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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'd like to take the front cam tensioner out of my 2014 106 and exchange it with the front cam tensioner in my wife's 2014 106 to see if it corrects a noise noise that comes and goes withher front cylinder valve train.

Here's my question to those familiar with this.
Do I need to pull the camshaft drive cover and timing wheel and insure the front cylinder is on TDC or can I just pull both front cylinder cam chain tensioners and exchange mine with her's without worrying about where the cylinder is in it's valve timing ?

If I need it to be at TDC, does it need to be at TDC on compression?
Also
Will the dampener for the front cam chain tensioner come out with the tensioner or will I have to dig it out of there to inspect it?
Is it likely to leak, should I bother buying new sealing washers first?

Thanks

Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
I've read the section in the manual and still am not sure if the tensioners can be cheated out without setting the cam to TDC first.
 

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As long as you don't motor the engine you should be fine. If you do motor it or turn the motor over by hand you risk the chain jumping a tooth..therefore messing your timing up. I've pulled them out plenty of times using the same orginal gasket/ washer. There is also on rubber plug type deal inside the tensioner hole, it may or may not come out when you pull it. You can also pull the tensioner apart to inspect it by pulling the "plunger" outward away from the tensioner body.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies.
Think I have got it then. I have a couple of more questions that occurred to me when I read your post.

I don't intend to move the motor when they are out. Do I need to take any precautions to keep the motor from moving by itself once I remove them? Is there enough slack in the chain with the tensioners removed that the valve spring pressure could rotate the cam and cause it to skip a link if I removed the chain tensioner at just the wrong point in it's rotation?

Should I leave the bike in gear so that the crank isn't free to rotate?

Also if I pull the piston out of the tensioner to inspect it do I have to prime it in anyway when I put it back together? Are there wear specs in the manual?
Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.
 

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Joe I cannot help you but
G
O
O
D

L
U
C
K

Opening a machine is never an easy task ..... Dreading the day i have to do anyting like that ....
 

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you'll be fine. Just don't try and turn the motor over by hand or with the starter. Even if it for some reason the motor turned over by it self, it would be fine. There is still some tension left on the timing chain once you pull the tensioner out, so its not going to fall out of timing.

I never primed mine after taking them apart. Once you put them back in (like VJ said above) they will get pumped up once the bike starts back up. Unfortunately there isn't much in the manual for reason for rejection of them.
 

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Joe,
Pull the tensioner and hope the dampener comes out with it. If it doesn't it's pretty easy to get it out - just push needle nosed pliers in while closed, open the up once they're inside the dampener, and pull them out with the dampener. Don't try to grip the outside of the dampener because from my experience it will come apart. Also don't let anything turn in your motor and everything will go back together smoothly.
Note that chances are that the noise isn't coming from your tensioner and is coming from the lash adjusters. Try starting the engine and holding a pipe against the engine in several places (mainly near the tensioner and on the valve cover) while holding the other end to your ear. You will most likely find the noise is the loudest on the intake or exhaust side of your valve cover.
Also note that when you pull the tensioner you'll loose a tiny bit of oil and that you shouldn't have to worry about leaks after reinstalling the tensioner.
Lastly rather than starting another oil discussion I'll go as far as saying that straight synthetic oils drain off faster than conventional oils or blends so your oil choice can decrease or eliminate the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again for the many inputs. You guys have more than answered all my questions.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Life is good:)
 

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Well I still have questions. I was posting on the other board and could only get so far before we ran out of answers. So my motor noise comes and goes while the bike is running and not at idle. Where it is coming from was a question but what the noise sounded like was going to be more useful. Unfortunately the noise has not returned since our long road trip so recording it has not been possible. After much discussion with a mechanic at a shop we determined that oil pressure and changes in temp can lead to incorrect operation of the tensioners. I pulled mine and took a short video. Here is the link. As others have posted, how do you get them apart and is there supposed to be different amounts of movement between the front and rear. The parts fish shows them as the same part (3021517) however the front and rear cap or Plug are different (3021923) for the rear and (3021922) for the front. This might explain the different length of travel each lifter has. And for the life of me I can see no way to get the lifter out of the cap other than to pull them apart will most likely damage both parts if I do it. Maybe there is some fancy took for pressurizing them so the lifter pops out.

 
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