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Discussion Starter #1
Must've been when I had the bike up in the air this morning to undo the front axle, discovered I need a different axle....but then I went for a ride.
Did about a 40 mile ride then almost home the red check engine light comes on.
I stopped bike checked engine and it was still there:smile
So I fired up didn't get far and it came on again, I kept riding to home.
Then I checked battery connections, separated cleaned and tightened, check battery earth to engine was intact.
Checked oil even though oil light wasn't on.
Separated the smaller connection under the bike cleaned pins, dielectric grease on socket seals and back together.
Went for a test ride, by now starting to get dark and I noticed my headlight going out when I revved the bike up and red check engine coming on at same time.

Back home to workshop separated headlight shell.
I've got Crossroads VictoryHID system so one by one I separated each connection cleaned with spray carby cleaner the dielectric greased the seal and replaced.
Did all the headlight connections.
Test ride and light went out as I got onto the road.
Came back pulled rhs switchblock apart sprayed carby cleaner though killswitch and starter switch.
Oiled throttle cables while I was in there.
Reassembled and test ride light goes out soon as revs get to aground 2000rpm....vibes or power surge dunno???
So I got a bike I can't ride at night and it's night.
Haven't stopped to eat all day so gonna eat then go back inside headlight and separate clean and grease every Junction.
Electrical problems give me the shits!
Moreso when I probably caused it somehow!
 

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What is the fault code MbX?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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As a sample I had the following "check engine" alarm before

Error code;

0 652

5

Error Code 652 means Rear Cylinder Injector driven circuit short due to LOW battery voltage, last time,

sooooo please look up your error code in your display and post it... At least then you can see what it means?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As a sample I had the following "check engine" alarm before

Error code;

0 652

5

Error Code 652 means Rear Cylinder Injector driven circuit short due to LOW battery voltage, last time,

sooooo please look up your error code in your display and post it... At least then you can see what it means?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
My 2010 Vegas don't throw codes, it's a different speedo to yours, it needs to plug into digital wrench to be read.
Anyway I've found the problem I think.

Regulator is fried!!!
Put a meter on battery 13.5 volts drops to 12 starting then up to 14 then soon as I rev goes off my scale at 16 volts as the headlight trips out...

Seem to remember @half_crazy saying something about our stock regulators not liking the high revs of cammed bikes!
And just prior to the check engine coming on and the light going out, though it was daylight so I didn't know.
Just prior I'd been giving it some curry coming down the mountain and revs were right up there....
Coincidence I had bike on jack earlier.

Ok fellas what's the replacement regulator I need to get, one that'll handle bulk revs??
 

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I"d check the regulator before I started buying stuff personally. It's really not that hard to check...


Takes a few minutes to check the whole thing and then you'll KNOW if you have a regulator problem. While it's apart, I'd check the stator too.. again, only takes like 6 readings to see if it's shorted or whatnot.. you can easily check resistance a-b, b-c and a-c and then each one to a good ground on the bike.. If you really wanna be thorough you could check the output of the stator with the regulator disconnected and see if the voltage out of each is pretty close. My money is on the regulator being bad.. but before you go swapping parts you should check it first or you might end up buying stuff you dont' need and STILL have a problem.

One of the things (besides the regulator) that can cause that issue is a bad ground too. It sounds like your reg is fried.. but sometimes they fry because of the main ground being bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I"d check the regulator before I started buying stuff personally. It's really not that hard to check...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q

Takes a few minutes to check the whole thing and then you'll KNOW if you have a regulator problem. While it's apart, I'd check the stator too.. again, only takes like 6 readings to see if it's shorted or whatnot.. you can easily check resistance a-b, b-c and a-c and then each one to a good ground on the bike.. If you really wanna be thorough you could check the output of the stator with the regulator disconnected and see if the voltage out of each is pretty close. My money is on the regulator being bad.. but before you go swapping parts you should check it first or you might end up buying stuff you dont' need and STILL have a problem.

One of the things (besides the regulator) that can cause that issue is a bad ground too. It sounds like your reg is fried.. but sometimes they fry because of the main ground being bad.
Main ground being the lead from negative battery down to the engine case?
Looking on ebay there's no reference to the SH847

Entering Victory Regulator there's a Chinese one for $85
Called YHC-130
There's the Mosfet for $160
And a Rick's Hot Shot Series for around $250 Aust
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Main ground being the lead from negative battery down to the engine case?
Looking on ebay there's no reference to the SH847

Entering Victory Regulator there's a Chinese one for $85
Called YHC-130
There's the Mosfet for $160
And a Rick's Hot Shot Series for around $250 Aust
ok heres how things look this morning
There's a Mosfet FH020AA on ebay for $169.99, free post,..says its in Australia but with delivery by Thurs it looks suspiciously 'drop ship' oriental
Jack of Roadster Cycles claims theres 'cheap n nasty' versions of the above Mosfet.
Jack is on vacation till Aug 23 and back sending stuff out on 24,25, depending on his workload.
His series type SH847 Super Kit looks like the best option performance wise, if it wasnt for the delay waiting for him to get back and then the shipping time to me.

My other option local-ish Gosford Motorcycles can send me a Mosfet FH020AA for $299+ $50 for wiring plug kit..so $350

Think Ill take the best option of Jacks SH847
and try to pick up a used Harley unit to keep me on the road till Jacks arrives
 

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The short and long answer is.. pretty much ANY R/R will do if they are designed to handle the wattage of our system. The best thing is to find one that requires the least amount of recabling, IE the output from the stator will plug in and the 2 leads to the battery are of sufficient length. I found a generic (but better quality) R/R on ebay when I got the one for my son's bike.. I had to splice the ground wire with the existing one that was on the bike since the generic had a short cable.. but that really isn't that hard to do. Other than that.. if it has a 3 wire connection to the stator and a 12v output you're good to go. Unless you're getting a series type regulator I personally wouldn't spend 350 on just a replacement...
 

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Rick adds a couple of connectors and some wire and calls it a kit. Nice and easy for people who don't know what or how to do that themselves. (which you're not part of)

Nobody in Australia import Shindengen finished regulators?

Maybe these guys can put you on the right track. Seems to be only components but you'll never know until you check.

http://au.mouser.com/shindengen/
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The short and long answer is.. pretty much ANY R/R will do if they are designed to handle the wattage of our system. The best thing is to find one that requires the least amount of recabling, IE the output from the stator will plug in and the 2 leads to the battery are of sufficient length. I found a generic (but better quality) R/R on ebay when I got the one for my son's bike.. I had to splice the ground wire with the existing one that was on the bike since the generic had a short cable.. but that really isn't that hard to do. Other than that.. if it has a 3 wire connection to the stator and a 12v output you're good to go. Unless you're getting a series type regulator I personally wouldn't spend 350 on just a replacement...
I'm going with Jacks Series type upgrade, it's not 'just' a replacement.
It's an improvement on a bike I plan to keep forever.
I'm not a person who flicks their ride after a few years for the latest.
I've quite a bit of folding in my bike already so what's another $350 for the best,
I need a system that can see 6000rpm fairly regularly and some cheap copy of a Mosfet from eBay is gonna cost me the same money Australian as the superior product.
I've made contact with Jack of roadstercycle and he's sending me an SH847 as soon as he's back at work.

I've emailed the Rick's company twice through eBay and by reading their replies it's blatantly obvious they're a Chinese drop shipping setup, same with most of the MOSFET units on ebay.
Only viable trustworthy option in Oz costs me more than Jacks far superior Series unit.
Everything here is almost twice what you fellas pay, and I refuse to pay good money for sub standard stuff.

@53canuck, no mate no one here imports the SH847,
Your link goes nowhere.

I went to see my mate Yankee Bob and all he's got are Harley 2 wire.
Bob and John won't work on later HD bikes only the quality Flathead. Knuckle, Pan, Shovel, and Evo.
I shoulda took a pic of their workshop it's a trip back in time, next time...
So they got nothing 3 wire that I can use interim to stay in the road.
Gonna dust off the Honda C90 for a coupla weeks as it needs a good run anyway. It has a glorious 6 volt system.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nice @Motorbikerx, good choice

Did you open the VOG link I send you? Some really really good info on there, details and ideas for your install....

'nother R/R Tale... | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums


Andre using TaPaTaLk
Yeah mate, thanks, most of it is above my intellect,
being electrical, not mechanical, or body and paint.

But I soaked up what I could and made my decision to go with the best, not some cheap ass ebay copy from Godnose where!
Or high priced but quicker arriving MOSFET shunt type, admittedly improved shunt type but shunt nonetheless.
Jacks SH847 is an improvement. an upgrade that will go the distance, be easier on the rest of my electrics and possibly free up a poofteenth more Power!
My Vegas is a keeper and Im happy to spend what's needed to go the distance.
Waiting....I'm getting good at:smile

Been interesting surveying USA ebay, opens up a world of parts, albeit dearer plus shipping.... But available:smile
Bought some strip style LED front turn signals to wrap around my upper fork tubes on my chunky new front end too, cheap as chips! (cheap as fries don't sound right!)
Plus I bought some cheap ass Chinese chrome adapters in case I decide to utilise my original Vegas turn signals,
Maybe both!
I'm sure my electrics will handle it:grin
 

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I still didn't figure out what i will use for the indicator lights on the forks too... Got any link to the light and bracket you ordered ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I still didn't figure out what i will use for the indicator lights on the forks too... Got any link to the light and bracket you ordered ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
Yeah mate, the LEDs, Much cheaper than the same product from other places
LED 52mm-58mm Fork Turn Signal Light Smoked Lens For Hammer&Kingpin&Motorcycle | eBay

And the brackets, I ordered chrome but they have em in black....and cheap as!

Pair Motorcycle Chrome Turn Signal Mounting Brackets Fork Clamps Ear 30-45mm | eBay

While I'm at it this is the Kingpin fender I bought
06 Polaris Victory Kingpin front fender | eBay

And an El cheap Chinese fender, in stainless, great value!
Probably made by some poor kid in a sweatshop somewhere but they do give em rice.
Quite well made and adaptable to any forks really, you couldn't make it for $21 and that shipping included!

Motorcycle Modified Stainless Steel Front Mud Guards Splash Guard for CM
 
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