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Discussion Starter #1
I'm gonna get ready to take my old handle bars if and install the new extended handle bars hopefully I won't screw anything up or brake anything will give update later
 

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best put a blanket over your tank just as a precautionary measure...helps to have an extra pair of hands too , though I fitted my Burleigh Bars myself, had to pull on the front brake cable a bit to gain clearance.
I didn't break anything though, had to die-grind the location lugs off my switch-blocks and controls but.
 

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Well done fck up the Phillip screw in the kill switch the head strip so how do I get it out without screwing anything else
 

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Discussion Starter #4
IMG_20190902_112119469.jpg
Here's a pix
 

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One trick is to cut a groove in the top of the screw with a hacksaw (blade) or a dremel cutting wheel. Another is to get a hold of it with some sharp nosed vise grips. Of course you can drill it out. Seems like it must be soft metal. Just try not to mess up the threads. After you get it out; run a tap through the threads to clean them up.

You don't have a lot of room to work with so I suspect you will be drilling it out. Sometimes you can drill just deep enough to grab it with those vise grips to turn it a little at a time.

The key word for this project is patience and try not to get frustrated. Everyone who is a shade-tree mechanic has done this so you're in good company.
 

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I just got done swapping fuel pumps in my Mustang. Success! But it took me twice as long as I thought it would. Good thing I had that Harbor Freight motorcycle lift to lower and raise the tank back into place. That was the first time I did a fuel pump swap on a car. The swap was easy. Lower and raising it with the fuel pipe fighting me was a pain in the butt. Car starts right up now instead of having to crank for a while.

Mechanicin' can be frustrating but usually when it's all said and done; there's a good feeling of accomplishment.
 

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Well done fck up the Phillip screw in the kill switch the head strip so how do I get it out without screwing anything else
its probably not phillips but JIS, thats why they chew out, very common happening using phillips on jap bikes,
got an impact driver? use it...with force into whats left plus twisting force and a hit with a hammer should jar it loose.
No impact driver? ..worth investing in one....You could try hitting a phillips with a hammer, usually a few good taps before you even start to try to unscrew will loosen the thread.
Drilling out is a severe last option
 

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Ouch. Definitely a Philips and be sure head is fully seated. They can be a bit tight if not been loosened for a while. Or a prior owner/dealer mucking it up over torquing things.

Position makes it hard to get at, there are extractor bits for that. Bite into head and get it going. All you need to do is break the torque on it then it should just unscrew with your finger.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok finally got them on
I wound up drilling the screw and using a extractor broke the first then had to redrill it and using the next size bigger extractor and finally got it out
Used a grinder to make a slot to use a straight screwdriver
Just came back from a test ride what a difference the bars make
Now for my new problem my cruise does not work now the light comes on but when you set it it won't engage
The only thing I can think of is maybe I got the green and white plugs switched around on the right side

IMG_20190902_141817819.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
IMG_20190902_141830884.jpg
Another pix
 

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One thing to check on the cruise, especially since you were pulling wire and moving stuff, is to follow the wire harness coming from the cruise control along the right side and there should be a connector in the triple tree area. Sometimes a little tug can pull that apart enough to make the cruise stop working.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Will check that out tomorrow bbob
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looked in manual and couldn't find it anyone knows which way the green and white wires on the front brake goes I have the green wire closet to the handle and the white one close to the frame
I forgot which way they were when I took them off
2012 xr
 

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If you are talking about the two wires that go to the front brake switch on the brake lever, I doubt it makes any difference which way they attach. This is a simple switch that closes and opens the connection between these wires. Almost certainly what has happened is that the switch on your idle cable has become turned on all the time. You can test this by removing one wire from this switch although this switch is hard to access as it is along the right side of the backbone of the bike and is mostly hidden by the tank.

There is an adjustment process for the throttle and idle cables in the service manual which is supposed to be done and this will likely allow the cruise to work again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes vinish those are the wires I'm talking bout
The bars looks good on the bike thanks again for the bars
 

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Glad the bars work well for you. I have had the exact same cruise control issue as you when I have messed with changing bars. The problem is the idle cable adjustment. Follow the service manual instructions for adjusting this and your cruise control problem should disappear.
 
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