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Discussion Starter #1
My cruise control is a dealer add-on for my '12 Kingpin. A couple days ago we had a big storm roll through Arkansas which dropped over 3" of rain in one day. I ride every day all year so naturally I rode in the monsoon. I park my bike in my detached garge every night. That night it dropped to 16 degrees and was 24 degrees in my garage. Some of my switches were froze stiff that next morning on my way to work, couldn't use blinkers etc. When things thawed out, I turned on my cruise control, the red light lit up on the ON/OFF button and when I pressed SET...nothing. It didn't kick on nor did the indicator light on my speedo light up. As if I didn't hit the switch at all. I tried several times and cruise control does not activate. Surely Victory builds these things good enough to ride all year right??? Is there a fuse somewhere I can check that may have blown or are we looking at something that fried. Bike is still under warranty but not sure if the add-ons carry the same warranty. Any help will be appreciated.
 

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You may have to take the switch apart and let it dry really good then put some electric grease in there to stop it from happening again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That may be a good preventative measure down the road and I appreciate the input. Does anybody have any clue as to where I need to look to solve the current problem, fuses, modules...or dealer? Man I hate the dealer. :mad:
 

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That may be a good preventative measure down the road and I appreciate the input. Does anybody have any clue as to where I need to look to solve the current problem, fuses, modules...or dealer? Man I hate the dealer. :mad:
Just as TNXR said... the switch is the problem and needs to be dried out and serviced. This has been an ongoing problem with Victory cruise controls... no they do not perform when wet. If I were you, and I was, I would get a heat gun to thaw things a little before I took off in the AM... doesn't take much and then you would have full function of all the switches; plus you could dry out the cruise switch... I finally took mine totally apart and sealed everything in plastic as I put it back together... melted plastic not baggies.
 

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DSC_0001.jpg I would use a hair dryer to dry the connections out, then this summer when it is warm I would spray contact cleaner into the connections. Meaning wire harness and so forth. Rain or salt you might be riding in starts corrosion on the pins, male or female mating surfaces. After a short time no continuity or flow of voltage can be acquired.
Also 1. brake switches
2. clutch switch
3. all these are in series as to let the ECM know that none is at fault for the cruise to have a GO signal...so you might want to check to make sure these are working correct too..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The clutch and brake switch ohms good and both already had electic grease on the connections. I took the cruise switch apart and it didn't look wet but I used a blow dryer on it anyway. I put the bike up on a stand and got it up to 40, no cruise control. It mentions pin D on the connector to the module, which one is pin D? and do I need to take the throttle housing apart to get into those connectors as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I pulled the connector off the module and I did see some green corrosion at one end of the connector. I wasn't sure which wires to test since there are a bunch of them there. I put electric grease on the pins and up in the holes on the connector. Got the bike back up to 40mph on the stand and still no cruise. So I guess we're down to the throttle safety switch which I need help determining which is pin D or something with the cruise is fried?
Those of you that have experienced this problem, did any of you have to have parts replaced?

I do appreciate ya'll helping me diagnose my bike. I'd much rather work on my bike than let the dealer do it. I'll show my bike much more love and attention to detail than they will and I enjoy learning...which I couldn't do so well without you guys.
 

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The clutch and brake switch ohms good and both already had electic grease on the connections. I took the cruise switch apart and it didn't look wet but I used a blow dryer on it anyway. I put the bike up on a stand and got it up to 40, no cruise control. It mentions pin D on the connector to the module, which one is pin D? and do I need to take the throttle housing apart to get into those connectors as well?
NEVER NEVER run bike on any stand. You will only be asking for big trouble.

is there power at the idle cable where the two wires conect to the magnet
 

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Discussion Starter #9
NEVER NEVER run bike on any stand. You will only be asking for big trouble.

is there power at the idle cable where the two wires conect to the magnet
I understand running the bike on the stand is not the best idea but certain situations I have to0 (checking cruise is not one of em...just lazy) adjusting my belt is next to impossible without running on the stand. My belt moves back and forth on the rear pulley so I have to run it while I adjust to keep it in the middle before tightening down...I think my pulley is warped.

I'm sorry, not sure where you're talking about. I'm a bit green when it comes to bikes, especially Victory. I don't know where the idle cable is, or where the two wires connect to the magnet...what magnet? :confused:
 

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DSC_0003.jpg

DSC_0004.jpg This is for future reference, you can print it out and save it. The check engine light may or may "not" be illuminated to alert the rider of a switch fault. So you could have a fault that will not let the ECM reset. Digital wrench software with scanner is used by the dealer to trouble shoot. DSC_0002.jpg
 

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Yes
It's only done it twice. Both times is when I hit the wrong thing. It is easily done when your not looking or use to where they are. Remember I have 2 other touring bikes that have cruise and the controls are in different locations so it is easy for me to hit the wrong thing.
It takes 2 seconds for the cc to get activated once it is turned on. In other words you have to turn it on wait 2 seconds before hitting set. The controls are very sensitive. You can hit the brake and release the cc and then hit resume or decelerate and it will go back to the original cruise speed.
I do not think there is anything wrong as long as I do it right it does just fine. It does have slag in it that I will figure out how to remove. I know the manual says there are no adjustments, it's there I just have to find it.
Later in the summer when all the projects are out of the way I will check it out more thoroughly and get the cc to activate without any slag/delay.
I need to get the slag out of the Goldwing to. Neither is that bad but I would like to have it like my Ultra. Hit the button and your cc grabs at the speed your are running. My Ultra had it for a while until I adjusted it out.

This just reminded me of something. When I did my +2 Bars I removed the cc controls to get it out of the way. Since then it hasn't done it.
Maybe the plugs are not seated good. There's 2
After dealing with this intermittent cruise problem and at 22000 miles, it has been determined that the problem was in the throttle push cable. It was binding slightly. It was replaced and I notice that the throttle action is smoother. Rode it about 50 miles and no problems. Only time and miles will determine if this was truly the problem. Wish me luck !!!!

this is from other forum members that had trouble.
 

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and more::::
1 Mined turned out to be the throttle cable adjustments. A buddy of mine has had 3 Vic's and said he could get it.

2 He got it on the First shot. No problem since, about 4000 miles and 8 months ago, including winter here in PA
3 Same with mine, throttle cable adjustment. I'd suggest that first, then go onto the switches. It can be a "bear" when it is an intermittent problem
4 You know it takes it 3 to 5 seconds to come ready before it will set when you turn it on?
5 Also check at the throttle body plate where the cable is secured (right side, just above and behind the cheese wedge) with two screws on either side. If one or both come loose, it can play havoc with your throttle and cruise.
still searching for more..thumb upthumb upthumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the help, I do have power on pin D with and without the throttle closed...power all the time. Have battery voltage on light blue/pink also. Throttle safety swith?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took apart the control housing at the throttle grip looking for the throttle safety switch, followed the cable back to the throttle body, not seeing this switch. Anybody know the location?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I found the throttle safety switch under the tank. Disconnected it, ohmed the part in line with the cable, OL with open throttle and contenuity closed throttle. Put electric grease on it, test drove it, I never had to wait at all for cruise to activate but I went ahead and turned it on 2 minutes before pressing SET, nothing. No cruise. I honestly don't think its my cables. I tightened them up a couple months ago when there was a recall on loose cable nuts. Not to mention I used cruise control on my way to work the very morning the storm with monsoon rains came. Didn't work after my bike got rained on real hard. I hate to do it because I'm sure they're going to refuse warranty work and charge me but I reckon I'll take her into the dealer.
 

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Did you disconnect the battery for thirty to see if that would clear a fault? try that see what happens, but if it has a fault that won't clear the dealer will have to do it..:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you disconnect the battery for thirty to see if that would clear a fault? try that see what happens, but if it has a fault that won't clear the dealer will have to do it..:mad:
No I didn't, I'll try that when I get home from work. Thanks gibson
 

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Fuse ? wac Nevermind, you said you were getting the power light to activate.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Fuse ? wac Nevermind, you said you were getting the power light to activate.
Yeah, I checked fuses after I tested all the switches and the connector on the module. Shoul've checked fuses first since that would be the easiest check but none the less, they're all good.

What has me scratching my head is the diagnostic procedure when suspecting the throttle safety switch has me testing pin D on the module connector for power. Says power should only be there when throttle is closed but I have power there with open throttle, yet my throttle safety switch passes the ohm check. :confused: I'm not feeling the warm fuzzies on this one.
 
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