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I did a search but no luck.

I have a new to me 2012 CCT. I just cleaned and re-greased the clutch cable and noticed the barrels on my current cable have a black plastic sleeves. I'm wondering if the cable has been replaced. Does this sound like an OEM Clutch?

Thanks,

LB
 

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I did a search but no luck.

I have a new to me 2012 CCT. I just cleaned and re-greased the clutch cable and noticed the barrels on my current cable have a black plastic sleeves. I'm wondering if the cable has been replaced. Does this sound like an OEM Clutch?
Yes, that's the original equipment cable. If the previous owner kept the ends - just the ends and not the cable - cleaned and lubed, and you do the same, you should be OK. If you see any fraying of the cable next to the barrel, it's getting ready to break. If you want a superior cable with heftier ends, install a Barnett, you'll also get an easier pull too.
 

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Thanks RICZ. I suspected as much. I didn't see any fraying but it looked like it's been a while since last serviced.

How challenging of a DIY job is installing the Barnett? An easier pull is an attractive advantage. Plus, I like the idea of the fresh start.

LB
 

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Thanks RICZ. I suspected as much. I didn't see any fraying but it looked like it's been a while since last serviced.



How challenging of a DIY job is installing the Barnett? An easier pull is an attractive advantage. Plus, I like the idea of the fresh start.



LB
Most have a Barnett cable and it is smoother indeed, it is a tedious job but easy to do, i removed the tank coz that is the easiest way ...

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Yeah, it's best to remove the tank and have a buddy to help. It also helps to have the tank empty or near empty. Have lots of zip ties on hand. Like Andre said, it's not a hard job. It might take a couple hours.
 

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Here’s how I changed my cable: disconnect from ends, and cut zip ties. Tie kite string to handlebar end and pull slowly through fairing, then tie string to new cable and pull back through fairing. Re-connect ends, add zip ties, and adjust tension. 45-60 minutes and done.
 

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Here’s how I changed my cable: disconnect from ends, and cut zip ties. Tie kite string to handlebar end and pull slowly through fairing, then tie string to new cable and pull back through fairing. Re-connect ends, add zip ties, and adjust tension. 45-60 minutes and done.
That's the way I have done mine twice.:smile
 

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Yes, that's the original equipment cable. If the previous owner kept the ends - just the ends and not the cable - cleaned and lubed, and you do the same, you should be OK. If you see any fraying of the cable next to the barrel, it's getting ready to break. If you want a superior cable with heftier ends, install a Barnett, you'll also get an easier pull too.
My first clutch cable replacement I did was with a factory cable on my 2012 HighBall, and it had those small plastic sleeves. Second time around I went with the Barnett too from Witchdoctor's. One thing that led to that decision was the cable got better reviews, and you can also get the cable with the little bit of extra cable. I always thought when I did my first cable replacement it was just on the verge of being a little too tight tolerant. On the Barnett, I didn't mind that little extra 'bow' up by the ape hangers...
 

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I looked at the cable routing I don't see why removing tank would be needed on CCT. Hopefully the cable lasts a while. I do have Barnett cable if the stock fails. It does look like the ends are better built. I was told once buying a backup cable will prevent the first from failing. Worked so far on the other bike. :)
 

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I looked at the cable routing I don't see why removing tank would be needed on CCT. Hopefully the cable lasts a while. I do have Barnett cable if the stock fails. It does look like the ends are better built. I was told once buying a backup cable will prevent the first from failing. Worked so far on the other bike. :)
Go with a save your ride for the emergency repair.
 

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I looked at the cable routing I don't see why removing tank would be needed on CCT. Hopefully the cable lasts a while. I do have Barnett cable if the stock fails. It does look like the ends are better built. I was told once buying a backup cable will prevent the first from failing. Worked so far on the other bike. :)
Go with a save your ride for the on the road emergency repair.
 

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I looked at the cable routing I don't see why removing tank would be needed on CCT. Hopefully the cable lasts a while. I do have Barnett cable if the stock fails. It does look like the ends are better built. I was told once buying a backup cable will prevent the first from failing. Worked so far on the other bike. :)
let me tell you a trick I learned after my first clutch cable replacement on my HighBall.
Yes, the first time I replaced the clutch cable I pulled the gas tank and in the process snapped one of the fittings on that custom 'S' fuel line with locking ends. (Yes, that fuel line is expensive!)

I did see in my first experience replacing the cable it went through the front hole in the frame, ran up under the gas tank and up above the cylinders, bend down where it connected to the bracket with the 'L' shaped bend on the clutch cable connection down behind the engine.

Here's the trick, take several feet of parachute cord and secure it to the end up near the clutch lever. Then without removing the tank, pull the old cable out and let the parachute cord follow the old cable path below the tank, through the frame and above the heads, and down to the back of the engine. Attach the parachute cord to the clutch lever end and pull and feed it back through the path back up to the clutch lever. With a little finesse, you'll not have to mess with the gas tank unless you're dealing with a couple of tie-wraps you may need to clip...

This saved me a tone of frustration from the first time I replaced the clutch cable.

PB
 

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Boy, the Barnett was really heavy duty too! I guess they nylon sheathed the entire cable from the clutch lever lug, down to the other lug on the clutch side. I was really impressed by how much better quality the cable was than the Victory factory replacement cable. Thos Barnett folks really know their stuff. I had also heard the clutch basket replacement was better putting in a Barnett set of clutch plates and friction disks that the factory Victory replacement.
 
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