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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone happen to know (or have measured) the current draw of the clock on an XC(T)? Just curious about the parasitic (AKA "vampire") draw on the battery.
 

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my clock shots off and on with the key and never gave it much though seeing how its in the gage cluster.
Can't be much I think
 

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You'll have your answer in plenty of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You'll have your answer in plenty of time.
You had to say that, huh? See if I buy any more lay-down license-plate brackets from you...
 

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You had to say that, huh? See if I buy any more lay-down license-plate brackets from you...
I couldn't think of anything else to tell him. I have an analog digital watch that purports to get 10 years out of one tiny disc battery and this guy is worried about the current his clock draws?!? I wish that was my only problem.:crzy:
 

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Not much. I have a volt meter connected to mine, which reads in 10ths. It might drop a tenth or two over 30 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rick, that was actually pretty clever (although: groan).

I have a touch of OCD, nothing major, and was just wondering if anyone knew the actual current draw when the bike's otherwise "off." You know, 50ma? 10ma? I'm thinking of adding another device with a very minor parasitic draw (30 - 50ma), and I was just wondering how that compared to the clock.

If I never learn the answer, I'll get over it. Heck, I'm over it already.:)
 

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Anyone happen to know (or have measured) the current draw of the clock on an XC(T)? Just curious about the parasitic (AKA "vampire") draw on the battery.
I use a Battery tender if bike is parked for a week or more. I use the 12V power outlet in fairing as it is hot even when bike is turned off. (10A Fuse protected) I use battery Tender Adapter CIG Lighter 56-1141. Just plug it in and forget it till the next time you ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I use a Battery tender if bike is parked for a week or more. I use the 12V power outlet in fairing as it is hot even when bike is turned off. (10A Fuse protected) I use battery Tender Adapter CIG Lighter 56-1141. Just plug it in and forget it till the next time you ride.
Thanks, Grog. I already use a smart charger, too, so this is more of an away-from-home type of question. Actually, I'm not too concerned, just curious. But thanks, anyway.
 

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I use a Battery tender if bike is parked for a week or more. I use the 12V power outlet in fairing as it is hot even when bike is turned off. (10A Fuse protected) I use battery Tender Adapter CIG Lighter 56-1141. Just plug it in and forget it till the next time you ride.
I cant offer you loads of info on ours bike as ive only owned my for 1 month and its been sitting in a garage because of winter.. But, in the automotive world, you should only see 25ma max or you will have battery problems. A clock shouldnt use much of that at all. Its usually other electronics such as radio and ecm electronics that may draw more.
kee in mind that these batteries are much smaller than car batteries so that 25ma standard we used might be less on bikes
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I cant offer you loads of info on ours bike as ive only owned my for 1 month and its been sitting in a garage because of winter.. But, in the automotive world, you should only see 25ma max or you will have battery problems. A clock shouldnt use much of that at all. Its usually other electronics such as radio and ecm electronics that may draw more.
kee in mind that these batteries are much smaller than car batteries so that 25ma standard we used might be less on bikes
Wingnut: very useful info -- thanks.

I am thinking about adding a device that will always be on, drawing 30ma when the bike's off. At home, this will not be a problem, because I always use a smart charger, even in daily use in the summer, not just in the winter. (I have it wall-mounted, next to where I part the bike in the garage. And to make matters stupid-easy, I added a Powerlet socket through my left side cover, and changed the end of the charger's cord to a male Powerlet plug, so all I have to do when I park is pick the plug up off the floor and stick it in the socket. Been doing this sort of thing for several bikes now.)

So, my concern is when I ride away from home, which I do for maybe three or four week-long trips per year. You've given me some hard numbers to think about. I had figured that if adding 30ma was, say, less than half of what the existing parasitic draw on the bike was, than it wouldn't be a big deal (conservative engineering and all that). Yours are the first hard numbers I've read on this subject, so I appreciate that.

If I just disconnect the ground on the battery, stick an ammeter in series between that ground cable and the battery terminal, am I correct that that will tell me the stock parasitic current draw? I've done a lot of voltage measuring in my time, but I'm not really up on current measurement.
 

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you are correct about how to place the ammeter on the bike to test but do one more thing. Keep the meter in place for a few minutes and recheck. You need to do this because when you reconnect the meter after disconnecting the battery, some computers or radios go into a self check/ reset mode which wakes up and runs for a bit so the initial reading may be higher than the typical reading at rest. That's why you need to wait a few minutes. Try it and see
 

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Discussion Starter #13
you are correct about how to place the ammeter on the bike to test but do one more thing. Keep the meter in place for a few minutes and recheck. You need to do this because when you reconnect the meter after disconnecting the battery, some computers or radios go into a self check/ reset mode which wakes up and runs for a bit so the initial reading may be higher than the typical reading at rest. That's why you need to wait a few minutes. Try it and see
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to get around to this next week, and report back.
 
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