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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning everyone, I have been thinking about adding a Hyrdualic clutch to my 2011 cross country. I have some vicbagger bars on the bike, is there a kit that is still available to do this?
 

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if you can find one your going to need a longer line witch is the same as a brake line.
Number one trick is to bench bleed master cylinder before hooking line up to it.
 

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if you can find one your going to need a longer line witch is the same as a brake line.
Number one trick is to bench bleed master cylinder before hooking line up to it.
A longer line isn't necessarily needed. I just ran my hose down the left side of the frame instead of the right side. Fits perfectly.

And yes, bleed the thing before you mount it. Much easier that way; I did mine the hard way...
 

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Why are you wanting a hydraulic clutch? If it for a lighter pull, there are simpler and cheaper ways such as an E-Z Pull and a Barnett cable assembly. I've done that and those with hyd. clutches are amazed at how light my lever pull is. Like a 250 cc bike.
Hyd. can be difficult to adjust and cause clutch burn-out if not done right.
 

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Ricz, what did you put on your bike?
 

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Ricz, what did you put on your bike?
I placed an E-Z Pull I got from Witchdoctors onto the clutch pivot and a Barnett cable assembly. The result is a very light pull compared to the original. Makes this old guy a happy biker.
 

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Thanks I will look into it.
 

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Thanks I will look into it.
If you are going to do both, contact me about how I got the clutch sheath and cable to align at the lower end. Its import the cable comes out straight.
 

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If you are going to do both, contact me about how I got the clutch sheath and cable to align at the lower end. Its import the cable comes out straight.
How about posting your trick here for others with an EZ clutch to learn from... pretty please :)

G'day,

Vinish
 

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How about posting your trick here for others with an EZ clutch to learn from... pretty please :)
Oooh, ouch...stop twisting my arm, I'll do it.
The first two pics show the cable and sheath not aligning. The rest show them aligned. To achieve that, I placed washers between the bracket and the primary housing. In this case, under the forward bolt. Too easy!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry everyone for my lack of responding, but I have been away for work and on vacation and I could not sign in on my ipad for some reason. I was thinking that the hydraulic clutch might be better for long term use, I figured it was easier to adjust as well. If none of these are true I wont mess with it at all.
 

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What sort of adjustment are you talking about? My understanding is that a hydraulic clutch has no adjustment possible and, fortunately, no adjustment needed.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What sort of adjustment are you talking about? My understanding is that a hydraulic clutch has no adjustment possible and, fortunately, no adjustment needed.

G'day,

Vinish
it was mentioned that they were hard to adjust in an earlier post.
 

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I was working on a friend's XC with a hydraulic clutch conversion and the clutch was not completely releasing. I don't recall how I did it (so don't ask) but I found a way through improvising to get the pivot to seat. I do remember I pulled out the pivot and rotated it a notch, but I don't know what I did after that. I consider the hyd. clutch and the reverse more of a PITA than a benefit.
 

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Thanks RICZ,
I have an EZ clutch pull on its way from Witchdoctor.
 

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Thanks RICZ,
I have an EZ clutch pull on its way from Witchdoctor.
Order the Barnett cable assembly while you're at it and you will be amazed at the ease of the new lever pull. Worth every penny.
 
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