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Discussion Starter #1
Today my cruise control stopped working. While travelling at a constant speed in 5th gear at about 55 mph, I pressed the "on" button. I got the momentary green flash of the cruise icon on the dash like normal. I then pressed the "set" button and nothing happened. The green cruise icon did not light up and the cruise did not engage.

Last Saturday I pivoted the bars upwards a little bit by loosening the lower handlebar pinch bolts and rotating the bars upwards but the cruise worked after that during a Sunday ride but today, the cruise would not work. Nothing else seems out of order.

Any ideas on what could be wrong or how to diagnose this problem would be appreciated.
 

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With the moving of the handlebar I would start at the throttle. You'll have two cables going into it to control the throttle and cruise. Make sure they're still connected.

If those are good go behind the right cheese wedge and check the same cables there.
 

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On the right side of your gas tank towards the front there's an inline switch on your throttle cable. Remove both of the wires from the switch, tape them separately and go for a ride. You have a very high percentage chance your cruise control will now function normally again.

You do not need to remove the tank. You may only need to lift it up an inch or so. With the bike on the side stand and you looking on the right side under the tank, you should see the wires and the switch. The switch is designed to cancel cruise when you roll the throttle backwards to slow the bike. Your clutch, front brake or your rear brake will still function normally to cancel your cruise.

I removed and taped up these wires about 20K miles ago and all continues to function well with my cruise control. If you really want to replace the switch I think it's under $25. But it may be prone to fail again unless the replacement switch is upgraded and/or sealed from the original one that came on my 2012 CCT.
 

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Double check yer switch positions at yer clutch lever. Ya may have moved one of the Cherry switches by accident when ya raised yer bars. Or, even accidently disconnected one.
 

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On the right side of your gas tank towards the front there's an inline switch on your throttle cable. Remove both of the wires from the switch, tape them separately and go for a ride. You have a very high percentage chance your cruise control will now function normally again.

You do not need to remove the tank. You may only need to lift it up an inch or so. With the bike on the side stand and you looking on the right side under the tank, you should see the wires and the switch. The switch is designed to cancel cruise when you roll the throttle backwards to slow the bike. Your clutch, front brake or your rear brake will still function normally to cancel your cruise.

I removed and taped up these wires about 20K miles ago and all continues to function well with my cruise control. If you really want to replace the switch I think it's under $25. But it may be prone to fail again unless the replacement switch is upgraded and/or sealed from the original one that came on my 2012 CCT.

This was the solution to my problems with cruise. On my bike, every time that "switch" got wet, either from giving the bike a bath or a rain storm, my cruise would not set. It seemed to take forever to dry out. In my case I just removed one of the wires. Down side is that I can't cancel cruise by pushing the throttle forward so now I just tap my break leaver.

The switch is integrated into the cable as far as I can tell, however. So I believe you'd have to switch out that cable.
 

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Now I have to go look at my cable. I can not roll throttle forward with cruise on...

Not to hijack but when you hit the dec button is that supposed to completely release throttle? I learned not to hit that button.
 

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Now I have to go look at my cable. I can not roll throttle forward with cruise on...

Not to hijack but when you hit the dec button is that supposed to completely release throttle? I learned not to hit that button.
No...it stands for decrease I believe. Thats what mine does when i hit it. In 1 or 2 mph increments I believe

No..its s
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pressing the "Dec" button on my bikes decreases the cruise setting by about 1 mph. Depending on your bikes speed, the cruise setting, and the slope of the road, this might result in a sudden and large decrease in speed and then the cruise will try to catch up. The Victory cruise control is not the best tuned in the world. Sort of like their auto-cancelling turn signals. They usually work fine but once in a while for no discernible reason, they do not cancel after a turn.

Anyway, back to my cruise control problem.... I tugged, wiggled, and pushed and pulled on the idle and throttle cables today before a ride and this fixed the problem I had with the cruise not setting. I think, as someone pointed out, the one of these two cables with the switch on it was not properly in place or adjusted. I will let this go for a while and see if the problem returns before trying to find a more definite fix.
 

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A long lasting fix is two fold:

1. disconnect those two wires and tape them up separately
2. Squirt a shot of contact cleaner on the hand brake lever switch

You'll be good for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A long lasting fix is two fold:

1. disconnect those two wires and tape them up separately
2. Squirt a shot of contact cleaner on the hand brake lever switch

You'll be good for a long time.
That would seem to be a fix only at the cost of eliminating the throttle roll off cruise cancel feature. This is a feature I like. On the highway or higher speed non-highway where I have the cruise engaged, I prefer to not press the brake to cancel the cruise since this flashes the brake lights and can cause a bit of havoc to the vehicles behind me which are often other bikes. I lead a lot of small to medium size groups on rides.

The problem is clearly in the throttle/idle cable switch. More specifically, it is in the adjustment of this switch and/or the position/tightness of the idle cable. Before I took the step of permanently eliminating the throttle roll off cruise cancel feature, I would plan to monkey around with the adjustments on these cables.
 

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No...it stands for decrease I believe. Thats what mine does when i hit it. In 1 or 2 mph increments I believe
That's what I thought but it is same as hitting brake, throttle snaps off. Not cool at 70 MPH. Lol
 

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That's what I thought but it is same as hitting brake, throttle snaps off. Not cool at 70 MPH. Lol
Then something is wrong.

The DEC should work just like ACC function, just opposite.
 

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That switch is the one weak link in my CCT cruise control as well but I hated it. I rest my hands on the grips on long trips and bumps in the road cause my hands to disengage the cruise. Was glad it stopped working. I unplugged it and have never had an issue since. It will likely continue to give you grief over time. I was told by the vic tech that if it was his he would disconnect it because he sees alot problems with them
 

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Then something is wrong.

The DEC should work just like ACC function, just opposite.
Crap. That's what I thought. Thanks.
My bad. Decel not decrease. Ps- rode my newly tuned magnum 10 hours today to my folks. Strong crosswinds, 4 hours of light but steady rain and temps from 48 to 68. Performed like a dream! Passed everyone easily in 5th
 

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My hand brake micro switch wasn't activating the brake lights today but it was disengaging the cruise. A quick shot into the switch with some CRC Contact Cleaner and all is well again. The first time that happened, I ordered a new switch. I need to remember to service the switch more often as it seems to be susceptible to getting dirty.

Like Reelmin, I've never heard a respected tech unofficially suggest replacing the inline throttle roll back cruise control switch. It's simply a known weak link/failure item. But it can also be replaced and hopefully the replacement switch is of better quality than the original one. Mine lasted over 5 years of service, which IMHO, is a very poor service life. I've had similar switches on old FIAT cars that were still working fine after 25 years. If throttle roll off cruise disengagement is important to you, the only option is to replace the switch.

My throttle cables were adjusted 48K miles ago by Rylan Vos when he installed a Lloyds 1/4 turn throttle ring. Once the throttle cables are adjusted correctly, I'm here to report they'll be fine for a very long time. I've replaced my handlebars twice in that 48K mile span and they're still perfectly adjusted. Therefore since disconnecting the switch allowed the cruise to function, the throttle cable adjustment 'may' be correct.
 

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It would make sense to me that rolling forward on the throttle would turn off the cruise but not activate the brake lights.

I'll have to try mine. I always cut it off by the button or tapping the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My clutch lever microswitch is a little sticky. If I tighten the two tiny screws to the point where I think they should be tightened, the plunger in the microswitch will not pop back out after it has been depressed. I would like to lubricate this plunger. I don't think the microswitch can be disassembled. The two halves appear to be glued together. Does anyone have advice on a suitable lubricant to use and should I just apply this to the portions of the plunger that are visible?
 
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