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Discussion Starter #1
So I changed the oil and the spark plugs and now when I start it up it "idles" from 200-400rpm for about 4 seconds then dies. Fortunately once it warms up it's fine but I have to use the fake choke (or the throttle lever or whatever it's called) which I've never had to use before unless it was snowing outside. It is also backfiring and I feel like there is a loss of power on the low end. I got the spark plugs and the oil from the Victory dealer. It does have a Lloyds programmer too but I haven't touched it in a long time. I know it isn't urgent because it does run and idle fine when it's warm, but I'd just like to find out whats going on with it. Any help is appreciated!
 

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Reverse your plug wires , your timing is probably off 180 degrees .
 

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How did you pull the plug wires. I bet you pulled a wire out of the metal connector

oil has nothing to do with the bad idle. Your PCV might have gone bad
 

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How did you pull the plug wires. I bet you pulled a wire out of the metal connector

oil has nothing to do with the bad idle. Your PCV might have gone bad
I was thinking the same about the wires. When they heat up from the motor it could be causing just enough expansion to make good contact again and the bike runs normal.
Another thought could be incorrect plug gap, same idea with the thermal expansion. It's a little more far fetched but still a possibility.
 

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Spark plug GAP seems to be the most BASIC element of this situation. Did you check the gap or did you simply pull them outta the container and slap them into the bike? Not certain about new plugs but in the old days (25+ years ago) it was fairly common that the plugs needed to be checked for CORRECT gap clearance before replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mechanics, 101...... Go back to the last thing you changed..
Well the reason why I can't do that is because one of the spark plugs fell apart once I pulled it out and looked at it.

Reverse your plug wires , your timing is probably off 180 degrees
I'll try that next because they were kind of rusted to the plugs themselves. Had to yank on them quite a bit to get them off.

I bet you pulled a wire out of the metal connector
If the timing isn't off then I'll just change them. Was kind of hoping for a quicker cheaper fix than that (like free) but the bike is worth the few dollars for spark plug wires I guess.

Thanks for the input everybody.
 

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Cracked plug insulator (ceramic) will arc out and cause a miss.
 

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Cracked plug insulator (ceramic) will arc out and cause a miss.'
I had that happen to me, Back in the last century, With a Honda Cb750, Put brand new plugs in, Started it up and it missed.. Pulled the plugs back out and one was black , Sure enough broken insulator on that plug.. Even with new plugs **** happens.
 

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you need new spark plug wires for sure. Get them from witchdoctor. The colored ones are cheaper price then what Vic wants for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Was that the old plug, Or the new plug that fell apart..??
Sorry it was the old plugs and all of it did come out, I just had to clean the rust out of the threads.

I did order new spark plug wires and they will be here in a few days.

Does anyone know the required gap for the spark plugs?
 

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.032 ......
 

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be careful not to drop the plug before installation, and over torquing plug will crack insulator as well. If your paying attention you can here them make a clicking noise if you crack the plug. Ive installed many doing tune ups and its a known failure point.
 

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Shop Manual Page for Plugs Put Up

To elaborate on what vindex said above, the gap has a range, .032 - .036".

NGK recommends adjusting no more than .008" for normal plugs, and to be very careful about messing with "fine wire" plugs (and not at all for "multi-ground plugs"); see http://www.ngk.com/learning-center/article/185/proper-gapping-instructions .

After asking a question, maybe half a year ago, about possibly adjusting the gap, and getting some answers, I decided not to even check it. Assuming that the protective cardboard sleeve that covers the threads and electrode isn't crushed or dented, I'd leave well enough alone. I put in iridium plugs over the winter, after c. 27,000 miles on my XCT; I used NGK DCPR6EIX 8196 (see http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9701 ), which are fine wire plugs. (I've put about 1,000 miles on so far this season, and everything seems fine.)

I followed the instructions for cleaning the well first, and a little anti-sieze, and also used a torque wrench (10.8 - 14.5 lb-ft), along with a deep-well socket that came with a rubber insert inside of it.

Having read one too many posts about plug wires that were butchered upon removal, I had also ordered over the winter new plug wires beforehand (the colorful red Vic ones, but it doesn't matter). I purchased a $2 plug-boot puller from my local Harbor Freight, only to discover that it won't fit underneath the boots, given the deep-well nature of the Vic engine. So I was glad that I ordered new wires, and used them, even though I think that the original wires/boots came out okay in my case (by grasping, twisting, and pulling).

FWIW and in case anyone's interested, I just scanned the relevant page from my 2012 shop manual, and put it up as a PDF page on my web site, here: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-cross-bikes-spark-plugs.pdf .
 
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