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I have read that lithium grease is best for clutch cable ends? Does this mean the spray lithium grease will work? I have also read to use a marine grease? which one or what should I use?
 

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Either is good as long as you keep the cable ends lubed and the cable adjusted correctly. You should never have a taught cable, always some slack. Se the manual re the proper adjustment. BTW, I use spray lithium grease.
 

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I have a sachet of ARP Moly assembly lube that I use on my cable ends after a thorough clean, also got a tube of Penrite Moly camshaft lube, and I mix that with it as well.
Also I clean, lube and check adjustment twice as often as recommended. Cos its a ten minute job at most. And I run an Easyclutch and Id like to prove that by overmaintaining my cable ends that itll last indefinitely.:)
 

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On the other forum Kevinx said stay away from lithium grease
 

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On the other forum Kevinx said stay away from lithium grease
1. Why?
2. Did he suggest a grease to use on the cable ends? Bacon grease maybe?:confused:
 

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Greasy

I use the Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Why, because I had a can of it in my shed and it is suppose to be good stuff. I have used it for years on bearings, etc. Stuff seems to work good, still clean it off the cable end and use fresh grease on the cable at every oil change and at least once in between oil changes.... I also went ahead and got a Barnett cable, and tried it along with the Easypull. Ended up taking the Easypull off, it just was to easy, seemed strange it was to easy. The Barnett cable allows the cable ends to move freely at each end compared to the stock Victory cable on my bike, the stock cable ends were made or attached solid to the cable so the ends would not pivot or rotate freely. Maybe the new Victory clutch cables are different now I do not know. :crzy:
 

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1. Why?
2. Did he suggest a grease to use on the cable ends? Bacon grease maybe?:confused:
Marine or synthetic was his recommendation.
 

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I use the Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Why, because I had a can of it in my shed and it is suppose to be good stuff. I have used it for years on bearings, etc. Stuff seems to work good, still clean it off the cable end and use fresh grease on the cable at every oil change and at least once in between oil changes.... I also went ahead and got a Barnett cable, and tried it along with the Easypull. Ended up taking the Easypull off, it just was to easy, seemed strange it was to easy. The Barnett cable allows the cable ends to move freely at each end compared to the stock Victory cable on my bike, the stock cable ends were made or attached solid to the cable so the ends would not pivot or rotate freely. Maybe the new Victory clutch cables are different now I do not know. :crzy:
I find this interesting because I have installed the EZ-Pull and have a Barnett cable waiting in the wings. Did the tank have to come off to install it? Any heads up you can give me? At 79, I will never complain about a clutch pull being too easy.:Dcheers
 

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Lithium wipes away to easily, and wads up where it is not used. It will also make a nasty goo in the cable housing. Stick with a good synthetic or amrine grease. Water repellent, and heavy body to stay where you put it.
 

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Lithium wipes away to easily, and wads up where it is not used. It will also make a nasty goo in the cable housing. Stick with a good synthetic or amrine grease. Water repellent, and heavy body to stay where you put it.
Aye, aye Captain! Good timing to get this info before I install my Barnett cable. I assume only the ends need lubing, right?
 

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RICZ

over on that other 3 letter forum a guy said he taped the new cable to the old and pulled it threw. I would use a zip tie am guessing he cleared everything. I would unhook the battery ground
 

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RICZ

over on that other 3 letter forum a guy said he taped the new cable to the old and pulled it threw. I would use a zip tie am guessing he cleared everything. I would unhook the battery ground
VJ, I am replacing the whole assembly, will that technique work for that?
 

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Been using this for a couple years now.:)
 

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Perhaps....:eek:
 

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Moly grease or Molybdenum di-sulphide is extremely slippery, hence its use in engine assembly particularly on the very vulnerable camshaft during initial break in (the first 20 mins)
Its also specified by ARP Racing Fasteners, makers of all high performance nuts n bolt that go in everything from a 14 second street car to a 4 second Top Fueller.
ARP specifies engine parts to be torqued using ARP Moly-grease as it reduces dramatically the friction of the threads which prevent nuts n bolts from attaining a correct torque value.
These are both facts that Im certain no engineer would dispute.
I use the best moly lube on the cable ends and it was already in my toolbox from other work.

The point not to miss is!
Most if not all lubes can hold dirt muck and **** thats in the air we ride through, our environment, the very air we breath is abrasive (thats why we have air filters on our bikes)
Hence the regular thorough cleaning of the cable ends prior to greasing!
Thats the secret (well actually its not)
You could very well use bacon fat provided you cleaned and relubed it every ride:)
Me..I prefer to use the very best lube and the possible overkill of cleaning and lubing twice as often as recommended.
 
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