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Discussion Starter #1
I burned up the original clutch pack in under 3000 miles. We (me and my vic shop) blamed the EZ Pull Clutch thing. Got rid of it and put in a high performance Barnett Scorpion clutch. And in 1 week, less than 200 miles it is slipping again. I can be in 3 or 4 gear at 3000 RPM, and then roll on it to go get some giddy up. And, the engine just races to 4000 RPM and the bike lags and slowing tries to start pulling. So, its basically is blowing right thru the clutch.

Other than springs and alignment, what else could it be? Any ideas, why there isn't any "squeeze"?
 

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Is there free-play in the clutch?

Under load, squeeze the clutch just a little and let go... if the engine revs more and drops back, you clutch adjustment is too tight.
 

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If your the one adjusting the clutch you can only do it when over night cold.
You can NOT adjust the clutch when its warm or hot.
You should have no more then a 1/8" free play at the lever.
 

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It obviously wasn't the Easy Pull...:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The cable had some free play. So, I don't think that is the issue. Unless, the tension adjuster is some how faulty. Something, it allows free play up front, but some how keeps tension on the clutch arm on the back end.

With a mechanical clutch, there just not really many things to it. Unless there is something I don't know or understand about it. I see where Llyodz Motors sells a variable pressure plate to add more squeeze at the high end. Makes me think they might have used the wrong springs when they put in the Barnett Scorpion Clutch. And, it isn't squeezing down tight enough to give the proper engagement.

Any other ideas?
 

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This is just making sure things are right. What kind of oil are you using? Did you pre soak your clutch friction plates. And did a shop do the work?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is just making sure things are right. What kind of oil are you using? Did you pre soak your clutch friction plates. And did a shop do the work?
Amsoil 20/50w was used.
Not sure, if the pre-soaked the clutch.
My local Vicotry dealer did the work.

There's no way in less than 200 miles, we burned up another set of clutch plates, right?
 

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The clutch assembly may have a defect and that's why you lost the first clutch at 3000 miles. Is the bike still under warranty?
 

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Maybe check the cable to make sure it isn't binding? Disconnect at both ends and make sure the cable moves freely. I had a kink in the cable of my old 550 honda that my newbie ass didn't notice. Clutch was never fully engaged because of it. Ate the clutch right up!
 

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I burned up the original clutch pack in under 3000 miles. We (me and my vic shop) blamed the EZ Pull Clutch thing. Got rid of it and put in a high performance Barnett Scorpion clutch. And in 1 week, less than 200 miles it is slipping again. I can be in 3 or 4 gear at 3000 RPM, and then roll on it to go get some giddy up. And, the engine just races to 4000 RPM and the bike lags and slowing tries to start pulling. So, its basically is blowing right thru the clutch.

Other than springs and alignment, what else could it be? Any ideas, why there isn't any "squeeze"?
I had your exact same problem and fixed it in about 5 minutes by adding some free play to mine. Check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_iS2OutTxw
 

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The Barnett Scorpion comes with 4 different sets of clutch springs. I can tell you from experience if they installed the clutch with the long gold 42lb clutch springs that Barnett ships already in the clutch assembly....it will slip with a stock or stage I XC. Mine came with 42 ~ 58 ~ 65 and 82lb clutch springs.

Tech23
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Barnett Scorpion comes with 4 different sets of clutch springs. I can tell you from experience if they installed the clutch with the long gold 42lb clutch springs that Barnett ships already in the clutch assembly....it will slip with a stock or stage I XC. Mine came with 42 ~ 58 ~ 65 and 82lb clutch springs.

Tech23
This is actually what I think they did! But I will have to verify tomorrow. Which lb springs did you end up using? My bike has stag 1 tri-oval pipes with a PC5. So has a little more than just stock HP...
 

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D clean
This is actually what I think they did! But I will have to verify tomorrow. Which lb springs did you end up using? My bike has stag 1 tri-oval pipes with a PC5. So has a little more than just stock HP...
Makes me wonder if my Vegas 100 has had a beefier clutch fitted before I bought it...
Clutch effort was more than normal before I fitted an EasyClutch, now with the EC it feels like every other Vic clutch Ive tried, and I've tried a few in the dealers showroom.
So what was the clutch effort with these heavier springs like?
This EasyClutch is sweet but adjustment is now super critical, imm erring on the side of slack just to be safe, so at times if I'm stationary it can be hard to get nuetral, and theres only one turn of adjustment once its set that can mean the difference between freeplay and not enough. Thats six flats of thr hex nut.
Im a bit of a maintenance freak tho so I change oil before its due, and clean and moly lube the cable ends at the same time,check for clutch freeplay regularly. Just this morning I fanned the clutch lightly while accelerating just to make sure there was enough freeplay and I'm happy there is.:)
Tyre pressures too I like to check every week and the front usually needs a few pounds of air to bring it back up to 39.
Anyway I'm off for a ride.
 

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Wow, so many things could be the problem.

Having installed a set of Barnett friction plates in my Vegas, (regular ones not Scorpion) i can say that if the tech followed the Vic service manual for re-assembly and ignored the instructions in the Barnett pack, then he got the fibers and steel plates in the wrong order.

If he did not soak the fibers before assembly then problems will happen.

I did not know about the different springs in the Scorpion pack, so that could be suspect. I will channel Kevin Cross who once told me that the regular Vic "Green" spring should be plenty to hold a 100" motor with no extensive mods (big bore kit, etc.), more than that is just hand exercise.

You are already in bed with the dealer because you let them do the work, if you touch it now you own it. Don't mess with it unless you are ready to accept the fact that you might have to buy everything over again and do it yourself.
 

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I would have it back to the dealer so fast their heads would blow off ... I wouldn't be in a good mood either .
 

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This is actually what I think they did! But I will have to verify tomorrow. Which lb springs did you end up using? My bike has stag 1 tri-oval pipes with a PC5. So has a little more than just stock HP...
Currently I'm running the six short gold 58lb springs (348lbs) I'll likely swap out three of the 58's with three 51lb springs and stagger three 51lb and three 58lb springs for a total of 327lbs at my next oil change. I need to place a copper oil drain plug seal on the gear selector shaft anyway. I called Barnett and they sent me a set of 51lb springs N/C. I felt the jump between the 42lb and 58lb springs were too big of a jump. The stock diaphragm spring...to the best of my knowledge is rated at 135lbs. The problem is there is no way to correlate diaphragm spring pressure to coil spring pressure to get starting point. Oh, the Barnett clutch pack has one less clutch plate than the stocker. The clutch clutch hub is smaller in diameter than the stock clutch hub so each Barnett plate much more surface area. Also because of the Barnett clutch design (no access to the clutch hub nut) you lose the ability to lock the engine with the provisions under the timing cover. If you want to be able to lock the clutch assembly to torque the clutch hub nut you'll either need to fabricate or buy the clutch locking tool from Barnett. I got the feeling I was the guinea pig installing this clutch. The reason I say that is...how is it possible the 42lb springs installed in the clutch as delivered by Barnett wouldn't hold a stock bikes HP/torque. That just tells me they didn't test it. Before I installed the assembly I called them them and they told me the 42lb springs should be fine...not the case!

I think Victory uses cheap bottom shelf clutch components. The clutch cable is junk and even though it feels free when disconnected it binds when hooked up and has a load on it. Get the Barnett cable, lube the ends with the grease provided for the cable ends and shoot some Tri Flow cable lube through it before installing it. The cast pressure plate and diaphragm spring are also junk. Some pressure plates warp at the first sign of heat and it seems as though the diagram springs stiffen up with heat cycles too. Maybe that's why the diaphragm springs were not available for a while as Victory was looking for someone else to make the diaphragm spring for them. The fact that Victory was looking for another vendor to make the part screams they were having problems with the part. The Barnett clutch gets rid of all the problematic Fisher Price parts they installed at the factory.

Hope this helps.

Edit 8/12014: I removed the 58lb springs (x6=348lbs) and installed the set of six 51lb springs (=306lbs ~ 42lbs less than the setup above) to reduce the lever effort. The clutch came with complete sets of 42lb, 58lb, 65lb, and 82lb springs. I think Barnett could eliminate the 82 lb springs from this kit and include the 51lb springs instead of the 82's. When I called Barnett they did send me a set of 51lb springs N/C which was nice.

Edit 5/20/2014: This warning label was included with my Barnett Scorpion clutch assembly. The warning is for HD applications. I called about this warning label and Barnett told me not to use synthetic oil with their clutch. I was concerned because Victory oil is semi synthetic. They told me that would be OK...just don't use full synthetic. I just looked at a bottle of Formula Plus out in the garage...thanks to most manufacturers minimalistic labeling practices I really can't be certain if formula one is synthetic or not. It does say it's "Developed with a proprietary mineral base stock" so I suppose it's either a dino or possibly a semi synthetic blend?! No where does formula one say full synthetic on the bottle. I'm using Victory semi synthetic with no problems.

Tech23
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dealer said that the first tech guy used the wrong lighter springs on the barnett clutch. They put on the heavier springs and said its working now. They have always recommended Amsoil 20/50w.

I go to pick up the bike this afternoon. I'll ride it hard this weekend. ANd, see if I can tell if there is any slippage. I wonder how much am I going to be worried about it. Will this clutch last 5k, 10k, 20k? Or, should I just get over it, ride it hard until it is toast?

I'll ask to see if they can tell me exact which lb springs they used.
 
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