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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a vertical crack that runs from the front axle nut down to the pinch bolt on front fork 'knuckle'. Took it to dealership and they said it should be fine....not to worry about replacing the fork tube assembly. They also said as long as it's holding torque then it should be fine. Sounds like that could be bad advice. Anybody have any feedback? 2006 Kingpin. 4000mi. No impact, never dropped. Had new tires put on by previous owner.
Also wondering if that Y shaped piece can be taken off and replaced individually (maybe purchased on ebay and separated) as the dealership says they do not sell that piece separately.

Thx..
Becky
 

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A photo would be helpful Becky. Also helpful to us and you is if we knew where you are. There just might be a forum member in your area that can help. The casting at the bottom of the tube is permanently attached. One way to arrest a crack is to drill a small hole at the terminus of it. That stops it from growing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm in Tucson Arizona.
And I'm brand new to this forum ...and I couldn't figure out how to upload a photo yet .
Best as I can describe it.... It's a hairline crack that goes from the 4 o'clock position on the axle down to the pinch bolt
 

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Does the crack go to the opposite side of the casting? If it does not, you should be OK. A quick and cheap fix might be welding the crack.
 

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When you have the wheel off, you can do a more thorough examination.
Looks like someone over torqued the pinch bolts. Torque specs are in the owners manual.
 

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Looks like someone over torqued the pinch bolts.
It sure does....
@rdpayette if you haven't already make sure the pinch bolts are at the right torque spec. No matter what the dealer said, I personally would be very bugged and nervous to ride with that damage.
 

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Pretty hard to tell off a computer screen what is going on there. Why not just find one on Ebay or at a junker that is in good shape and change it out?

That being a casting the crack is as likely to continue increasing in size as not. When you fracture a casting it's only guess which way the crack has radiated unless you determine it by dye penetrant inspection. This is a nondestructive test method that will only require taking the assembly to someone with a dye kit and the knowledge to use it properly and letting them test it. After cleaning you'll have your results in 45 minutes or so. Do not disturb the surface of the crack by brushing or grinding on it prior to taking it in as you will make the person doing th testings life much more difficult. (hell actually) That means no tracing, grinding or scraping on the crack surface etc because you will push metal into the micro fractures obscuring them making it very difficult to determine what is going on there for the guy performing the testing.

A good welding shop specializing in tig welding or machine shop should have a penetrant kit. Something like this: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Magnaflux-01-5970-48-Spotcheck-Penetrant-Inspection/dp/B01LXH4C72/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527268224&sr=8-2&keywords=penetrant+inspection[/ame] .

Obviously your going to loose some clamping force with that pillar cracked off . Do you need all that clamping force? Maybe not?

There is also a slight chance you could also have a leg with inferior metallurgy. Something got left out of the alloy mix or the process went badly. Not very common in todays manufacturing environment but something you really want to know about because if the casting process was poorly executed the other side will also fail eventually.

Penetrant inspection will answer all these questions rather quickly.

If the metal is good quality and the damage is just the result of over torquing it maybe possible to just weld it and remachine it.

A good way to find the type of welding shop you want to use for this is to stop by a local small airport that has a air frame shop and ask them for a recommendation. They will know who in the area has the skill set you need.
 

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With a toothpick can you feel how deep it is. Your wheel will not fall off. But is time the crack could get bigger. Look on ebay for a right side one. Your fork was used from 06 to 2010 kingpin and hammer used the same fork.
Didn't take you long to figured out how to post a photo. Good Going
 

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Craigb1960 is a member on the forum and lives in Tucson. He is pretty knowledgeable and perhaps he might be able to help out. You can send him a pm (Private Message).

As for me, riding a scoot has enough enherent risks. I try to avoid adding to them. Anything that has even a remote potential for loss of control adds to the risks.
 

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For me there'd always be that nagging little feeling in the back of my mind every time I went out for a ride. There's no way of telling what a good solid bump or impact would do to it. That uncertainty would take away from just enjoying myself. A fork like this would be at the welders tomorrow.
 

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New fork leg, be safe.

You only live once, fix it. Not worth it if you get in an accident. If you can not repair it have somebody else do it. Find you a fork leg, buy it. Personally I would try not to ride it unless that is all you have. If you have another way to get around use it until you get it fixed.
 
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My opinion is to replace it ...

Mind you only 50% is cracked, coz the fork has 2 pinch bolts ...

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 
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If you want to replace the fork leg, I have seen a few pop up on Victory Motorcycle buy sell trade on facebook. And at reasonable prices too.
If you don't have one, buy a torque wrench and tighten to spec. Grab a Harbor Freight 25% off coupon that's good this coming Monday and get a nice price break.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok....you guys have talked me into replacing the thing!
Went on youtube and looked at a video that pretty much shows how to replace. Strangely they did not use a torque wrench on the pinch bolts......so it made me question the video. And....I don't want to do something wrong and end up on the pavement later down the road.

The dealership said a new fork tube would be around $400. and $375. labor.
Sound right?
 
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