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2006 Vegas, 27k miles, clutch pulled all the way in 1st and when I give it gas it feels like it wants to roll forward and it will slightly, doesn’t jump but it will move forward, is my clutch shot? Holds power in all gears and doesn’t slip on the highway what so ever? Oil change? Maybe low on oil I believe I have to add a quart, anyone ever have this?
 

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Check the adjustments....when the bike is cold....first.....If that doesn't resolve it you MAY have an issue with the clutch itself but start simple....OBTW probably isn't the oil if you're using the correct type and it's not low on oil or some such......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m gonna adjust everything tomorrow I just checked and I am approx 1 QT low on oil, I have heard with wet clutches due to fiction some movement is ok when in 1st but I’m not gonna go off that and say it’s fine, on the highway cruising 5-6th even passing cars under load zero issues I wonder if it’s time for a oil change I think so
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea I adjusted it tonight actually I’m gonna see what happens tomorrow, it doesn’t grind make crazy noises or give me problems I just noticed the 1st gear creep today, it’s very little but still there
 

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Sounds as though its out of adjustment. Should have a little free play, but when pulled down should be no drag. Mine every once in awhile I can feel what feels like a slight creep. If it has that creep it is partially engaged and dragging, which will wear it out and glaze it. As for oil level, my XCT dont particularly like being full to very top of fill line. Will push some mist or what ever out breather and make a mess. My last 2 bikes have been same way, so I leave at about mid way between low and full.
 

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The clutch is normally engaged. It has a spring holding it in engagement. When you pull the clutch lever you are disengaging the clutch.

The way to know if the freeplay on the lever is correct is to get the bike fully warmed up. Put it in a high gear at low speed and turn the throttle (high load). Gradually squeeze the clutch lever and make sure it moves a bit before the clutch starts to slip. If it starts to disengage as soon as you start moving the lever, it's too tight. If you have to move it more than 1/4" or so before it starts to disengage, it's too loose.
 

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The clutch is normally engaged. It has a spring holding it in engagement. When you pull the clutch lever you are disengaging the clutch.

The way to know if the freeplay on the lever is correct is to get the bike fully warmed up. Put it in a high gear at low speed and turn the throttle (high load). Gradually squeeze the clutch lever and make sure it moves a bit before the clutch starts to slip. If it starts to disengage as soon as you start moving the lever, it's too tight. If you have to move it more than 1/4" or so before it starts to disengage, it's too loose.
while this method described makes a lot of sense and sounds like it would work great, it is not the method taught in the service manual. I am always reluctant to substitute without good reason my knowledge or the knowledge of another lay-person for the expertise developed by the motorcycle design/engineering experts as codified in the service manual. So this leads to the obvious question. Why is the method you recommend better than what is taught in the service manual for adjusting the clutch?
 

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2006 Vegas, 27k miles, clutch pulled all the way in 1st and when I give it gas it feels like it wants to roll forward and it will slightly, doesn’t jump but it will move forward, is my clutch shot? Holds power in all gears and doesn’t slip on the highway what so ever? Oil change? Maybe low on oil I believe I have to add a quart, anyone ever have this?
My 2010 Cross Country did that when the witchdoctor easy pull arm was installed. No matter how I adjusted the clutch it always felt like it wanted to run forward when in gear....I removed the easy pull and the problem went away....if you have one of those installed try removing it.

Ride Safe,

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the reply’s, I’m gonna adjust today it’s the stock arm, like I said doesn’t slip in any gear and seems to grab great, the lock for the adjuster I noticed was all the way at the bottom and not on top? Spoke to a trusted motorcycle repair shop by me and he stated a lot of the earlier victory’s did have a tight set up stock referring to the clutch arm on the primary side, I’m also running to Polaris today for oil change stuff so let’s see what happens
 

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19zippy88

first off. When you check oil is bike vertical. Screw dip stick in then out to get reading.

Never adjust clutch when bike is warm or hot. It has to be overnight Cold.
You want this for play in lever. Keep in mind the shop manual talks like you have been to school to lean the proseagers. So they leave out word cause they think you know it all ready
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bike is vertical. I’m changing oil in about a hour so I know it will be spot on, I believe whoever adjusted it had it way tight, the cable at the shift arm (primary side) was super tight with zero slack in cable
 

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while this method described makes a lot of sense and sounds like it would work great, it is not the method taught in the service manual. I am always reluctant to substitute without good reason my knowledge or the knowledge of another lay-person for the expertise developed by the motorcycle design/engineering experts as codified in the service manual. So this leads to the obvious question. Why is the method you recommend better than what is taught in the service manual for adjusting the clutch?
Did I say my method was better? Did I say the service manual was wrong?

I see the instructions in the service manual as a starting point and fine tune from there. It's my bike... I have to ride it... I developed a means to confirm that the clutch has adequate freeplay and exactly how much... because... it's hard to tell when doing a static adjustment exactly what is freeplay and when the arm is getting enough leverage to overcome the spring a bit.

You are free to adjust your clutch any way you like. I merely suggested a method to double check adjustment. I was unaware there were absolutes in clutch adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’ll try both way idc, I do know the oil was super cold when the creep was happening basically right when I fired the bike up, wonder if that had play in it
 

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Thick oil

Yes cold thick oil WILL make the clutch drag. Also if the engine is very hot it can drag more than normal also.
 

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19zippy88

first off. When you check oil is bike vertical. Screw dip stick in then out to get reading.

Never adjust clutch when bike is warm or hot. It has to be overnight Cold.
You want this for play in lever. Keep in mind the shop manual talks like you have been to school to lean the proseagers. So they leave out word cause they think you know it all ready
Wouldn't it be more important for the clutch adjustment to be correct when the bike is being ridden than when it is stone cold? Mine is usually hot when I ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I set the play about a dimes worth I’m gonna check weather permitting today, I’ll play with it hot and cold, keep in mind the oil was cold when the bike was creeping, when I held clutch in it didn’t move, only she revved and at that it didn’t jerk or lung, it was maybe half a inch of creep, maybe I’m over reatcing
 

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Wouldn't it be more important for the clutch adjustment to be correct when the bike is being ridden than when it is stone cold? Mine is usually hot when I ride.
We as rookie mechanics don't have the fine touch to adjust the clutch when its warm or hot. Clutch plates swell when riding and thats what makes them work. So when you do it cold the clutch will have the proper free play. Of course when your at a stop light or in rush hour traffic clutch will get hot and cause creeping. That's why you get in neutral as soon as you can.
Guys like H C have the touch or feel to get it right.
 
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