do Lloydz, Kevinx, Rylan and Kyle all install the ATS and from what I have read set it to +4 and say you should run 91 octane with cams. I don't read where guys have had pinging problems.
 

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Lloyd himself will tell you to adjust it, thats why its an adjustable timing setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally put my timing wheel on yesterday. Easier than I thought it would be after seeing some of the nightmare issues some have posted. I tried really hard to save the stock gasket but is was cemented hard to both the cover and engine. Thank goodness I bought the Lloydz's gasket. I was shocked how hard the stock gear bolt was to back out. Victory put this white **** on the entire bolt and I've never seen that color locktite before. It never got easy until the last 2 turns! Cleaned the hole in screwed into and bolt so that it would hand screw in easily. The wheel came off the key way with one easy pull.

All the instructions I've seen on You Tube show removing the floor board and moving it aside. I did that but putting it back on was a real bitch. Next time I will loosen the front bolt almost all the way and then remove the rear bolt so I can just swing down the floor board to get access to the bottom case screw.

Set the wheel to 4 degrees and put locktite (blue). Red is too much IMHO and torqued the wheel bolt to 17 lbs and the two outer bolts to 8 lbs. Used Windex on all the hard to reach places and waxed that side of the motor then buttoned up everything and let the lock tite set up overnight.

Bike started right up. Went and got gas and for the first time put premium in it just in case. Never used anything but 87 regular up to this point. Power wise? The thing you notice is that small throttle openings 5-25% the bike picks up speed quite a bit quicker and lower in the rpm range. 2300 RPM's you have sharp strong pull with lower throttle movement. Ran it up to 5000 RPM's and no ping and ran fine. It's the bottom end and small throttle openings that you feel it.

Next tank will be mid grade 89 to see how it runs. Overall I like the sharper part throttle response lower in the rev range. I found myself speeding down some 50 MPH boulevards at 65 because of how quickly small throttle openings got me up to that speed.

You can feel a difference in the engine. I can't put my finger on it but you can feel a more gnarly growl to it.
 

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Finally put my timing wheel on yesterday. Easier than I thought it would be after seeing some of the nightmare issues some have posted. I tried really hard to save the stock gasket but is was cemented hard to both the cover and engine. Thank goodness I bought the Lloydz's gasket. I was shocked how hard the stock gear bolt was to back out. Victory put this white **** on the entire bolt and I've never seen that color locktite before. It never got easy until the last 2 turns! Cleaned the hole in screwed into and bolt so that it would hand screw in easily. The wheel came off the key way with one easy pull.

All the instructions I've seen on You Tube show removing the floor board and moving it aside. I did that but putting it back on was a real bitch. Next time I will loosen the front bolt almost all the way and then remove the rear bolt so I can just swing down the floor board to get access to the bottom case screw.

Set the wheel to 4 degrees and put locktite (blue). Red is too much IMHO and torqued the wheel bolt to 17 lbs and the two outer bolts to 8 lbs. Used Windex on all the hard to reach places and waxed that side of the motor then buttoned up everything and let the lock tite set up overnight.

Bike started right up. Went and got gas and for the first time put premium in it just in case. Never used anything but 87 regular up to this point. Power wise? The thing you notice is that small throttle openings 5-25% the bike picks up speed quite a bit quicker and lower in the rpm range. 2300 RPM's you have sharp strong pull with lower throttle movement. Ran it up to 5000 RPM's and no ping and ran fine. It's the bottom end and small throttle openings that you feel it.

Next tank will be mid grade 89 to see how it runs. Overall I like the sharper part throttle response lower in the rev range. I found myself speeding down some 50 MPH boulevards at 65 because of how quickly small throttle openings got me up to that speed.

You can feel a difference in the engine. I can't put my finger on it but you can feel a more gnarly growl to it.

New mods are so much fun, especially the easy ones with such a large pay off. When you're ready for something else that's cheap and easy, try the 1/4 throttle ring. Nothing for performance, but it does cut down on the amount of input required on the throttle.

If you left it at +4 I have a feeling you should be able to run it with regular gas. And if you can run it with regular gas in the middle of summer, spring and fall shouldn't be any different.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well it's been a week now with the timing wheel on set to 4 degrees. I tried a tank of mid grade 89 and it ran ok, no ping. One thing that I did notice is that I felt more heat from the engine and the bike didn't seem quite so smooth at 75 MPH or 2850rpms. Not sure if I'm looking for a negative side or not.

Has anyone had a similar experience? I'm going to play around and try 6 (definitely premium gas) and then 2 just to see.
 
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