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Discussion Starter #1
Dark Side tires for the XC - is there a consensus on what to buy? & Why "run flat"?

I'm looking to do this next Friday, so I thought I would check with the gang and see what you guys are running these days.

Thanks! ~Norm
 

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Many folks say runflats are better because they have a stronger sidewall, and others will say to stay away from them. If you're on Facebook, there is a Darkside group which talks about all aspects of darksiding.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/rollindarkside/
 

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I'm currently running a Bridgestone Driveguard run flat 195/55/16 that matches the height of an OEM rear tire.

On the front I'm running a Bridgestone Battlax BT45 Motorcycle Tire which is a rear motorcycle tire (MT).

This combination has served me well as long as I keep the air pressure up where it should be. Different people will like different air pressure, especially on the rear, but I like it pretty close to what the OEM should be; about 40 psi front and rear. This gives me a nice sure-footed ride. YMMV, FWIW, JMHO.

I definitely recommend a TPMS system which are very affordable these days.

Tire preferences change because tire manufacturers in all their wisdom discontinue tires all the time; even highly liked ones. They are usually replaced with a newer better and of course; more expensive model though.

For a long time the Dunlop Winter Sport with its soft top layer of tread giving a nice sticky feel and the tire being a 175 wide put it at about what the stock tire was but they stopped making those and people branched out to other, wider, run flat tires and liked them just as much getting better mileage out of them.

I think there's a Commander tire that people are saying they get 20k miles or more out of. For a lot of people; that negates the reason for running a CT but then there's still that run flat safety feature a lot of people, me included, have really come to like. Especially on the back which is harder to get at on a trip which means it tends to be neglected more. Another good reason for the TPMS.
 

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For the dark side guys, some Interesting stuff about winter tires on summer roads...

https://youtu.be/Lrz14n4vVkQ

EDIT:
The brake test results if the video are:

Winter & Summer tire brake distance on summer roads

Bridgestone Blizzak WS80
Brake test 1: 127.7 ft
Brake test 2: 134.2 ft
Brake test 3: 134.9 ft

Yokohama Geolander G95
Brake test 1: 123 ft
Brake test 2: 124 ft
Brake test 3: 126 ft

So in worst case scenario it is 10 ft more braking distance on a winter tire comparison to a summer tire on a warm road surface

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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sidecars only

unless your hacking running car tyres illegal in some states that can void your insurance coverage makes NO sense to me, but of course its your choice!!
 

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unless your hacking running car tyres illegal in some states that can void your insurance coverage makes NO sense to me, but of course its your choice!!
I've heard people say that before only to find out it was wishful thinking on the part of certain riders. If the tires were illegal on a motorcycle then they have to be illegal and non-insurable on a car.

Please provide a link to one state and one place where they say running darkside is illegal and one insurance company that says they won't pay for a bike involved in a crash if they are running a darkside tire. They would have to prove the tire itself was responsible for the crash or at least contributed to it. So far, to my knowledge, no one has proven this myth to be true.
 

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Bbob the video basical said the winter tire when it got warm would not as fast as a summer tire.

I'm with you on what states say you can't run a CT or what insurance company says you can't run a CT. Someone would have to prove that the CT was the reason for the crash.
26K out of my CT and yes I could of rode another 5K for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hope you linked to the right tire, because I just followed your link and ordered it :) Thanks for the info and I'm about to go order a TPMS.


I'm currently running a Bridgestone Driveguard run flat 195/55/16 that matches the height of an OEM rear tire.

On the front I'm running a Bridgestone Battlax BT45 Motorcycle Tire which is a rear motorcycle tire (MT).

This combination has served me well as long as I keep the air pressure up where it should be. Different people will like different air pressure, especially on the rear, but I like it pretty close to what the OEM should be; about 40 psi front and rear. This gives me a nice sure-footed ride. YMMV, FWIW, JMHO.

I definitely recommend a TPMS system which are very affordable these days.

Tire preferences change because tire manufacturers in all their wisdom discontinue tires all the time; even highly liked ones. They are usually replaced with a newer better and of course; more expensive model though.

For a long time the Dunlop Winter Sport with its soft top layer of tread giving a nice sticky feel and the tire being a 175 wide put it at about what the stock tire was but they stopped making those and people branched out to other, wider, run flat tires and liked them just as much getting better mileage out of them.

I think there's a Commander tire that people are saying they get 20k miles or more out of. For a lot of people; that negates the reason for running a CT but then there's still that run flat safety feature a lot of people, me included, have really come to like. Especially on the back which is harder to get at on a trip which means it tends to be neglected more. Another good reason for the TPMS.
 

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I hope you linked to the right tire, because I just followed your link and ordered it :) Thanks for the info and I'm about to go order a TPMS.
Well, I also sent you a link via PM to do some research on your own, but if you have the same good luck as I have with mine then all should be well.

All we can do is give the best info we can and let the reader decide for themselves.

Cheers and Regards. :)
 

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I tried to watch that but that guy is waaaaaay too long-winded.

Can you tell us in one sentence what he said?
EDIT, i put the results in the original post... Just for info...

I skipped to the end of the video, end the end result is, winter tires on warm summer roads have a longer stopping distance that other tires....

Because the compound is made softer for LOW TEMPERATURES, and that surprised me, coz you would think if it is softer it would have more grip, but not for winter tires...

Anyway I think dark side is super cool...

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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I'm currently running a Bridgestone Driveguard run flat 195/55/16 that matches the height of an OEM rear tire.

On the front I'm running a Bridgestone Battlax BT45 Motorcycle Tire which is a rear motorcycle tire (MT).

I concur. I'm currently on my second or third DriveGuard. I've used others, but this one has been my favorite so far. Contrary to what others experience, I've never got over 20k on a car tire. I've worn them out as quickly as 8 or 10k. I've settled on 24 psi to get the smoothest ride and most even wear.

Why RunFlat? Because about a month ago I rode home 50 miles on a flat tire after I picked up a 1.5" piece of razor blade that put a slit in the tire to big to plug. Worked like a champ. Honestly, I didn't believe my TPMS when it was telling me my tire had 4 lbs in it at 70mph. I slowed down anyway, and pulled over. It did get worse once all of the air was gone but I was able to ride it comfortably at 50mph on the way home...but I had to slow down quite a bit on curves. The tire showed no signs of abuse from riding with no air. I honestly believe I could have done 100 miles if necessary.

I also use the Battlax on the front. I have for about 4 years, I guess. I'm not in love with this tire. It has always been a little squirly for me in the first two or three thousand miles. But after that, it tends to ride ok. On my bike, it does scallop on the edges but I only feel it in slow parking lot maneuvers.

I get about 20k out of both of these tires - and I ride about 20k a year...so I'm only changing tires once a year which is nice.

TPMS...I've had the Doran for about 3 or 4 years and would easily recommend it. It has performed well in tons of rain, hot and cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got out on the bike for 30 miles or so today, mind you it's rather chilly for long rides right now in Maine :)

Once I had a few miles on the bike I pretty much was able to forget it was a CT (car tire). The fellow who helped me rode it and couldn't tell at all because he doesn't know the bike, but he also rides a bagger.

I went with 24psi as suggested by skullsessions. In the spring I'll play around with pressure and air in the bike as well, but right now I'm rating this as a 5 Stars :)

Oh and the TPMS is stupidly cheap and everyone should have one!

Thanks for all the input!
 

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I ran several
CTs but went back to MTs. Two reasons:
1. At low speeds on unleveled terrain they can get a bit unstable. Like an intersection where the asphalt is depressed. This can make for an embarrassing episode.
2. On the twisties, the geometry makes it necessary to lean the bike further for the same corner. Proof is, I scrape a lot with a CT, hardly ever with an E4 or E3. Twisties are important.
 

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blind!!

the 2007 hammer i tested had older squarish dunrocks on it, you could feel the abrupt transition, my 2013 hammer with OE tyres was much smoother + the night dragons on it feel very sport bike like!! anyone saying you can't tell a car tyre is brainwashing their brain trained!!! IMO!!! if you like it fine but i call BS here
 

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I ran several
CTs but went back to MTs. Two reasons:
1. At low speeds on unleveled terrain they can get a bit unstable. Like an intersection where the asphalt is depressed. This can make for an embarrassing episode.
2. On the twisties, the geometry makes it necessary to lean the bike further for the same corner. Proof is, I scrape a lot with a CT, hardly ever with an E4 or E3. Twisties are important.
the 2007 hammer i tested had older squarish dunrocks on it, you could feel the abrupt transition, my 2013 hammer with OE tyres was much smoother + the night dragons on it feel very sport bike like!! anyone saying you can't tell a car tyre is brainwashing their brain trained!!! IMO!!! if you like it fine but i call BS here
These two posts appear to contradict each other. I realize we are talking opinions here and not verifiable facts but that's kinda what these forums run on.

In one the person says they scrape the boards more with the CT and the other says the corner is felt more meaning the back of the bike is raised when going over into a lean so that would mean the boards would scrape less; not more.

Maybe I just got lucky, picked the right tires so far, and run the best psi for those tires because I don't feel any difference going into a lean with a CT vs a MT on my XC but my XC is a heavy bike. Even more so with the heavy engine protector and heavy gauge steel sissy bar and my fat ass.

Contrast that to a Softail I had, which was much lighter of course as was I at the time, and I did feel that hard corner feeling when going into a lean and I did feel all the irregularities of high and low on the road. On my XC it doesn't feel any different in that respect than my KP with MT's on it.

While out riding on my XC yesterday I remembered the added benefit of having more rubber on the road with the CT which translates to better braking traction of the rear tire so with the other added benefit of being a run flat; it's a safer tire.

So there we go. Three different opinions seeing and feeling very different results. The one variable is the actual tire brand, model, and size and tire pressure. It would take 3 non biased riders doing a blind riding test to really know if these things are in the head of us opinion makers or do we really feel what we think we feel. The blind folded riders would be on the bikes before removing their blindfolds then filmed on a closed course riding two identical XC's with different tires (CT and MT). Until then; I would take all opinions, including mine, with a grain of salt and decide for yourself.
 

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I don't understand 27 psi. Its not enough air to keep tire sealed to the rim. It make look like you have good contact with the pavement but what you really have is the edge of the tires with more contact.
I'm on my second CT the first one went 26 thousand and I found a shop willing to put on another one. Yes I could of gone another 5 thousand but the time is right. I really don't think for the most part a CT is better then a MC tire. But the ride and braking along with the cornering are good and the price is right
 

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These two posts appear to contradict each other. I realize we are talking opinions here and not verifiable facts but that's kinda what these forums run on.

In one the person says they scrape the boards more with the CT and the other says the corner is felt more meaning the back of the bike is raised when going over into a lean so that would mean the boards would scrape less; not more.

Maybe I just got lucky, picked the right tires so far, and run the best psi for those tires because I don't feel any difference going into a lean with a CT vs a MT on my XC but my XC is a heavy bike. Even more so with the heavy engine protector and heavy gauge steel sissy bar and my fat ass.

Contrast that to a Softail I had, which was much lighter of course as was I at the time, and I did feel that hard corner feeling when going into a lean and I did feel all the irregularities of high and low on the road. On my XC it doesn't feel any different in that respect than my KP with MT's on it.

While out riding on my XC yesterday I remembered the added benefit of having more rubber on the road with the CT which translates to better braking traction of the rear tire so with the other added benefit of being a run flat; it's a safer tire.

So there we go. Three different opinions seeing and feeling very different results. The one variable is the actual tire brand, model, and size and tire pressure. It would take 3 non biased riders doing a blind riding test to really know if these things are in the head of us opinion makers or do we really feel what we think we feel. The blind folded riders would be on the bikes before removing their blindfolds then filmed on a closed course riding two identical XC's with different tires (CT and MT). Until then; I would take all opinions, including mine, with a grain of salt and decide for yourself.
Don't know, but I ran 4 CTs out,, and at least as many MTs on my XCT. Those were my observations. I only run MTs now.
 

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Don't know, but I ran 4 CTs out,, and at least as many MTs on my XCT. Those were my observations. I only run MTs now.
Your opinion is highly valued. I'm pretty sure no one else on this forum has as many miles on their X-bike as you do. If there are; it isn't many.
 
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