Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have almost 5000 miles on my 2012 CXT and little by little it seems that the friction zone keeps getting farther out toward the end of the clutch lever, I did have the 500 mile check up done and I have adjusted the clutch cable per instruction in the service manual. I dont seem to have any type of clutch slippage just that it engages when the clutch lever all the way out . Is this normal ?

I did work the clutch pretty hard on a Ride Like a Pro course a few months back, but it was like that before I took the class. Also took a 1500 mile trip to the mountains just last month riding two and all was fine. We ride two up almost all thetime.

Should I be concerned and take a trip to the dealer, or just keep on riding.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,002 Posts
Sounds like your dragging the clutch.
Only adjust your clutch when it has sat over night so it cold.
Readjust it you should have a 1/16th to a 1/8th one the silver end of the cable when you pull it out of the housing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Visionjohnny

I had adjusted it before by the book , I guess I wasn't leaving enough free play, pulling the cable out to adjust was easy .

I used a small flat head screwdriver I ground it down and measured it to be just a hair under 1/8 to use as a gage , loosen cable , stick new gage in and adjust to remove the slack .So for now on I will adjust it with my new measuring device , LOL.

Seriously thanks for the tip , sometimes things can be so smiple you over look them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
Yup what VJ said! Make sure you adjust by the book or you'll either have slippage or premature wear. Neither of these problems are good for your bike or your significant other...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
While we are talking about clutch problems I seem to have two issues…

First, when the bike is cold the clutch has a major surge in it. If you let it out just into the friction zone it will move the bike forward in equally spaced surges that are proportionate to the speed the bike is traveling. As the bike warms up this problem lessens but never goes away. Bike has done this since new.

Second, this thing has some major clutch drag even with the lever fully in. I can drive around a parking lot all day in first gear with the clutch pulled all the way in and the engine at idle. It comes to a stop easily if I use the brakes, but without them it would go forever. If I cut the engine it’s like I hit the brakes. I noticed this after maybe 3,000 miles and it seem to be getting worse. Maybe it’s been there since new and I just didn’t noticed it at first.

Neither of these seem right to me. I have played with the clutch cable adjustment, but it doesn’t make any difference at all. Old oil, fresh oil (Victory oil in the middle of the stick checked per manual), doesn’t make any difference.

Any thoughts?
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,002 Posts
While we are talking about clutch problems I seem to have two issues…

First, when the bike is cold the clutch has a major surge in it. If you let it out just into the friction zone it will move the bike forward in equally spaced surges that are proportionate to the speed the bike is traveling. As the bike warms up this problem lessens but never goes away. Bike has done this since new.

Second, this thing has some major clutch drag even with the lever fully in. I can drive around a parking lot all day in first gear with the clutch pulled all the way in and the engine at idle. It comes to a stop easily if I use the brakes, but without them it would go forever. If I cut the engine it’s like I hit the brakes. I noticed this after maybe 3,000 miles and it seem to be getting worse. Maybe it’s been there since new and I just didn’t noticed it at first.

Neither of these seem right to me. I have played with the clutch cable adjustment, but it doesn’t make any difference at all. Old oil, fresh oil (Victory oil in the middle of the stick checked per manual), doesn’t make any difference.

Any thoughts?
Bob read what I told dentdave and do the adjustment in the cold of morning and NEVER when bike is warm or hot.
Hold onto grip and grab black cable and pull. The silver shoulder end should come out of the clutch perch about a 1/8" loosen or tighten adjuster as needed
COLD is the key to adjusting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
Oh One Eyed Green Monster,

I cannot stress enough that the clutch cable adjustment has no effect on these issues. I have adjusted it from so loose that the friction zone was just off the handle to where it was so tight that it was like the lever was pulled in by ¼ the normal movement.

I just went down and checked the adjustment (bike has not moved in 8 hrs) and it is currently as you suggest… pull on the black part of the cable at the lever, about 1/8th of the silver end comes out.

Now, that being said… there is no logical reason that clutch adjustment would affect the surging problem. Nor is there a logical reason that having the clutch adjusted properly would cause there to be less clutch drag than if it was adjusted way over tight.

The best I can describe the surging issue… Pull lever in, drop into gear, slowly release until friction is felt … it should be smooth as a baby’s a$$. Instead I get widely spaced pulses of power like there are high spots in the clutch (for lack of a better term). The pulses get closer together as the bike picks up speed or if the RPMs are increased. If I release the clutch to leave from a stop the problem is not very apparent. When it gets me is if I need to feather the clutch to go real slow (like waiting for a light to turn green without putting my feet down). If I am at a stop I can let the clutch out just into the friction zone and the bike will move forward a couple of feet then stop (no moving the lever). Then I push the bike backwards (or forwards) a foot or two and it hits a high spot again and wants to move forward. I can bounce against that point while sitting at a light as if I am working the clutch lever, but without moving the lever at all.

Dealer’s response was “It’s normal.”

The clutch drag is easier to describe… Slow the bike down in first (or second) gear with the clutch full out until the RPMs are at idle. Pull the clutch full in and the bike just keeps going. Last weekend I cruised around the Publix parking lot for 3-4 laps without letting the clutch out, bike didn’t even slow down. The bike will even go up slight inclines like this. If you hit the brakes the clutch will slip and you can coast to a stop, if you rev the engine same thing happens, if you kill the engine it’s like you hit the brakes.

After the dealers response to the surging issue I didn’t even bring up the clutch drag. But now the problem seems to be getting worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
Beo,
I had the same problem as soon as the temp dropped under 50 until I read something on here. Someone (can't remember who) said to hold the clutch lever in for about 30 seconds after you start the bike and the surge will go away. I tried it, it worked but as it got colder I had to hold it in longer. When it's in the mid to low 30's I hold the lever in for 1-2 minutes and have zero surge.

The same person mentioned that the surging is caused by the clutch plates sticking together. Holding the lever in while the bike is running allows oil to get in between the plates which helps them operate as designed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Beo, your Not crazy, mine does the Exact same thing. At least as far as the surging your talking about. Nothing I or a buddy that has a '12 XC Tour does will make it any better or worse.
Amsoil vs Vic oil, full, half full, slightly low levels. It does it for both of us until they get a mile or two down the road. Always first time or two of cycling the clutch but as stated only when cold.

Here is a question, Why doesn't my buddy's new '12 Ness Vision do it. The insides of these bikes are the same. Don't say hydraulic vs cable cuz that isn't it either. Hydraulic doesn't go inside to the plates.

I'm with ya on this one Beo, watching this closely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
Clutch been hot?

Beobob sounds like you may have some clutch plates welded together. You may say no way I never run it hard,but to me it does not sound right. Has anybody done anyburn outs or dragstrip starts. Rev the thing hard then dump the clutch? Just some fun crazy expensive stuff that can %^&* up a clutch. I have worked on machines for years and yours does not sound right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Beo, your Not crazy, mine does the Exact same thing. At least as far as the surging your talking about. Nothing I or a buddy that has a '12 XC Tour does will make it any better or worse.
Amsoil vs Vic oil, full, half full, slightly low levels. It does it for both of us until they get a mile or two down the road. Always first time or two of cycling the clutch but as stated only when cold.

Here is a question, Why doesn't my buddy's new '12 Ness Vision do it. The insides of these bikes are the same. Don't say hydraulic vs cable cuz that isn't it either. Hydraulic doesn't go inside to the plates.

I'm with ya on this one Beo, watching this closely.
nope - not right...not on mine for either of the clutch issues - i gotta say that with such good low end t - i dont ride the clutch on rides - really just in and out...but i do a couple of friction zone RLAP exercises every time i roll out...and everything is peachy
...given all the previous posts on the subject, and being told what it does....this kind sounds like what a presumed spring loaded torque converter would do ..yes? - because of how new your machine is..thinner plates warped under heat...like an old mustang i had waaay back when
i say dealer is FOS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
Beobob sounds like you may have some clutch plates welded together. You may say no way I never run it hard,but to me it does not sound right. Has anybody done anyburn outs or dragstrip starts. Rev the thing hard then dump the clutch? Just some fun crazy expensive stuff that can %^&* up a clutch. I have worked on machines for years and yours does not sound right.
I do run her hard from time to time, but no burnouts, launches, or dumping the clutch. Just good hard acceleration getting onto the interstate and the like.

I have tried holding the clutch in at startup without any improvement.

Some would say that all machines have their idiosyncrasies and these issues I’m having are just the way this bike is.. deal with it. But to me it feels like a lemon, like something was missed by QC, something is wrong in the transmission. It's not like the bike is broken per se’… it still runs great, performs all the function I picked this bike for, and it’s still a lot of fun to ride. The problem is that every time I pull out of my driveway, every time I feather the clutch, every time I coast to a stop, I am FIRMLY reminded that it’s not 100% right either.

Frustrating when you know something isn't right and the company that built the machine is like "whatever" and you know they will never even try to make it right.

The laundry list of problems I’ve had, and continue to have, with this machine keeps growing. I was hoping that I could ride this bike for the next 10+ years (I’ve had my Jeep for 16 years) but I’m starting to wonder. I want something I can just ride the crap out of and enjoy every mile. If I could find something that really tickled my fancy and had the functionality of this bike I would probably just take the loss.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
this sounds like like warranty...along with whatever else ...Write a letter - a decent one - to the dealer - get a name and copy corporate - make sure you put the cc on both letters...can't hurt and it is cheap....this has worked for me a couple of times....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
Beo, your Not crazy, mine does the Exact same thing. At least as far as the surging your talking about.
I have always noticed than when engine is cold, and I am turning around in the garage under power, obviously very slowly, that I havr a surging as well. I heve not tried to fix it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
A buddy of mine suggested adding 1/2 a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase for 50 miles or so, then change the oil as usual. The idea is that this will clean the clutch and potentially improve things.

I did a search and couldn't find anything on using MMO on Victory motors.

Any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
????

I do not think it would hurt anything. It will help clean everything up. I would diffidently change the oil after 50 miles and try not to go much further than that. I put some SeaFoam in my service truck. It is a diesel and it was changing idle speed, up and down. It's a F550 with the 7.3 diesel. I ran it for a short period in the crankcase. It actually fixed the problem, they apparently have a problem with the PCV system getting dirty and it cleaned it up. So SeaFoam is good for fuel systems and other things like crankcases also. As far as curing a clutch that is damaged I personally doubt that MMO or SeaFoam will help,but who it might be worth a shot. It's a gamble.Good luck.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top