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Discussion Starter #1
Actually I will compare 5 lowers. I posted this on the other forun as well.

Over the last 8 months or so, my bike has spent many many weeks at Cee Baileys while they worked on different windshields and lowers for the XC (I travel a lot, and live close to their shop). Over the last 12 months I have owned the XC I find I love the bike and have hated the buffeting.

I have tried the Victory fork mounted deflectors, the Victory soft closeouts, the Baker Wings, Several of CBs hard lowers, and yesterday installed the new Victory hard lowers. I have tried them with the new CB Cee Silencer, the Cee Dragon, the factory 10” tall and the CB 9” shields. I am 5’9”, and wear a ¾ helmet.

First of all, an observation about windshields. With all the lowers, I found they work better with a see thru (vs see over) shield. Apparently Victory found the same, as the new Tour has (for most) a see thru shield as well.

For me, the Victory fork deflectors didn’t do much, maybe a 2-3 on a scale of 1-10. Cost: $250 or so

The soft closeouts work pretty well, but for me were a little cheesy on such a nice bike. Plus, they hard to put on for someone like me. Hard to rate because of this but a 6-7 for effectiveness. Cost $100

The Baker Wings were OK, but didn’t really fit well. Seemed like they were using existing parts, not really made for the XC. Also, I didn’t really like the look, although they work super on my Gold Wing (go figure). I would rate them maybe a 4-5 .Cost $225

For me, the CB hard lowers work the best of these four. Absolutely no buffeting with the winter version and a tall shield. I used this combo on a 900 mile 2 day ride and loved it. There are different sizes and for summer/winter, and they have some adjustability. I had no issue with heat, but some do. I originally rated these a 9, but now would say an 8. Biggest issue is lack of vents. Cost $280.

After trying so hard to fix the buffeting I had to try the new factory hard lowers. For me, they are a 10 due to the adjustability of both the vents and the air wings.With everything closed it reminds me of my Gold Wing (with way more character). I have not yet had an opportunity to try them in hot weather (SoCal not cooperating) but the magazine road tests I have read seem to indicate they are fine with temps into the mid 90s. Opening the vents on the freeway sure resulted in lots of air but NO buffeting.What’s also nice is this can be done while riding. I also like the two compartments, great for my garage door opener. Looks are a subjective thing. I first saw these in person on a white XC and they looked almost too big. On my black bike they don’t seem as big, but that may be just because it’s mine.

Cost?..well this is the problem. They retail for about $1500 (the lowers, round bars and air wings), plus tax if you get them locally. I got mine for $1200 from Honda Toledo (free shipping), but they are still many times the cost of all the alternatives. I think anyone buying a new XC would be crazy not to get the Tour.

My plan now is see if Joe at CB can make me a smaller shield with the Gold Wing vent.
 

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Paid the money and went factory lowers. It is the best upgrade I've made to the bike.
 

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...Over the last 8 months or so, my bike has spent many many weeks at Cee Baileys while they worked on different windshields and lowers for the XC (I travel a lot, and live close to their shop). Over the last 12 months I have owned the XC I find I love the bike and have hated the buffeting.

I have tried the Victory fork mounted deflectors, the Victory soft closeouts, the Baker Wings, Several of CBs hard lowers, and yesterday installed the new Victory hard lowers. I have tried them with the new CB Cee Silencer, the Cee Dragon, the factory 10” tall and the CB 9” shields. I am 5’9”, and wear a ¾ helmet....
So to put another spin on value, based on your ratings and costs, one would end up paying these amounts for each percent of satisfaction (in order from cheapest to most expensive):

Soft Closeouts: $1.54/percent of satisfaction
CB lowers: $3.29/percent of satisfaction
Baker Wings: $5.00/percent of satisfaction
Vic Lowers: $10.00/percent of satisfaction
Vic Hard Dflctrs: $12.00/percent of satisfaction

So the cheapest thrill are the soft lowers, with the CB lowers coming in second when considering value. This was based on gregbenner's ratings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So to put another spin on value, based on your ratings and costs, one would end up paying these amounts for each percent of satisfaction (in order from cheapest to most expensive):

Soft Closeouts: $1.54/percent of satisfaction
CB lowers: $3.29/percent of satisfaction
Baker Wings: $5.00/percent of satisfaction
Vic Lowers: $10.00/percent of satisfaction
Vic Hard Dflctrs: $12.00/percent of satisfaction

So the cheapest thrill are the soft lowers, with the CB lowers coming in second when considering value. This was based on gregbenner's ratings.
I'm a CPA, and admit I never thought of exactly that waycheers
 

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Way to go CR! You nailed it! :D

I think I found a good compromise out here in the belly of the beast where it can get to 120 during the day.

Vic fairing winglets and fork lowers. I have to see how difficult it is to take the factory lowers off and on before I decide whether to leave the tube crash bars on during the hot months. It might be better to just leave them attached to the tube bars and pull them as a set.

Maybe you can shine some light on that one Greg...
 

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Way to go CR! You nailed it! :D

I think I found a good compromise out here in the belly of the beast where it can get to 120 during the day.

Vic fairing winglets and fork lowers. I have to see how difficult it is to take the factory lowers off and on before I decide whether to leave the tube crash bars on during the hot months. It might be better to just leave them attached to the tube bars and pull them as a set.

Maybe you can shine some light on that one Greg...
I'm not looking at my bike (at airport currently) but I'm pretty sure you could pull the entire right side (bar and lowers). If you have the iPod connector on the left, you'll need to pull the outer section of the left lower first. Not hard, obviously. Also, you'd have to reroute the iPod wiring to the saddlebag again, so remove the seat, remove the saddlebag, raise the tank, route the audio cable, reattach the iPod connector through the saddle bag and put everything back together.
 

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Jagular: I'm going to leave the iPod cord in the right saddlebag.

While at the Las Vegas Bikefest this weekend there was a vendor selling "Magic Mat's". Basically they adhere to many surfaces and then you can stick just about anything to it. I used one in the saddlebag to put my iTouch on it and it holds great. Keeps the iTouch out of the way. It would be perfect for the factory lowers if you keep an iPod in the glove box. It'll hold it in place and on the off chance the glove box pops open; the iPod will still be kept in place. I bet you could even mount it to the inside top of the glove box. I picked up a second one to hold a tire pressure receiver unit on the tank or maybe the inside of the windshield.

If you go to Amazon and do a search for "Magic Mat Black" it should bring them up. I liked the black best between it and the clear. There's a 3 pack for $18 or one for $6.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bob, I don't think it would be that difficult to the factory hard lowers on and off, more awkward, if that makes any sense. Just a couple bolts. I think it would be very easy to take off, harder to put on. However, I don't have the iPod jack since I use the XM.

Good idea on the magic matte, btw.

Have you tried your factory lowers in some 100+ weather yet? If so, how do they work?
 

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I haven't installed the lowers yet. I was waiting until I installed the cams but that looks like it won't happen anytime soon now. I might install them today since things are finally cooling of around here.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Be sure and post your views. There seem to be some real conflicting opinions of how well they work when temps get higher, I seem to remember complaints with temps as low as the mid 70s, and high 5s with temps in the mid 90s (Motorcycle Consumer News).

We just haven't any warm temps here when I have been home.
 

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Be sure and post your views. There seem to be some real conflicting opinions of how well they work when temps get higher, I seem to remember complaints with temps as low as the mid 70s, and high 5s with temps in the mid 90s (Motorcycle Consumer News).

We just haven't any warm temps here when I have been home.
I got my Cee Baileys a few weeks ago and been riding in temps from mid forties to mid seventies. The "winter" flectors hold too much heat for any weather I'm going to ride in, would be ok for sub-freezing temps or if the temps don't go above mid 40's on your ride home. The "summer" flectors should actually be the ones for most riders "winter" riding, they also give off a LOT of heat above 60F IMHO especially above 70F, your lower legs and feet get uncomfortably warm. I don't have the "bikini" flectors but my gut feeling is these should be the "summer" flectors and the summer flectors should be the "winter" ones. Don't get me wrong, these "flectors" do work but for me "as is" they block too much air and the adjustability option just doesn't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got my Cee Baileys a few weeks ago and been riding in temps from mid forties to mid seventies. The "winter" flectors hold too much heat for any weather I'm going to ride in, would be ok for sub-freezing temps or if the temps don't go above mid 40's on your ride home. The "summer" flectors should actually be the ones for most riders "winter" riding, they also give off a LOT of heat above 60F IMHO especially above 70F, your lower legs and feet get uncomfortably warm. I don't have the "bikini" flectors but my gut feeling is these should be the "summer" flectors and the summer flectors should be the "winter" ones. Don't get me wrong, these "flectors" do work but for me "as is" they block too much air and the adjustability option just doesn't help.
Interesting how different the lowers affect different riders. I used the original winter Flectors in a ride up to San Jose, mostly cool temps, but a couple hundred mikes over 90, and wasn't really bothered, although I was not in any stop and go traffic. Oh well, I guess everything is a combination of trial and error, and compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Jagular: I'm going to leave the iPod cord in the right saddlebag.

While at the Las Vegas Bikefest this weekend there was a vendor selling "Magic Mat's". Basically they adhere to many surfaces and then you can stick just about anything to it. I used one in the saddlebag to put my iTouch on it and it holds great. Keeps the iTouch out of the way. It would be perfect for the factory lowers if you keep an iPod in the glove box. It'll hold it in place and on the off chance the glove box pops open; the iPod will still be kept in place. I bet you could even mount it to the inside top of the glove box. I picked up a second one to hold a tire pressure receiver unit on the tank or maybe the inside of the windshield.

If you go to Amazon and do a search for "Magic Mat Black" it should bring them up. I liked the black best between it and the clear. There's a 3 pack for $18 or one for $6.
Bob, is this like velcro, or something different? I was going to get some velcro for my garage door opener, but maybe this is better?
 

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I find the lowers are fine on the right side, but still hot on the left. With a short inseam I find a lot of heat on front and side of my leg. I actually leave the door on the left side closed now and right slightly open to try and push air away. If open, after a few minutes it feels like a hair dryer blowing on the side of my leg, with the heat turned to high. Can someone tell me how they are mounted and which screws to undo? Are they sandwiched around crash bars? I want to try the bike without them. On the Tour the ipod and 12v are simply plugged into a connector at front of bike under the tank so a breeze to disconnect. IfI like it better simple enough to buy a new ipod-12v connector and zip tie or velcro somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I find the lowers are fine on the right side, but still hot on the left. With a short inseam I find a lot of heat on front and side of my leg. I actually leave the door on the left side closed now and right slightly open to try and push air away. If open, after a few minutes it feels like a hair dryer blowing on the side of my leg, with the heat turned to high. Can someone tell me how they are mounted and which screws to undo? Are they sandwiched around crash bars? I want to try the bike without them. On the Tour the ipod and 12v are simply plugged into a connector at front of bike under the tank so a breeze to disconnect. IfI like it better simple enough to buy a new ipod-12v connector and zip tie or velcro somewhere.
Which lowers?
 

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Bob, is this like velcro, or something different? I was going to get some velcro for my garage door opener, but maybe this is better?
I wouldn't say the Mat's are better. Just different. The difference is the Mat's don't require anything on the object to be held.

Probably just limited by imagination but my thought was for the factory lowers; the Mat's would keep things from bouncing around in the glove boxes. Also, since they aren't permanent, they can be moved around where needed. They are kept clean with water.
 
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